Halving A Propane Tank - Go Big or Go Home

gnmontey

gnmontey

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So... I have pretty much concluded that if I setup an outdoor melter I might as well go for the gold.

Assuming I can get my hands on an expired 20# tank what are the options for cutting it in half?

I don't have an angle grinder and I really don't want to invest in one.

I do have a skill saw with metal cutting blades and a sawzall with metal cutting blades.

Will those do it?

I'm thinking break through the tank surface with my skill saw and complete the cut with the sawzall.

Thoughts, Suggestions, Been there done that - didn't work?


M
 
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Before you start cutting into a propane tank make sure it's all purged out first or else kaboom!
An angle grinder with a cut off disc should work, won't be a fast process though
If you can get it cut with a plasma cutter that would be the way to do it
 
I have cut propane tanks lots.....I always remove all threaded fittings then fill with water....then I use a plasma torch to cut it open once the water drains I finish. I've also cut lots of #### up with a sawzal and a propane tank is frack all for a good metal cutting blade.
I have never used a skill saw with a metal blade yet but it would work as well. 20 pond Ptanks are less than 1/8th of an inch thick
 
Take it to a welding shop or even a body shop and ask nicely ( might cost you $10 or $20 ) if they will use their plasma cutter to lop her in half for ya .
Try a smaller shop ( Liability issues and all )
Been there done that to make a heat treat furnace for tempering knife blades .
 
To insure that all the gas is gone from the tank, first hit it with several rounds of OO buck from a 12 gauge! Repeat the process if you are unsure.
 
peacemaker56 said:
Take the valve out a fill it with water before cutting that tank.
Click to expand...

Does it need to be full of water when cutting or can you drain and cut?

What does one use to remove the valve? Turn clockwise, or counter clockwise to remove? Seems to me gas fittings are opposite to norm for some reason?

Totally out of my element here, but willing to give it a go...

M
 
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Doesn't need to be water filled when you cut it, just make sure water has displaced all the LPG. Drain the water then leave it propped up with the removed valve down. Ensure there is an air space between the removed valve and what you have it propped up on as LPG is heavier than air. Leave it that way for a day or so to be on the safe side, then you are good to go.
 
I chopped one in half, did the water rinse first and left it upside down for a day before
cutting with my angle grinder

My $0.02; An angle grinder is not a big investment and certainly a very useful tool
that you might use more often once you have one.
You can find a decent (brand name) one on sale for les then $30 sometimes.
( for instance ht tps://www.amazon.ca/Hitachi-G12SS-Inch-Angle-Grinder/dp/B0013Y9OLI )
Don't buy "mastercrap" or comparable. They have bad bearings and gears that make a lot of noise and vibrate terrible in your hand.

For the money spend driving around looking for a shop to cut it and pay them $20 to do it you could have owned
an angle grinder. Would have been a lot faster too.
Even if you don't want to keep it you can put it on Kijiji and sell it again for 15 or 20 bucks.
 
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I cut a 5000 gallon buried oil tank in half with a recip and a metal blade (after purging it with exhaust). Your sawzall should work dandy on the little tank. Just start on a corner to get into it, then have at 'er. Alter purging of course.
 
a sawzall with a metal blade will easily cut through a propane tank, the hardest part will be starting the cut unless you have a long metal blade. you can drill a hole the size of the blade to get an easier start. You would have to have the crappiest luck in the work for the tank to blow up/ignite if it's not under pressure but still has propane in it at atmosphere pressure.
 
The threads on the valve are regular pipe threads. So "righty tighty, lefty loosey"
They're a bugger to remove. If you can clamp it down tightly you will have a much higher chance of success. I used a ratchet strap on the last tank I removed the valve on...
 
Split the handle in half and weld it to the tank after you've cut it in half. Oh, no welder? Then take the whole tank to an auto body or welding shop and pay then the $40 cash to do everything for you.

BTW that's a big bunch of lead to melt. Might want to look at options for a bottom pour system while you're thinking of going big. There's some neat setups if you search.
 
gnmontey said:
Can I fill the tank with water without removing the valve?

M
Click to expand...

No, remove the valve.

As was said, the wall is very thin. If you use a sawzall get a fairly fine tooth metal blade. It took me about 3 minutes with a cutoff wheel on an angle grinder but it's not hard to cut. Use the seam as a guide.
 
Well..... I didn't have to go far to find a tank. A neighbour gave me one.

All attempts to remove the valve have failed. What the heck do you secure the tank with in order to put some leverage on the valve?

I did manage to get the valve stem off and that gave clear access into the tank. It's filling with water (very slowly) as we speak.

Every one suggests cutting at the seam. Is that the optimal pot size? Seems like a waste of potential volume?

M
 
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