Anschutz 64R Tactical Trainer 64R AND 64MPR

Well guys, got out and put 150 rounds of Midas + down range in damn near perfect weather. 0 win, in the shade, sun behind me... Same disappointing results.

Especially when a fellow CGN member and range goer confirm their savage shoots better with blazer then my annie with midas +....

Attached is the pic, note the vertical stringing... I am shooting from the bottom of my breath after a 2 breath breathing cycle. The cross hairs are on the dot every time that trigger pulls and is still on the dot after... The bullet hole not so much...

I shot top to bottom, left to right... 5 shots each group.. Didn't adjust optic until the last 8 groups (the one that are centered but still vertical lol)

I REALLY dont want to buy a tuner, as I feel I should not have to. I still have yet to try adjusting torque settings on action. (I was going to but I forgot my torque driver...)

Here is the Midas +
View attachment 103821
 
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The only thing I can suggest is a thourough cleaning and try shooting of a front rest like the rock BR and a rabbit ear rear bag with center X.All my Annies have loved center X.I would also disasemble re torque check that barrel is free floating and torque it tight around 40 inch lbs.and give it another go.
 
Are you by any chance close to Trenton Ontario?

Nah, much farther south.

The only thing I can suggest is a thourough cleaning and try shooting of a front rest like the rock BR and a rabbit ear rear bag with center X.All my Annies have loved center X.I would also disasemble re torque check that barrel is free floating and torque it tight around 40 inch lbs.and give it another go.

Just gave it a solid bore clean with g96 bore solvent.

Shooting from a caldwell bag set. Rear is rabbit eat style.

Barrel is DEFINITELY free floated haha Tons of room.

Max torque specs are 35. So definitely wont go over that. (tried that setting already to no avail)
 
Dang bud, I'd have cut the shooting short after the first target page, obvious the Midas wasn't a hit and that's pricey stuff to burn up for those results :(

You're at a bit of a crossroads, without a tuner you'll have to spend a couple Grand on bricks of all the match ammo offerings to test out, and most of them won't shoot well so you'll be stuck with nearly full bricks needing another rifle... Or get the tuner. It's also a sizeable investment, and you'll need the weight set with it. Since it has to be precision sized for your barrel, there's not much flexibility for putting it on another rifle if you decide to sell this one in the near future, it could be bored out larger, but can't be made smaller. Lastly, you compile more evidence of at least another 5-10 quality ammos shooting poorly like this and put in a lemon claim :(

I just got back from round 2 of playing with a tuner on my XXII, this time with both weights added. I'd say I got it nicely dialed in at the end, at least as far as I can hold a sporter rifle steady and shoot in gusty conditions ;) I'm pretty tickled with the performance at setting H:1-19, coming from this ammo shooting high 0.6's-1" through the bare barrel. Page 5 Post #43 to review my bare barrel groups. I've proved, to myself at least :p, that a good rifle + good ammo (as per chronograph results) that don't shoot in tune, can be made to shoot well with a tuner.



 
Well I may have the opportunity to swap out the barreled action.

I would like to try X act, Tennex and some SK match before I give up.

Wondering what qualifies a "lemon". Not really willing to sell it if it is like that but it is a BIG kick in the #### if I use all the top grade ammo's and none of them shoot...

So really if X-act, Tennex and SK match dont shoot well... I may take up nordic on the barreled action swap... I mean cmon how could ALL of the top brands match ammo not shoot?!
 
I'd jump all over that barreled action swap, this one you got just looks like a nightmare. Even if you do get it shooting, it'll be with "magic pixie dust lot# ###xx" and that's all you can feed it....

I could be wrong, but with Center-x and Midas not doing well, chances of any other Lapua or SK brands doing well just dropped significantly IMO. Time to move on to Eley and RWS.

Yeah, Anschütz does not put a number on what accuracy you should be getting...

2. Shooting Performance: The purchaser undertakes to inform J.G. ANSCHÜTZ GmbH & Co. KG in writing of any
faults detected in shooting performance within one month of purchase with the submission of their own shooting record.
J.G. ANSCHÜTZ GmbH & Co. KG reserves the right to transfer the rifle to an independent agency for inspection (DEVA
or a national ballistics offi ce). Should such an agency confirm excellent shooting performance, J.G. ANSCHÜTZ GmbH
& Co. KG is entitled to charge the purchaser the costs of the rifle inspection. The accepted warranties do not apply to rifle
damage resulting from mechanical effects and improper use or care by the purchaser. The warranty is excluded if the rifle
has been repaired or modified by unauthorised persons. Likewise, the warranty is cancelled when using reloaded ammunition
or ammunition which is not CIP approved.
In the event of a warranty/damage claim please enclose this card, completed and signed by your dealer, with the product.
 
I was checking some CCI SV in my Anschutz 1416D as a novice will be shooting it at our 100 Meter Rimfire Benchrest.
The upper left is a combination of SV and Federal Match. The two targets on the right is CCI SV from a plastic sleeve and the lower left is CCI SV from a paper box.
A lighter spring was used in the trigger to get it down to a pound.
It has shot the Federal Match 922A well before as well as CenterX. It is a great little rifle.
Since the Federal 922A is made to R50 standards, some parallel tests showed the two were very close and could change on any give day but at 100 yards the 922A was 0.76 and the R50 0.79. It has Qualified in the 50 yard challenge using CenterX:
.245, .414, .297, .494, and .454 for an Average: 0.3808



I don't know what else to tell you other than check your torque, lighten your trigger, and try lots of different ammo. Give it a good cleaning and then recondition the bore using lead bullets only.
As to X-Act, in algebra "X" is an unknown quantity. When two bricks were divided up and given out as five prizes in our BR50 group . . . not one of us got performance! One guy went back to CenterX after shooting on very disappointing target and I went back to Eley.
 
Well I may have the opportunity to swap out the barreled action.

I would like to try X act, Tennex and some SK match before I give up.

Wondering what qualifies a "lemon". Not really willing to sell it if it is like that but it is a BIG kick in the #### if I use all the top grade ammo's and none of them shoot...

So really if X-act, Tennex and SK match dont shoot well... I may take up nordic on the barreled action swap... I mean cmon how could ALL of the top brands match ammo not shoot?!

I'd jump all over that barreled action swap, this one you got just looks like a nightmare. Even if you do get it shooting, it'll be with "magic pixie dust lot# ###xx" and that's all you can feed it....

I could be wrong, but with Center-x and Midas not doing well, chances of any other Lapua or SK brands doing well just dropped significantly IMO. Time to move on to Eley and RWS.

I have to agree with Rabid.

Don't waste your time and money shooting X Act and Tenex. That's an awful lot of money at risk. Don't keep doing the same thing over and over and expect different results. It's not an ammo problem.

If Nordic Marksman gives you a new barrelled action, take them up on the offer. If that doesn't solve your problem, you would have extraordinary, odds-defying bad luck with two of the relatively few barrelled actions in Canada for the Anschutz Tactical Trainer; or you would have to modify your shooting technique with this model of rifle.

Take the swap as fast as you can!

Do it faster than you can.
 
My last observation is that this barrel does not like being free floated, the harmonics are clearly way out of whack. If you insist on testing more ammo again before taking the barreled action swap, do so with pressure shims at various locations in the barrel channel, torque at 24 inch-lbs (lets keep one variable constant). 10 fouler shots for the clean barrel, then go for groups. Start with the shim 3 inches forward of the chamber, shoot a group, two max (that's all you need to tell if it's working or not) then move the shim up either in 1/2" or 1" increments until you're at the tip of the forestock.

Try it with a couple types of ammo (clean, or at least dry patch when switching), if an ammo and shim position looks good, vet it out with more groups and then adjust torque up and down to see if you can dial it in. You'll burn at least 4 or 5 boxes of ammo doing this, so I'd suggest something affordable like SK Standard +, Eley Club, RWS Target rifle, etc. Finding the "magic bullet" for the free floated barrel looks like a needle in a haystack endeavor, taking action to modulate the harmonics is your best bet for success at this point.
 
I agree with Rabid.^^^
Many of my rifles shoot much better with a pressure bed on the barrel rather than free floating. My .303 lee Enfield is a classic example. Free floated it shoots vertical stringing groups that aren't anything to brag about. After installing a 7# pressure bed below the barrel 10.5" in front of the Knox it shoots 1-1.5" round groups at 100m with the iron sights.
 
I'd take Brad up on the swap . That's very generous on his part so grab it . Your rifle should not have to shoot ammo like Tenex and Midas to shoot well . Sk Standard Plus and ammo at that level should shoot extremely good and well under .500 5 shot groups at 50 yards . I would expect that rifle should be solidly in high .300's every time in no wind conditions . If you can do a barrel swap , start your tuning process from scratch again and move on . Consider yourself lucky that you bought from a quality shop . Nordic Marksman is about 1.5 hour drive for me and they are good people . He has an AWESOME , fully functional , complete German MG34 from 1944 in the shop . Interesting stuff.
 
Perhaps this is completely unrelated to the situation facing the OP. Nevertheless, I had results with a rifle of mine that were not dissimilar to those experienced by the OP. Some shots would go in or very near the same hole, and then one or a couple elsewhere. (See post #41 in this thread.)

The problem, I discovered yesterday, was that the forward action screw, was too long. It "bottomed out" before it could be sufficiently tightened. I came to realize that the screw was not any tighter when I increased the torque. I shortened it a wee bit and was able to add over five inch pounds of torque, and this made a world of a difference.

As I say, this might be irrelevant to the OP's rifle, but I think that it wouldn't hurt to pass this idea along.
 
Perhaps this is completely unrelated to the situation facing the OP. Nevertheless, I had results with a rifle of mine that were not dissimilar to those experienced by the OP. Some shots would go in or very near the same hole, and then one or a couple elsewhere. (See post #41 in this thread.)

The problem, I discovered yesterday, was that the forward action screw, was too long. It "bottomed out" before it could be sufficiently tightened. I came to realize that the screw was not any tighter when I increased the torque. I shortened it a wee bit and was able to add over five inch pounds of torque, and this made a world of a difference.

As I say, this might be irrelevant to the OP's rifle, but I think that it wouldn't hurt to pass this idea along.

Not something Ive noticed but I can look again. I will not be doing anything to void any warranty of this rifle.

When I get some free time (wont be for a week or two) I will try adjusting the torque settings also.

I have contacted Nordic a couple of days ago (through PM on this site, as that is how they contacted me) asking for details of the action swap but have not received a response.

Will be sending an email tomorrow likely. They asked to stay in contact.
 
Went out, did a ladder with the midas +

The best result was at minimum torque of 22lbs I didnt show you guys past 27 lbs (because you can see that result above! lol)

22lbs gave me 3 groups out of 5 under .500 (all in the .400's)
The middle square's where me going back to the 22lb mark, it then dint preform so great with extreme vertical stringing again.
View attachment 104172

This was my 223... 5 shot group, cold bore 100 yards... Just so everyone can rule me out as the problem! lol (I brought literally 5 rounds just to shoot it and reassure myself I can shoot! lmfao)
View attachment 104171
 
Was that fired with factory ammo? Still running the R700 you posted about some time ago?

Vmax 55 grain on the weatherby dropped in a Bell and Carlson stock that is aluminum bedded.

I was getting results like this (.400-.600) with the original metal floor plate, at a torque of 55 lbs

I switched out to detachable mags (plastic floor plate) and could only tighten to 40 lbs and it opend up into the .600-.800 range.

Since then switched back to the metal as you can see. This is one of the better groups but I have friends who have seen me put a .330 together when I was really on.

Now you see why I may be just a tad bit frustrated when I buy such a reputable 22lr rifle and it does not preform.

Im going away for a couple of days, should be back by the end of the weekend. Hope to hear from the dealer by then.
 
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