No first click on my Uberti El Patron?

B

Brianma65

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I just recently bought this,used, and noticed its missing the first click of four.

I think it's where the hammer goes into its safety.

This is my second El Patron, my first had all four clicks.

Just wondering if this would cause any issues, and what's involved in the fix.

Thanks
 
First click if it's a proper copy would be "half ####"/safety.
Second is cylinder release/loading state.
Third #### will release back to first #### state
4th is ready to sling lead/drop hammer.

That's a lot of ####!
If you're not sure. Just strip the gun right down and check the spurs on the hammer.
Not all clones are created equal. My Pietta 1873 has the full 4 click spur hammer :rockOn:
 
Travis Bickle said:
First click if it's a proper copy would be "half ####"/safety.


Second is cylinder release/loading state.
Third #### will release back to first #### state
4th is ready to sling lead/drop hammer.

That's a lot of ####!
If you're not sure. Just strip the gun right down and check the spurs on the hammer.
Not all clones are created equal. My Pietta 1873 has the full 4 click spur hammer :rockOn:
Click to expand...


It's the same gun as my last one,which had 4 cocks.

If I'm missing a ####, is there anyway ,I can get it back? :)
 
Brianma65 said:
If I'm missing a ####, is there anyway ,I can get it back? :)
Click to expand...

Ok I think that makes you a B2... but I don’t know how one goes about moving around the chart...

FqgKu0L.jpg
 
Brianma65 said:
It's the same gun as my last one,which had 4 cocks.

If I'm missing a ####, is there anyway ,I can get it back? :)
Click to expand...

lol
This thread is awesome.
I am not sure to be honest. I'm no expert on the design but as far as actions go, the 1873 is about as simple as it gets.
I stripped my Pietta down right to the frame when I first got it but I'm OCD with that every time I get a new firearm.

You said it's "missing the first ####" technically that should be the top spur on the hammer which should leave the cylinder and trigger locked up and the hammer just a hair back.
This is the "safety" position if you were to load all 6 chambers in the cylinder.
Does your pistol do this?
If not then there is two things I could think are wrong, one could be your first notch spur on the hammer and/or trigger sear strut is worn/rounded. The other more likely could be your sear/bolt spring is worn/damaged/not installed properly or not fully screwed down properly.
This little split spring is what puts tension on your trigger to push it back to engage the hammer spurs when you manually pull the hammer back see.
So if the spring is not fully tightened down, damaged, worn, not installed properly etc It may not be pushing the trigger back hard enough to engage the first hammer notch which could be why you are not hearing the first ####.
Verified would be if the hammer fails to stay in the fist "safety" position when you pull it back lightly.

You are going to have to take a double high ball of scotch and disassemble that f**ker like a man to check those 3 things.
If you're near Bonnyville Alberta I can give you a hand.
Don't take it to a gunsmith. They are very easy pistols to work on.
 
Travis Bickle said:
lol
This thread is awesome.
I am not sure to be honest. I'm no expert on the design but as far as actions go, the 1873 is about as simple as it gets.
I stripped my Pietta down right to the frame when I first got it but I'm OCD with that every time I get a new firearm.

You said it's "missing the first ####" technically that should be the top spur on the hammer which should leave the cylinder and trigger locked up and the hammer just a hair back.
This is the "safety" position if you were to load all 6 chambers in the cylinder.
Does your pistol do this?
If not then there is two things I could think are wrong, one could be your first notch spur on the hammer and/or trigger sear strut is worn/rounded. The other more likely could be your sear/bolt spring is worn/damaged/not installed properly or not fully screwed down properly.
This little split spring is what puts tension on your trigger to push it back to engage the hammer spurs when you manually pull the hammer back see.
So if the spring is not fully tightened down, damaged, worn, not installed properly etc It may not be pushing the trigger back hard enough to engage the first hammer notch which could be why you are not hearing the first ####.
Verified would be if the hammer fails to stay in the fist "safety" position when you pull it back lightly.

You are going to have to take a double high ball of scotch and disassemble that f**ker like a man to check those 3 things.
If you're near Bonnyville Alberta I can give you a hand.
Don't take it to a gunsmith. They are very easy pistols to work on.
Click to expand...
Yes,hammer locks back in the safety position, but as I pull it back, just before it locks,and where the first click is supposed to occur.

Nothing,no click, I can see it's gonna lock, but no click.

I'll have a go at disassembling, but if I f#%k it up, I'm sending it to you, to fix...LOL

And I'm about 5000 km from Bonneville.
 
Brianma65 said:
Yes,hammer locks back in the safety position, but as I pull it back, just before it locks,and where the first click is supposed to occur.

Nothing,no click, I can see it's gonna lock, but no click.

I'll have a go at disassembling, but if I f#%k it up, I'm sending it to you, to fix...LOL

And I'm about 5000 km from Bonneville.
Click to expand...

Ack.
That's too far..

Anyone can do the 1873. It's dead simple.
I used this video here:

[youtube]wQTN8SUDbH8[/youtube]

If it locks up at half #### (first click) but just doesn't have that distinctive click sound, I'm going to take a wild guess and say your sear/bolt spring screw may have backed out or is not tightened down fully. This would reduce the amount of tension put on the trigger and thus could be the reason the trigger sear is not "snapping" back fast under the notch and producing your desired "CLICK"
I would take it apart personally. It's another reason I full detail strip every used gun I buy. Not JUST an OCD ;) You won't have to go go full retard strip though. Just remove the cylinder, the handle and the trigger guard/frame base. The little sear/bolt spring will be clearly visible just under that. There is a little screw that holds the spring down which puts tension on your cylinder stop (bolt) and rearward pressure on the your trigger (sear). Make sure the screw is tight (blue loctite it) and make sure it's not twisted or offset. Take it right out make sure it's not bent or broken.

This video is excellent as well:
[youtube]nrxVBvh0KTQ[/youtube]

You can do this Sir. Just keep thinking about how great the #### is going to be at the end :D
 
Last edited:
Well, I got it all disassembled, I'll put it all back together,tonight,see if it's any better
There are two screws under there, one very small one,on the back strap.
And a bigger one under the trigger guard.

So ,do I just,tighten both of them up?
Both were not screwed in snug.

I could post a couple pics, tonight, if that would help
 
The new Uberti's have a 3 click action with a new safety system. Google's your bud.
Try Cattleman 2 and see if they're the same action as you have there.
 
IMG_0518.jpgIMG_0520.jpgIMG_0519.jpgI'm pretty sure it's the older version .
I disassembled,and reassembled but can't release the hammer when in full ####.

Pull the trigger and nothing.

So now have no clicks.:)

Here's a pic of the two screws.

The small one on the back strap , has a full threaded female hole.

The bigger one, under the trigger guard,can be tightened up.

And unlike all the videos,I can find, my grips are one piece, not two.

Here's a few pics.

So , recap.

Had three cocks, instead of four.

But now have no cocks...

:(:(:(
 

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Hey,I know you're thinking ,I should just bring this to a smith.

But there isn't any around here ,that's familiar with this gun.

And sending it away is not worth it.

I bought this off a fellow CGN,er,just recently. For a good price.

I'm pretty sure it's the same model as my prievious EL Patron,and should have the same 4 clicks.

I know that the gun will still function,without that first click.

But it still bugs me,that it's not there.


Where's BC Rider ,when you need him:)
 
Brianma65 said:
Hey,I know you're thinking ,I should just bring this to a smith.

But there isn't any around here ,that's familiar with this gun.

And sending it away is not worth it.

I bought this off a fellow CGN,er,just recently. For a good price.

I'm pretty sure it's the same model as my prievious EL Patron,and should have the same 4 clicks.

I know that the gun will still function,without that first click.

But it still bugs me,that it's not there.


Where's BC Rider ,when you need him:)
Click to expand...

Ref the bottom of your frame; (where your trigger is) in that image.
The big screw on the flat spring is your sear/bolt spring.
Tighten that one hard and loc tite her.

The other small one is your loading gate plunger spring. Leave that one alone.
If you can, see if your hammer has 3 spurs in the front or 2.
Not all SAA clones are the same. Well they all are but with minor differences. If your hammer has 3 spurs in the front and one underneath, then you SHOULD theoretically hear the distinct 4 #### sound when you draw the hammer.
Tighten the sear/bolt spring screw hard by hand with a dab of blue loctite and reassemble. You said it was loose and that right there would have been the culprit like I said.

See if you now get the desired result.

If it's not working properly now that you put it back together, just take it all out again and follow the video's I posted slowly. Think about the mechanics of what you're doing, it will make sense.

Just FYI the little screw behind the action which is covered up by the backstrap is a spring and screw that pushes your pawl forward, this is attached to the bottom of your hammer spur, IT's what puts tension forward on the pawl which then pushes up and turns your cylinder in time when you #### the hammer ;)
 
Brianma65 said:
View attachment 126105


Seen that one,cattleman two has one notch.

Mine has two.
Click to expand...

If you insert the cylinder pin all the way in to the 2nd notch, you are enabling a safety feature so the hammer will not drop.

I did a strip down/slicking up thread a while back... Not sure if it'll help.

https://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/showthread.php/1349198-Slicking-up-an-Uberti-1873-Cattleman?highlight=slicking
 
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