No first click on my Uberti El Patron?
- Thread starter Brianma65
- Start date
Travis Bickle
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Upper Lower Middle Alberta
As long as your cylinder is turning properly when you #### the hammer then there is enough tension.
I would say thread it in until it is flush with the frame should be good to go.
All that screw does is retain a spring which pushes the pawl forward in it's channel in the frame. It pushes it forward to ensure that it pokes out of it's little channel and engages the cylinder to turn it in time with the cocking of the hammer.
If that spring was not in there, you would #### the hammer and the pawl would just ride straight up in its channel and not push forward/out of its channel and engage the cylinder notches ie you would #### the hammer and it would not turn the cylinder.
Did you strip out your hammer and confirm the 3 notches in the front of the hammer and the 4th at the bottom?
Maybe in the #### business lmao!
View attachment 126279View attachment 126281So,I removed the trigger.
Hers the pics.
Now I've got to go and watch 2 hrs of you tube,try and get it back in there.
Starting to think ,three cocks isn't so bad after all..
Travis Bickle
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Upper Lower Middle Alberta
View attachment 126279View attachment 126281So,I removed the trigger.
Hers the pics.
Now I've got to go and watch 2 hrs of you tube,try and get it back in there.
Starting to think ,three cocks isn't so bad after all..
That's a 4 #### hammer alright!
Is it just me or does the first notch (half ####/first click sound) look a little rounded?
Can you do a close up pic on that?
Also inspect your sear/bolt spring. It may be really worn, if it isn't pushing your trigger back very hard, that may be why it's not snapping under that spur with authori-tah!
Maybe increasing the tension by bending it slightly to give it more tension could help also.
Post a close up pic of that first (top) notch please Sir.
The first one is not as sharp as the other two.Also there's a small pin in there,that I can depress. It's some kinda spring loaded pin.
It pushes out,a small piece of steel,under the firing pin.
You can see that I'm holding it open ,by squeezing it.
That small ,spring loaded pin,takes a fair amount of pressure,to push out.
I. An see this restricting the first click action.
Close ups are difficult,as all I have is an IPhone 6 camera.
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Travis Bickle
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Upper Lower Middle Alberta
That roll pin should be flush with the hammer side if that's what I'm seeing on the image.
That could be impeding the draw of the hammer potentially but I would need to have the gun apart in front of me to be that specific.
If it's sticking out, then drive it flush with a punch that's slightly bigger than the diam of the roll pin.
That could be impeding the draw of the hammer potentially but I would need to have the gun apart in front of me to be that specific.
If it's sticking out, then drive it flush with a punch that's slightly bigger than the diam of the roll pin.
Well I got it all back together and she works as it previously did.
Still got three clicks
I think the gun has been well used.
I have very little experience,but all the internal parts seem well worn.
Also the bluing is worn off the muzzle end of barrel. Lots of holster use maybe?
I might order a new trigger or just shoot it as is.
For some reason , I'm disappointed with the missing click.
Still got three clicks
I think the gun has been well used.
I have very little experience,but all the internal parts seem well worn.
Also the bluing is worn off the muzzle end of barrel. Lots of holster use maybe?
I might order a new trigger or just shoot it as is.
For some reason , I'm disappointed with the missing click.
Travis Bickle
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Upper Lower Middle Alberta
Now that you have passed through the eye of the needle taking her apart and reassembling, you could try and source a new hammer, trigger and sear/bolt spring for it.
Not sure on the parts support for Uberti's. You have to be careful with compatibility between the SAA clones and even Gens.
Sourcing Uberti parts would be ideal for your specific model. However this is Canada and those 3 pieces of the steel could cost more than the f**king gun.....
It could just be the sear edges are worn, spring is tired etc
If you are getting the hammer to actually go to half ####, load ####, 3rd ####/cylinder lock and full #### then the gun is 100% functional.
It does suck that the sear is not snapping back fast/hard enough to give you the first one though
I have the full 7.5" barrel Pietta SAA clone in .357/38 SPL. It does the full 4 clicks. I had to file the front blade down a lot though. At 25 meters it was shooting almost 2 feet low!
Mine had the flat black finish because I'm a cheap bastard. I just prepped it and coated the front blade with flat black engine block paint and baked the frame in the oven to cure it on low temp. Its invincible finish now and you can't even notice the difference between the block paint and original finish!
Replacement Uberti parts can be purchased directly from Taylor's & Co. Shipping might be a little steep from what I can recall when I ordered my parts. Brownells is another course for parts.
Hammers for SAA are not always drop-in parts and the hammer cam would probably need to be fitted for proper timing.
Could be the previous owner was doing a bit of fanning or just shot it a lot?
OP, I'm not trying to be a jerk about this but from the looks of things, you're clearly not trained or comfortable doing this self-repair yourself and for safety reasons, I'd recommend you take it to a competent smith and have it properly repaired so that the pistol is safe to use. Maybe send it off to Rustywood etc. but it would probably cost you close to what you paid for it used in parts and labour BUT you will have a safely functioning pistol. If the pistol is safely functioning with the 3 clicks ie no issues with timing or slipping of the sear etc then it's either live with it, send it off for repairs or flip it on the EE with full disclosure. But that's just my 2cents.
Hammers for SAA are not always drop-in parts and the hammer cam would probably need to be fitted for proper timing.
Could be the previous owner was doing a bit of fanning or just shot it a lot?
OP, I'm not trying to be a jerk about this but from the looks of things, you're clearly not trained or comfortable doing this self-repair yourself and for safety reasons, I'd recommend you take it to a competent smith and have it properly repaired so that the pistol is safe to use. Maybe send it off to Rustywood etc. but it would probably cost you close to what you paid for it used in parts and labour BUT you will have a safely functioning pistol. If the pistol is safely functioning with the 3 clicks ie no issues with timing or slipping of the sear etc then it's either live with it, send it off for repairs or flip it on the EE with full disclosure. But that's just my 2cents.
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I'm ok with disassembleing and reassembleing.
But wouldn't want to try and do grinding ,cutting ,etc.
I guess I should have asked more questions,when I was buying it. Thanks
Would you describe this gun,as in,excellent condition?
But wouldn't want to try and do grinding ,cutting ,etc.
I guess I should have asked more questions,when I was buying it. Thanks
Would you describe this gun,as in,excellent condition?
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Well I've looked at pics of new hammers,
Mine looks to worn out compared to the new one.
The cost of a new hammer and springs are $150 US shipped. (192 cad)
I paid $600 for the gun.
I think I'll list it on the EE for $400 + shipping.
I'll give full disclosure.
At the end of the day, the gun still locks up and functions.
Lots of info online,about missing first click,appears to be no issues with function.
But it's not what I wanted.
Thanks for all the help,mr. Bickle
Mine looks to worn out compared to the new one.
The cost of a new hammer and springs are $150 US shipped. (192 cad)
I paid $600 for the gun.
I think I'll list it on the EE for $400 + shipping.
I'll give full disclosure.
At the end of the day, the gun still locks up and functions.
Lots of info online,about missing first click,appears to be no issues with function.
But it's not what I wanted.
Thanks for all the help,mr. Bickle
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It could be worn springs and/or worn safety notch on the hammer or could be worn trigger or a combination of them. A worn safety notch can be restored but that's better left for someone who knows what they're doing else too deep a notch and you'll may need a new hammer.
I wouldn't sell it just yet without letting someone have a look first ie a fellow CGNer who's familiar with SAA pistols.
Just out of curiosity, I noticed your El Patron has a flat trigger spring. All the Wolff trigger springs I've seen have been the wire type, not the flat ones. Does Wolff even make flat ones?
I wouldn't sell it just yet without letting someone have a look first ie a fellow CGNer who's familiar with SAA pistols.
Just out of curiosity, I noticed your El Patron has a flat trigger spring. All the Wolff trigger springs I've seen have been the wire type, not the flat ones. Does Wolff even make flat ones?
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Thanks for the advice, but problem is, there's nobody around here, that I know of, who knows enough about these guns.It could be worn springs and/or worn safety notch on the hammer or could be worn trigger or a combination of them. A worn safety notch can be restored but that's better left for someone who knows what they're doing else too deep a notch and you'll may need a new hammer.
I wouldn't sell it just yet without letting someone have a look first ie a fellow CGNer who's familiar with SAA pistols.
Just out of curiosity, I noticed your El Patron has a flat trigger spring. All the Wolff trigger springs I've seen have been the wire type, not the flat ones. Does Wolff even make flat ones?
So I'd have to ship it away.
Shipping both ways,parts,labor is probably going to more than what it's worth.
I don't know, maybe I'm better to cut my losses and just buy a new one.
Which I should of done in the first place
That piece of angled steel pin is the hammer cam. It controls the bolt unlocking and locking on the cylinder.
If you were in the GTA, I could help you out some.
