Could a gunsmith explain something to me please?

I'm well aware of that. The issue is inconsistent ignition. What I'm thinking is that sometimes the bolt isn't all the way forward and the firing pin isn't getting hit properly. I'd like to see some pictures of rounds that did fire. I'm curious to see the firing pin marks.
 




While this involves a different rifle, a CZ455. it may offer some insight. The first picture shows considerable contact with the outside of the rim which results in crushing brass.
By reshaping the firing pin, the imprint is moved inside the rim, supposedly giving more consistent ignition and that is the purpose of the second picture.

I do believe the process improved accuracy and the same was done with my other CZ455.
Just a thought but the foot print pictured by the OP looks like a size 15 Triple EEE with a lack of depression.
 
The damage shown on the rim could be happening during feeding. I have spent many hours tuning and tweaking my 10/22's and when I trouble shoot anything I like to remove as many variables as I can to try and isolate the problem.

Could be interesting to leave the mag out, manually feed in a single round, check to make sure the bolt is fully seated, fire off that round, and then check to see what that brass looks like.

krprice84 said:
The feeding and the ignition of primers are separate functions. If it chambers a round, feeding is working.
Click to expand...
 
I understand the point, and sure it won't hurt anything to try, but the same result could be had by just smacking the bolt handle forward every round and see if that helps.

My guess is either the firing pin is too short (doesn't look like that's the case), the firing pin nose is too wide (could be), or the headspace is too large.
 
Great photos depicting what it should be on that CZ!

I've done some tweaking and if the wife hurries up after work, I will go to the bush and do some testing! I will try the hand feeding as well, can't hurt to try! It would be odd if 3 mags gave the same issue with too much spring tension causing excess pressure.

Thank you all from the bottom of my pocket. Hopefully tomorrow yields good results!
 
Update!

So here's the deal, I can get all rounds to fire but I have to press forward on the bolt handle every time to make sure it's properly seated. Now this doesn't happen with every round but I do have to check it every time or else it fails.

Happening through the magazine and hand loading it. I tore it apart last night and couldn't really see anything that would be preventing the bolt assembly from not seating properly... My question is, how could I identify what is causing this issue? Like I said, doesn't happen every time and this is with 3 types of ammo, rem, CCI and win.
 
Sounds like there is a part on the bolt that's hanging up.

I'd look for any polished spots, and maybe they need to be stoned down or polished more. Have a good look at what happens when you push the bolt forward.... Does it move up, down, just straight? Does it stop early without a round in the chamber or only when there is one there?
 
Only stops when there's a round chambered and it goes straight. It's almost as if it's crooked and the pushing forward gets the rim fully seated. Someone had mentioned the handle should be tight as well as the bolt assembly and it isn't the case apparently. I do have to say however, I am happy that it was firing once fully seated! So not a mag issue, not a firing pin issue.

I will look for some obvious spots that may need touching up. Maybe there's an edge or something causing this.
 
Gah! So headspace it is then. Well, no way in hell it's going back to Grech, I'll suck it up and push that bolt forward every time.

Thank you to everyone that has helped me identify the issue! Although a crummy outcome, it'll have to do until I can put together some money for a new plinkster! I'll be browsing the EE daily lol!
 
I don't know how it would be headspace though. Headspace on a rimmed case would, to me, suggest that either it is too great, in which case it would consistently not fire (pushing the bolt wouldn't help, since presumably the bolt is in full battery, or it has too small of a headspace, and the bolt wouldn't fully close, in which case it would likely fire fine and on a 22lr you'd possibly never even know it was too small

Curiouser and curiouser to me....

Hey I got a crazy idea.... Check your extractor claw! Is it riding on the slot in the barrel end? Maybe the barrel isn't indexed quite right, causing the extractor claw to draw on its way in, slowing the bolt down? Or maybe the extractor claw leading edge is really rough, or the claw won't pivot smoothly so it gets hung up on the case rim....

That actually sounds a little plausible now that I think it over....
 
Price, I was actually thinking about the extractor as well. It could explain the click I hear. It's spring seems pretty tight, maybe too tight? Almost as if it's pressure won't allow it to grip the rim consistently. This might also explain the odd marking on the brass. Hmmmm... I will have to test further, I'm not sure how to access the extractor portion of the bolt assembly. Looks like a sealed section.
 
That really sounds like when I had a broken recoil spring. Only way I could get it to cycle properly before replacing the spring, was by pushing the bolt forward by the handle.
 
Yeah that makes some sense too! If the tension is out then that could explain why it won't fully seat. Would explain why it's getting hung up on the extractor!

The knowledge here is awesome! You guys are all awesome, I hope you know that!

If I were to add a shim or wedge between the rod and spring, that could add some tensions. The spring itself is straight and none of the coil is bent or broken. Hmmm... More time fixing this is actually paying off, I'm gaining knowledge!
 
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