Lee loadmaster
- Thread starter john92awd
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i used the bullet feed on my 9mm works like a charm .first i deprime then tumble clean .make sure flash hole is not plugged then hand prime . then i run it thru my pro 1000 ,if u have a lee that is the way to do it
The RCBS bullet feed die would work great if you had an automated bullet feeder setup. It does use up a station resulting in losing a place for factory crimp die. Not mandatory to use FCD anyway and I bet the RCBS bullet feed would add a bit of speed.
The Lee bullet feeder thingy looks like it might add an unnecessary layer of fiddle farting around, but I've not used it so I can't offer anything but an unsubstantiated internet opinion. FWIW.
I sure don't disagree with the case feeder idea. I'm starting to look at options for using one on my Dillon. It would avoid me having to shift my right hand off the lever and vastly speed things up. It would also leave my attention free to focus on hand placing ONLY the bullet which would be easy when I'm not trying to do two things that need watching at once. So bullet placing alone would speed up. My time between pulls should be able to reduce down to about a third of what it is presently due to needing both hands to place casings and bullets.
But I would still maintain that if one has to run the brass through ANY secondary steps then it's a waste of time. You may be finding that even with the second run through it's fast thanks to the case feeder. But imagine how fast it would be if you didn't need any double handling of the casings. A true handle once, pull once per round. You'd likely almost double your production per hour.
A note for those with the Lee 1000 progressive or other setups that might be using the "J" shaped "ski slope" primer rail found on the 1000.
I found that ANY oil in the guide track would make the primers stick and misfeed. I found that out when I picked up and put the odd spilled primer back into the tray via a hole in the cover drilled for just that. The trace oils on my skin from working around the press got on the primers or the oil on the press that got on them when they skipped off the metal manages to pollute the track and the result is nasty misfeeding and squashed primers.
Breaking things down and cleaning the plastic with brake cleaner or scrubbing clean with an old toothbrush and strong detergent brought back trouble free operation.
I see that the Loadmaster uses a sloping track as well but not quite in the same "J" shape. If anyone is having any issues with the feed then similarly cleaning the track so it's squeaky clean might help. Certainly can't hurt.
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it's amazing how many people don't know enough to put O-rings on the column on the 1000 or to raise the back end up by 15 degrees by sticking a bunch of washers under there- it's been well discussed on here- those are 2 cures for your primer feed problems on the 1000
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The case feeder is really the way to go IMHO
I bought a Loadmaster from Henry at BudgetShooterSupply.
I have to say that I love it. It only takes a little bit of aptitude to get it running smoothly. The cases feed, decap, prime etc. Sure a few times there have been issues, I've learned what to keep an eye on.
I think there is some brilliance to how it's engineered and I like that. Look at the $15 case feeder. Does the damn job, 5 pieces of dumb plastic.
The whole Loadmaster setup is equivalent to just a case feeder for Hornady or Dillon. Not to say those aren't great platforms as well.
I have to say that I love it. It only takes a little bit of aptitude to get it running smoothly. The cases feed, decap, prime etc. Sure a few times there have been issues, I've learned what to keep an eye on.
I think there is some brilliance to how it's engineered and I like that. Look at the $15 case feeder. Does the damn job, 5 pieces of dumb plastic.
The whole Loadmaster setup is equivalent to just a case feeder for Hornady or Dillon. Not to say those aren't great platforms as well.
My experience as well. I love my Loadmasters (have two of them) and they work great but the bullet feeder accessory just doesn't cut it. Plus I use lead bullets almost exlusively and the lube just goops up the bullet feed system. There's just not enough of an advantage over hand feeding the bullets to be bothered with it.
twoicebergs
Regular
My Loadmaster worked very well until I wore it out! Well actually there are a few trouble spots to watch for and fix before you keep going and get frustrated! The primer feeder and mostly the primer plunger is the biggest potential problem.
Once it is set up it works very well. It isn't hard to set up either. The feeder needs to be clean and free of any dirt or primer residue. As mentioned, do not oil or grease it. You can treat it with armour-all or nu-finish, but it must be wiped off.
The shell plate needs very minor lubrication on the spindle and the advance rod. Too much and powder sticks creating timing problems.
You will find the turret locking screw will always come loose, especially with 9mm due to press vibration. The shell plate thumb bolt will also loosen off, even with the O-ring installed. You need these to be tight to ensure proper primer depth seating.
Now to deal with the problem child. Lots of You-tube videos, but most of the fixes don't really address the problem. As i said, I wore mine out! 12,000+ rounds and it really didn't prime properly for the last 4,000 or so. What I found was the primer plunger was angling out radially which caused tipped primers and crescents (smiley faces). Nothing was wrong with the alignment or carrier, it was the plastic piece that holds/guides the primer pin. There is a small spring that sits under the primer pin that creates pressure against the plastic edge of the guide. As it wears the pin angles further out until it starts to give small problems, occasionally tipped primers that fall off, or those that go in 90* off axis. As it gets worse the smiley faces show up and the priming can be a royal PITA. If you let the shell float outward at that station, results can be satisfactory but it will get worse. If you use an alignment die in your turret, the problem just became a show stopper!
The plastic parts (feeder ramp) is cheap and should be replaced when problems start showing up. I chose to NOT put the spring back under the primer pin to prevent or hopefully delay the problem from coming back. I have made another 1,000 rounds in the past week with perfect results.
Overall it works very well, but it can be frustrating when you don't know what is wrong. All of the other brands have their issues as well, but the 650XL with accessories is almost triple the price. Many people seem to forget this is a progressive press. If you only want to do one or 2 stages at a time, then use a simpler press.
Once it is set up it works very well. It isn't hard to set up either. The feeder needs to be clean and free of any dirt or primer residue. As mentioned, do not oil or grease it. You can treat it with armour-all or nu-finish, but it must be wiped off.
The shell plate needs very minor lubrication on the spindle and the advance rod. Too much and powder sticks creating timing problems.
You will find the turret locking screw will always come loose, especially with 9mm due to press vibration. The shell plate thumb bolt will also loosen off, even with the O-ring installed. You need these to be tight to ensure proper primer depth seating.
Now to deal with the problem child. Lots of You-tube videos, but most of the fixes don't really address the problem. As i said, I wore mine out! 12,000+ rounds and it really didn't prime properly for the last 4,000 or so. What I found was the primer plunger was angling out radially which caused tipped primers and crescents (smiley faces). Nothing was wrong with the alignment or carrier, it was the plastic piece that holds/guides the primer pin. There is a small spring that sits under the primer pin that creates pressure against the plastic edge of the guide. As it wears the pin angles further out until it starts to give small problems, occasionally tipped primers that fall off, or those that go in 90* off axis. As it gets worse the smiley faces show up and the priming can be a royal PITA. If you let the shell float outward at that station, results can be satisfactory but it will get worse. If you use an alignment die in your turret, the problem just became a show stopper!
The plastic parts (feeder ramp) is cheap and should be replaced when problems start showing up. I chose to NOT put the spring back under the primer pin to prevent or hopefully delay the problem from coming back. I have made another 1,000 rounds in the past week with perfect results.
Overall it works very well, but it can be frustrating when you don't know what is wrong. All of the other brands have their issues as well, but the 650XL with accessories is almost triple the price. Many people seem to forget this is a progressive press. If you only want to do one or 2 stages at a time, then use a simpler press.
I just bought my second Load-Master from Higginson Powders about six weeks ago for $384 + HST + shipping. This one came setup with 9mm dies and only took about an hour to get it tweaked and running perfectly. In a leisurely 4 hour period, I loaded just over 1,000 cartridges.
Unfortunately, thanks to our pathetic Loonie, Andrew had to jack the price to $460 but that's the full kit, not just a bare press...
Unfortunately, thanks to our pathetic Loonie, Andrew had to jack the price to $460 but that's the full kit, not just a bare press...
Interesting tip for the loadmaster...
I spray everything except the ram with hornady dry lube. All surfaces, including inside the dies, inside and outside the powder hopper, , the shell plates, the press itself, and the entire priming system. Works way better than oil or grease, and things don't get gummed up.
I spray everything except the ram with hornady dry lube. All surfaces, including inside the dies, inside and outside the powder hopper, , the shell plates, the press itself, and the entire priming system. Works way better than oil or grease, and things don't get gummed up.
I admit that I don't go looking for hints on the Lee presses. So that's one I missed.
I've passed the ones I had onto a good shooting buddy who continues to use them complete with the half dozen mods I did to mine. But this idea of tilting the press is just another in a long line of tricks and mods that seem to always be needed for Lee presses to get them working well. And the very need for such little tricks is why I don't like recommending Lee presses.
one added benefit to mounting it on washers is the ability to clean under the press - the 1000 uses 2 holes in the base to drop the spent primers through- those holes don't catch ALL the primers- you can stick a flat piece of wood in between the base and the bench to flush those out- I use one of the tools on my shop-vac for this purpose-
