Lok-tite necessary on rings??

MD

MD

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I just remounted two scopes, one is a new scope in older Burris Z-Rings and and other is an older scope in new Z-rings. Before sighting in I wonder if it is necessary to put Lok-Tite on the threads?

If so what colour?
 
I've never put Loctite on any scope rings I've used, and this includes hard-recoiling hunting rifles. I've used it (the 242 - Blue version) on scope bases on guns with heavy recoil. The one thing I've done when mounting a scope in rings is to put some rosin on the inside of the rings before tightening them down to prevent any slippage of the scope in the rings. With the ring screws, I just cinch them down to hand tight--probably 20-25 in.-lbs.
 
Never on ring screws. Check the suggested torque specs for your scope and don't go over it. Some rings suggest 25 in-lbs but some scopes only recommend 15. Over torquing rings can result in a damaged scope tube.
 
South Pender said:
I've never put Loctite on any scope rings I've used, and this includes hard-recoiling hunting rifles. I've used it (the 242 - Blue version) on scope bases on guns with heavy recoil. The one thing I've done when mounting a scope in rings is to put some rosin on the inside of the rings before tightening them down to prevent any slippage of the scope in the rings. With the ring screws, I just cinch them down to hand tight--probably 20-25 in.-lbs.
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Thanks.


I don't have a torque measuring device, I just go hand tight too.

Been doing it like that for years too, but I was curious if Lok-Tite would help or not.
 
I have heard some people say that the threads should be lubed, maybe wax or something similar to prevent false reading on a torque screw driver due to friction. I have never had a problem with any scopes I have mounted, I use a calibrated screw driver that measures in one inch/pound increments. But I would never use lock tight on ring screws, scope bases yes.
 
Purple is fine, breaks loose with very little effort. Have always used it and have never had any issues with them coming loose or stripping screws if changing scopes. I think many are unaware there are different grades of locite for a wide range or applications and just think of red loctite, nothing fancy at all about scope ring screws. Blues fine too, neither will hurt anything and you wont have trouble removing them. Not necessary if torqued properly but not detrimental at all and cheap insurance.
 
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MD, guntite as in the green locktite product will save you any agrovation that may appear.
I know I sleep better at night knowing my ring are locked in tight ;)
As for how tight...I go gooden tight, must be the German in me.
The Snow Geese are back btw...
Rob
 
Red Loctite only if you are selling it someone you don't like... and then make sure the scope is canted too.

For yourself - no Loctite is needed just make sure the screws are good and tight... and check them occasionally.
 
Crashman said:
I have heard some people say that the threads should be lubed, maybe wax or something similar to prevent false reading on a torque screw driver due to friction. I have never had a problem with any scopes I have mounted, I use a calibrated screw driver that measures in one inch/pound increments. But I would never use lock tight on ring screws, scope bases yes.
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Where do you get a calibrated screw driver?

I have seen the Wheeler torque screw driver, is that what you mean?
 
I don't use loctite on scope ring fasteners.....

Crashman said:
I have heard some people say that the threads should be lubed, maybe wax or something similar to prevent false reading on a torque screw driver due to friction.
Click to expand...

Unless you have the required torque spec specifically for a lubed fastener you should always torque dry. Lubing a fastener lessens the amount of torque required and you will over-torque it using the normal 'dry' torque value.
 
If it has threads it gets some form of thread locker, usually blue(medium strength or less) and never had an issue.
 
Wester said:
Where do you get a calibrated screw driver?

I have seen the Wheeler torque screw driver, is that what you mean?
Click to expand...

Any good auto parts store should have a torque screw driver, make sure it is inch/pounds. I had a Wheeler, found it inconsistent.

Also, the comment about lube on the threads is not something I have done before, I mentioned it more for discussion and I am happy to hear others experience/expertise on the subject.
 
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