Let's build a 1000yrd rifle, opinions and thoughts welcomed!!

Ok so let's recap

I've found a potential purchase, a 700 to start with...


It's 26" heavy barrel but 1:12 twist???

I'm told to stick with only 1:10 twist? What factory rem700 offers a 24-26" barrel with 1:10 twist???



Also... If purchasing a rifle without any break... Is it recommended to get it threaded from factory, or take it to a local gunsmith??


Rifle I'm currently eyeballing is rem700 1:12 twist, 26" heavy barrel, no brake or threading.


Thoughts and opinions???


Links is nice to, for potential buys!!

So I'd have to thread it myself.
 
What caliber??

Your twist choice depends on caliber and what bullet weight you're hoping to toss around.

You don't HAVE to have a brake. You can always add it later. If you have a 10+lb gun in a reasonable caliber (30-06 or less) a brake is just to look cool.....and blast those around you at the range!!!
 
.308 will be my choice of caliber

Competition would be nice to get into.


1:12??? Compared to 1:10??

I could always take off the break when competing?? Advantages &disadvantages??
 
Maybe do some research before you buy anything. I would start looking at the bullets you want to use and see what twist rate is right for you. So, G7 BC and stability for the bullet. Maybe a faster twist rate, but it depends on your round.
 
Sorry, you said .308 in your first post......i'm blind, or dumb, or both.

No brake needed.

Go on the Berger website and you can see their stability calculator. I can tell you 1:10 or 1:12 will be fine with anything in the 175-215 range. My F-class is 1:11.25 and it's designed for the 185 juggernauts.

As for barrel length, then longer the better for target work.

Remind us of your budget??? It'll help me look for options for you on the EE.

I agree with everyone above that said that planning to upgrade in 3 or 6 or 12 or 24 months is dumb. It'll just cost you $$, and cause you to have to set it all up again.....
 
.308 will be my choice of caliber

Competition would be nice to get into.


1:12??? Compared to 1:10??

I could always take off the break when competing?? Advantages &disadvantages??

Don't need a brake in a heavy .308. It's more a liability than a help.

Does anyone disagree with my comment that in a .308 the 185-210 range is a sound suggestion??
 
I have two 12 twist and two 13 twist 308 barrels and all will handle bullets from 155 to 180 just fine. If my intent was to shoot bullets longer than the 190SMK, I would probably go for a ten. I do have two which are 10 1/4 twist and they shoot just like the others but would be my choice to shoot 190 plus.
 
Sounds like i may have found my starting point..


Optics optics optics.... Vortex pst 6-24 seems to be 1449$ these days...

Anyone suggest others in that ballpark and websites to view??


Must be ffp.. :)
 
Sounds like i may have found my starting point..


Optics optics optics.... Vortex pst 6-24 seems to be 1449$ these days...

Anyone suggest others in that ballpark and websites to view??


Must be ffp.. :)

Sightron and maybe Burris, or if you catch a smokin used deal on a bushnell 4.5-30
 
.308 will be my choice of caliber

Competition would be nice to get into.


1:12??? Compared to 1:10??

I could always take off the break when competing?? Advantages &disadvantages??

If competition of any kind is part of the plan, strongly suggest you review the rules and format to see if the rifle you are thinking about will fit in the rules or even make sense.

Tactical/PRS rifle is going to look and work a whole lot differently then an FTR rig even though they will shoot the same case.

WRT to twist, goes back to the useage and what bullets you want to shoot. For a mag fed rifle, the 12 twist is fine as you can't fit the heavier bullets in that mag anyways.

As a single feed FTR rig, it will work with the lighter 185's but when you break 200gr and up, you want more spin.... but if you want to shoot in FTR, you likely will be putting on a new very heavy barrel so you can decide on twist at that point.

Muzzle brake - good/bad... it all depends on the application, rules if any, how you feel about recoil.

Know the end use first... the parts will sort themself out in a few seconds.

Jerry
 
Don't need a brake in a heavy .308. It's more a liability than a help.

Does anyone disagree with my comment that in a .308 the 185-210 range is a sound suggestion??

Depends on the game he wants to play... great bullets that don't fit well into mags (maybe the 185gr OTM) so...

Have you looked though a Bushnell tactical 4.5-30? Not a scope I would recommend with todays quality of glass.

Jerry
 
Fun shooting at the range either club or private, have at it and get what tickles your fancy bone. If you want to run some comps, decide what comps you are interested in and then see what type of rifle is required to meet the objectives. Hard to go wrong with a standard Rem 700, have the gun smith tweak it and you are good to go. Don't get hung up on the chassis thing, they haven't really been my cup of tea to lay behind, they look cool though! My current build id going to go into a MDT HS3 chassis so I am hoping I like it better than other chassis I have been behind.
 
Depends on the game he wants to play... great bullets that don't fit well into mags (maybe the 185gr OTM) so...

Have you looked though a Bushnell tactical 4.5-30? Not a scope I would recommend with todays quality of glass.

Jerry

So what scope would you recommend then Jerry? And please explain to me what is wrong with a bushnell 4.5-30x50?
 
I have built and torn apart a dozen different rifle which would not only perform well at 1000 yards but with which I could be competitive. None utilized any sort of "chassis" and none wore more than $500 worth of glass. Chamberings ranged from 22-250 up to 30/06 and included no less than six different 308's. Currently, I have four 308's a 22-250. a 30/06, a 303 British, a 30/40 Krag, and two 6.5x55's. Actions include Winchester Model 70's (3) Remington 40X (1), PGW, RPA, Ruger 77 and P14 Enfield. All will shoot close to 1/2 minute and some considerably better than that at 300 M. With that out of the way, let me say this; the configuration of your rifle and it's make up is largely dependent upon what you want your rifle to look like. There are numerous ways to accomplish the same goal. You can build on a "chassis", you can use a synthetic stock, you can build on a wood stock, or build on a wood/ aluminum/glass composite. You can build a practical rifle which can almost double as a hunting rifle (assuming you are young and strong or old and don't get far from the truck!) or you can build a 16 pounder which is at home only on the range and, preferably, on the bench or on the ground. You can build a Roy Dunlap or Jim Cloward classic or and all aluminum and steel space gun and all will have the potential to shoot as well as you can at 1000 yd.

i d like to hear about your ruger 77.

thanks a lot.
 
Depends on the game he wants to play... great bullets that don't fit well into mags (maybe the 185gr OTM) so...

Have you looked though a Bushnell tactical 4.5-30? Not a scope I would recommend with todays quality of glass.

Jerry

I have. I look through one every time my 6.5 comes out.

It's not as good as my ATACR, or my S&B, but if one can get a good deal on it and it works for the budget, it's fine. The biggest piss-off with it (and it's 3.5-21 little brother) is that I lose the edges of the G2 reticles at high magnification.
 
I have. I look through one every time my 6.5 comes out.

It's not as good as my ATACR, or my S&B, but if one can get a good deal on it and it works for the budget, it's fine. The biggest piss-off with it (and it's 3.5-21 little brother) is that I lose the edges of the G2 reticles at high magnification.

seen more then one go in for warranty regarding the focus, it's a nice 400 dollar scope though
 
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