Sportco model 44

LeeEnfieldNo.4_mk1

LeeEnfieldNo.4_mk1

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Just ran into a sportco model 44 in 7.62x51 at a local shop. Anyone have any experience with them? I would be looking at it for a general target rifle, something I can work on marksmanship with.

How would these compare to a Shultz and Larsen M69 or CG63 rifles in 6.5x55?

Thanks.
 
Like the two Mausers, the Sportcos are old school target rifles.
They were widely used for PRA/DCRA target rifle competition. Sights will go to 1000y.
The basic 44 has a few warts. The three lugged bolthead locks into the barrel. Proprietary barrels must be used, unless an adapter is fitted. This makes rebarrelling easy IF a factory replacement barrel can be had. Being an older rifle, a lot of rounds may have been fired. Primary extraction may leave a bit to be desired. The rifles were designed to shoot 7.62x51 ball. With civilian brass and warm loads, stuck cases can happen.
Easier to scope than the Mausers.
 
Those are way undervalued rifles IMHO.
Brand new proprietary barrels are still available from Madco in Australia I believe.
I think Paul Rieben in Kamloops might still have some adapters available for sale.
There is nothing wrong with primary extraction with my left hand Sportco 44 in 225 Win barrel fitted to the adapter self made from my old 308Win barrel made by S&L.
Detachable bolt head just like Savage's makes the set up very flexible so the cartridges like 223Rem can be used.
Quality barrel will give you competition ready rifle for a fraction of the cost of other setups.
The Sportco 44 receiver is way more stiffer than any other available on the market today.
All mine were/are shooting like lasers.
GR8 2c worth....
 
Export from Australia could be problematic.
Paul Reibin would be the first person I would contact. It would be worth contacting Ganderite as well.
Of the three rifles mentioned, the Sportco would be my first choice.
I recall the last year that the cadets were shooting Sportcos at onnaught, the ammunition supplied was the British RG loaded with a 155gr HPBT target bullet.
Cleaning rods and rubber mallets were supplied along the line, and the sound of hammering was often heard, as stuck cases were removed.
 
tiriaq said:
I recall the last year that the cadets were shooting Sportcos at onnaught, the ammunition supplied was the British RG loaded with a 155gr HPBT target bullet.
Cleaning rods and rubber mallets were supplied along the line, and the sound of hammering was often heard, as stuck cases were removed.
Click to expand...

I remember that year. For some reason I think they were shooting Black Hills ammo. If a civy shooter was hammering his bolt open with a wooded tent peg, they would have been asked to remove that rifle from the range until the problem was sorted out.
 
Didn't the Cadets cycle all their Sportcos through then-Diemaco for new barrels and a copy of Jim Duggan's adaptor? Better rifles afterwards.

I have a DCRA wooden Sportco rifle box. Don't remember which rifle it came from, but there was a time when these rifles were loaned far and wide. Have a look at the receiver ring for deep stamps with a short serial number and DCRA.
 
If anyone wants to part with a lefty one, drop me a line.

No more proprietary barrels available from AU. Adapters and conventional barrels can be had for a very reasonable sum without any hassles on our end from TS Engineering.

Went through it a month ago. They are what they are, by and large good shooters and obsolete target rifles.
 
LeeEnfieldNo.4_mk1 said:
Good to know thanks. Would these be able to be re barreled to 6.5x55 or would the action be too short?
Click to expand...

Yes, it can be rebarreled to 6.5-55 but to load it you have to put the bullet first and then close the bolt-slow but it will work-its single shot anyway.
Brass can be ejected normal way but to eject whole cartridge the bolt will have to be withdrawn.
 
So, figured it would be a good buy so just picked it up. Came with the mentioned central sight and a Parker hale front sight. Only problem is no front aperture.

So, I have never owned a proper target rifle before, so how do I set up and use these sights lol? I understand somewhat the elevation and wind age adjustments. however it came with a box of three apertures and a little plate with four different sized apertures.

The three apertures are a fixed "dish" shaped one, a fixed "cone" shaped one, and one with a rubber eye piece that adjusts similar to a camera shutter. I found where I think the little plate goes on the sight body itself.

So, Anyone give a complete novice a quick run through lol? Also, how hard is it to track down a front aperture?

Going to take it out of the stock and give it a cleaning tomorrow, lots of dust an gunk in some places. Also, is it normal for it to be somewhat difficult to open and close the action? It slides smooth but both the opening and closing turns are stiff. Also, The safety does not work when its in the stock but does when its out of the stock. However it seems to be in solid condition, hardly any bluing wear in the action and the bore looked quite sharp.
 
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Phone Paul Reiben, and he will probably have some of the metal inserts for you.

Are you going to sling it? Or shoot off bags? If you're going to sling it I would get a basic sling and a glove when you phone Paul.

Did it come with the handstop?
 
Paul should have the front sight inserts inn either meta or a set in clear plastic. Or if you are feeling spendy, you could go with an 18mm front iris.
Sounds like you have a rear iris. The little sliding plate with three hole was used to slide to your desired aperture and tighten in place buy tightening the eye cup.
You should be able to free up the bolt slightly by greasing the bolt lugs and the primary extraction point on the bolt handle. I would not worry too much about the safety but it could be rubbing on the stock. I have never been in a situation where you would need a safety on the range (usually bolt open a breech flag inserted)

Your sight are more than likely 1/3 MOA, in other words 3 clicks per minute.Turning the knobs clockwise is up for elevation and right on windage. Easy way to remember this is clockwise moves the sights towards your hand. Once you have zeroed the rifle, move the scale plates to zero for your windage. Your elevation plate may or may not be able to be set to zero, that's ok, just set it to any nominal hash mark, ie your 300 yard zero may be 5 minutes or 10 minutes instead of zero. Hope this helps.
 
keegs said:
Phone Paul Reiben, and he will probably have some of the metal inserts for you.

Are you going to sling it? Or shoot off bags? If you're going to sling it I would get a basic sling and a glove when you phone Paul.

Did it come with the handstop?
Click to expand...

I will probaby sling it for shorter ranges and bag for longer. And no hand stop.

maynard said:
Paul should have the front sight inserts inn either meta or a set in clear plastic. Or if you are feeling spendy, you could go with an 18mm front iris.
Sounds like you have a rear iris. The little sliding plate with three hole was used to slide to your desired aperture and tighten in place buy tightening the eye cup.
You should be able to free up the bolt slightly by greasing the bolt lugs and the primary extraction point on the bolt handle. I would not worry too much about the safety but it could be rubbing on the stock. I have never been in a situation where you would need a safety on the range (usually bolt open a breech flag inserted)

Your sight are more than likely 1/3 MOA, in other words 3 clicks per minute.Turning the knobs clockwise is up for elevation and right on windage. Easy way to remember this is clockwise moves the sights towards your hand. Once you have zeroed the rifle, move the scale plates to zero for your windage. Your elevation plate may or may not be able to be set to zero, that's ok, just set it to any nominal hash mark, ie your 300 yard zero may be 5 minutes or 10 minutes instead of zero. Hope this helps.
Click to expand...

So the plate and the cone go together? What about the other two apatures (Iris's?) Are they just alternate parts or would they have specific uses? It seems to have scale plates that can be zeroes which is nice.

I was not overly concerned about the safety, Iys a single shot and I won't be packing this thing around loaded anyways.
 
Picked up a few different size inserts from a gun show. Now all I need to do is shoot it. So, From what i understand is you want to target to fill the front sight?

Also cleaned up the stock and gave it a coat of oil, very nice looking rifle now.
 
The round aiming mark needs to be centered in the front aperture. How much of a white ring should encircle the black is personal - that is why front sights can be varied, but the black shouldn't fill the front sight.
 
The target should fill 1/2 of the front sight. One of the biggest mistake new shooter makes is not having enough white around the aiming mark. It is easier to center a small dot (target) in a bigger hole, than it is to center an large dot in a small hole.
 
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