.45-70 VS .300 win

Mechanical artwork. :d

The No.1-S is also available in 9.3x74R, another flanged round that just seems right for the No.1 rifle. It too can digest some rather warm handloads. :cool:

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This makes lots of sense to me. I love the 45-70, don't get me wrong, but it doesn't seem right to me in the #1. 450-400 seems perfect and 9.3x74R too. Just something about the 45-70 in that package I can't warm to despite all the logical reasons that it would be great. I don't want a sushi taco and I hated Kid Rick and Sheryl Crow singing together. Just the Fudd in me, I suppose.
 
...All range measuring devices lose accuracy as distance increases, and it only takes a very small error at long range to run into problems...

The Nikon BDC reticle should make accurate shots on big game possible out to nearly 400 yards with a lever 45-70 loaded with 300gr HP factory rounds assuming errors with the reticle and ranging are small enough, say < 5% (??). Should make the generally perceived 150 yard lever 45-70 into a feasible 350 yard hunting rifle.

Haven't tried beyond 150 yards yet, another one for my to-do list.

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Try that method; I don't think you will like it. Using the pic in your post, you see that you have a distinct aiming point at 325 yards (bottom dot), and then the next one, the top of the lower vertical post, is only 55 yards further away. A target at, say, 355 is somewhere in that no-man's-land of unmarked vertical line in between the two. You have to estimate where on the line that unmarked sweet spot is, and then hold it on target, which in the case of an animal is another unmarked spot on the side of the critter.

I've shot a bunch of coyotes with .45-70's; a couple of H&R Buff Classics, a C.Sharps, various Pedersolis, etc. out to distances of slightly over 325 yards. Almost all of those guns were equipped with decent-to-excellent quality Vernier rear sights that would allow me to dial in perfectly at known distances...like your scope does, once you confirm the actual (not published) drop figure for each dot on the reticle. For target shooting, even at much greater ranges, they were great; for animals at lasered field distances, it is much easier to simply use the drop of your particular load (learned through trial and error), and then quickly guesstimate how many coyotes or "fractional coyotes" you need to hold over to make a hit (a coyote is about 24 inches tall). This way you are still shooting at an unmarked spot on or above the critter (like we do with all hunting shots) but you are at least aiming at it with a solid, distinct point; i.e. the front sight or the center crosshair. Reading over this, it sounds complicated...but it is simple to do with some practice. Eventually, it even starts to work! :) Of course, there's still the wind to worry about...

So, once again, it all comes back to the .300 being more versatile...but the big /45-cal boomer is just so much fun!
 
...you see that you have a distinct aiming point at 325 yards (bottom dot), and then the next one, the top of the lower vertical post, is only 55 yards further away. A target at, say, 355 is somewhere in that no-man's-land of unmarked vertical line in between the two...

For 355 yards the magnification can be turned down to 8X and the expanded BDC provides a distinct hold point for 352 yards, close enough to ruin that Coyote's day. ;)

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^ Okay, that's obvious (the variable-power thing)...and of course I never thought of it! :)

Once again, technology comes to the rescue; I struggled to accept the use of laser ranging in combination with shooting a buffalo rifle, but I relented. I doubt I will ever adapt to the notion of scopes/new-age-reticles/ballistic-apps used in concert with one, but it's obvious that they work and work well. My problem and my loss, and probably more common among "vintage" shooters than we realize. You learn something new every day...and at my age I'm getting pretty sick of it! :)
 
For 355 yards the magnification can be turned down to 8X and the expanded BDC provides a distinct hold point for 352 yards, close enough to ruin that Coyote's day. ;)

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And in what world does that make any sense for a hunter.
I hardly want to take a mathematics class and judge angles and elevation just to pull the trigger on a deer.
I understand you're trying to prove a point that a large chunk of lead even going slowly can kill animals at great distances, and we can all appreciate that point.
But you're reaching.
 
What's with the circle reticle. ....wouldn't a simple line work more accurately?

At 9X the circle subtends 2" at 100 yards / 4" at 200 yards / 6" at 300 yards / ...., so it can be used as a range finder on targets of known dimensions.

Together the top 2 circles subtend 4" at 100 yards so if the these cover half the distance on this Elk then range is about 400 yards.

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Estimating range using reticle subtension definitely works, and its easy to remember the info you need to make it work quickly.

As for the rest of it...needing to know the drop figures for each individual circle, and at each varying magnification...I don't know. I sometimes tape a rudimentary dope chart to a rifle stock to help remember the basic numbers I need for that load. I'd need a "dope pamphlet" to make all this stuff work for me.

I hear something...for me, it's the sound of fun quickly evaporating...but to each his own.
 
Four circles plus the top of the post multiplied by seven power settings? If I tried to remember all that I would have to delete my phone number and my gun safe combos from memory to make room...
 
Scope reticle subtension range estimation works. It's used in the military.

I nailed an Elk at ~500 yards with my 416 knowing the reticle subtensions of my Leupold 4x scope to estimate range and holdover.

Congrats. You're a better shot than me.

I prefer the, grab the gun in November, point and pull the trigger method
 
Scope reticle subtension range estimation works. It's used in the military.

I nailed an Elk at ~500 yards with my 416 knowing the reticle subtensions of my Leupold 4x scope to estimate range and holdover.

Congrats. You're a better shot than me.

I prefer the, grab the gun in November, point and pull the trigger method
 
...I love the 45-70, don't get me wrong, but it doesn't seem right to me in the #1. 450-400 seems perfect and 9.3x74R too. Just something about the 45-70 in that package I can't warm to despite all the logical reasons that it would be great. I don't want a sushi taco and I hated Kid Rick and Sheryl Crow singing together. Just the Fudd in me, I suppose.

How to change that view? The 45-70 and No.1 rifle go together well because the round is from the colorful and charismatic Victorian era in a Farquharson-style rifle of the same era. The No.1 45-70 rifle has a certain charm and using one is like taking a step back in time, much like using a Springfield rifle...

And besides it's a real strong action and you can safely load the snawt out of it if you want to. No? :p

"...bringing back to life the elegance of the Victorian era at an affordable price....not a copy of the English-built Farquharson, but the two rifles share levels of grace and beauty seen in few other firearms..."

http://www.shootingtimes.com/hunting/past-present-ruger-1-rifle-review/

45-70 Springfield
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Farquharson rifle
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