How do you guys anneal your cases

I use the drill ,torch , socket method with cold water.

Tested it on a few dud cases at first , got my technique down.

If you are patient and have decent eyes it works well.

I did play with lights on/off/low etc...

Now I time and watch in my shops bright light, my ammo seems to work for me.
 
I'm currently experimenting with molten salts (potassium nitrate / saltpeter).
I have designed that setup from a small Lee Production Pot and a shelf made from two big washers and three machine bolts.





Salt is added in the center and allowed to melt. I stop when liquid level is just under the top shelf.
Once salt is melted, I stabilize heat at about 50 degrees over the melting point with a high-temp lead thermometer.
DEPRIMED brass is placed upside down in the liquid salt and timed for correct temp with Tempilaq just above the salt level.
Once Tempilaq melts, i use this time for all the other brass of same caliber in that session.
Brass is simply tossed in a pail of cold water; just in case any salt remains on the brass, it will be dissolved in the water.
Care is to to be observed: this is molten salt so choose a very stable support, dry brass and NO dangling power cord please!
PP.
 
Keithjohn said:
I like the set up from 308BAR , this is somthing I might try . I assume the barbecue motor is a set speed and you had to play with the flame setting to get proper temp , am I missing about the torch positioning , I thought they would be set to do both sides at once
I see you have them pass one side at a time . Was this because it is easier or better ?
Click to expand...

The bbq motor is a fixed speed and you're correct the flame could determine the temperature and the amount of time it is in the flame. I have multiple position for the torches so i can also adjust the way the base is exposed to the flame. Since the brass is in constant motion, if the second piece brass enters the flame before the first piece of brass exits the first torch it could create a flame shadow since the case does not rotate thurs lessening the heat for one side of the brass for a split second.
 
I have been annealing my brass for over 40 years the same way was taught by my father .I simply turn the brass over a propane torch flame with my fingers and when it gets too hot to hold I lay it down on a cloth.
Paul Mathews of BPCR fame actually described the same method i one of his books.
It's dead dog simple and it works!:p
Cat
 
I use the propane torch and socket in a drill.
Approx 6 seconds per 308 case. Aim at the mouth of the case. When line is just below neck drop case and load another one.
 
Gunneegoogoo said:
I have 750 only, and seems to work well.

The 650/750 difference doesn't seem to matter much.
Click to expand...

This matter a whole lot... depending on where you apply and what you are infering when the stuff flashes off.

I have annealed a very wide range of 308 cases in all manner of condition, brand and thickness.... have never needed to go over 4.5secs without some serious damage caused.

The problem is a time has no real bearing on anything... you have to look at the temp exposed to, location and then the proper dwell for the condition of the necks which can vary a huge amount.

I strongly suggest all that want to anneal to use some form of temp indicator. Colour and "glow" do not work for consistent annealing.

Jerry
 
So 650 or 750 Jerry??

The "art and science" article suggests 750....it seems to be the best written and justified of all the stuff I've read on this voodoo science....

I agree fully on the temp indicator. Glowing, hot fingers, time.....not for me.
 
Keithjohn said:
Who sells the Benchsource annealer, X reload is out of stock , anywhere else in Canada ?
Click to expand...

I also ordered directly from the manufacturer. Nobody in Canada had any in stock (X reload,Mystic). Called Bench Source and it was shipped the next day. Got it a couple of weeks ago and have a bunch of Lapua brass annealed and loaded (.308 Win) to try tomorrow.
 
So I have the 650 what suggestions on where to apply ? And is it suggested if the necks are in worse condition to go hotter or what
I thought same temp for everything?
 
Same temp for all. There's no such thing as "a little annealing" or "a lot of annealing". There's only "not annealing" if you're not hot enough, "annealing" if you get it right, and "ruining/FUBAR" if you heat it too much.

From what I know the inside of the neck is always the right answer, otherwise the flame scorches the tempilaq and it's useless....

I suppose you could put a lower tempilaq, 450 or 550, on the body, as a test to ensure you're not overheating the body, but this is confusing enough already.

-J.
 
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