1911 advice

Frank, you asked one of the toughest questions on CGN . Lol
Which gun is better. You’ll leave more confused than when you came. Ha ha
Sometimes you get lucky ,sometimes you don’t.

For me, it needs a few things.
It has to be accurate ( printing small groups accurate)
Adjustable sights
Reliable
The Rem checked all those boxs.
But I still wasn’t satisfied,because it’s not a god dam Colt.. ha ha

In all reality, they’re basically the same thing, some just has a few more features.
If that S&W E caught your attention,go for it, it should be a very nice gun.
 
Personally I like a 1911 to have a high grip beavertail, an undercut trigger guard, and a small magwell that extends the grip about 1/4". They just fit in my hands better when set up that way. Stuff like that can be expensive to have a gunsmith do after the fact, so it's something to consider as well. It might be worth at least holding a couple differently set up ones to see what feels best to you before you buy one.
Kristian
 
I have an R1 gov't model for wild bunch shooting (enhanced not allowed). Love it, shoot exclusively lead out of it and in a few thousand rds, never had a single issue
 
Colt Combat Elite (non enhanced) which I got used for $650 a couple of years ago. All it needed was a spring kit Wilson Combat and it is a tack driver. Sometimes you can find good deals in the EE.

Mine was from a LGS that I bought from a consignment.
 
I don't find them comparable at all, Springfield's a better built pistol. My "value" choice would definitely be the Ruger SR1911. I'm buying the new 9mm target in the next couple of days, thankfully I was able to hold off until Ruger produced something in 9mm that wasn't lightweight.

Out of curiosity, and since I own the Springfield (which is awaiting transfer to it's new owner) and used to own the Ruger and the Remington; I must ask, "Springfield is a better built pistol" - how ? All three of them exhibited the SAME fit and finish and to my eye - and I am a VERY picky bastard - there was little to separate them beyond the odd machining mark here and there which would vary from pistol to pistol. They all looked, felt and shot similar and ALL the parts (with the exception of the barrel, slide and frame) in the three were MIM. Ofcourse, if you want mostly machined small parts and a very tight fit one will need to look much over $1000 (Les Baer, Wilson Combat, Ed Browne et. al) or much under (older Norincos - hit or miss with quality). Anything in the middle is just a wash for me - they are all pretty much mediocre run of the mill copies that are built with the the lowest production cost so as to maximize margins. Hence my comment to get a Colt as in this price bracket all the manufactures use MIM parts and decent fitting and finishing - at least you are getting a 1911 from the one that started it all, even if it is a cheapened version of the original.

So, what would I do if I were in the market for a 1911 today ? I would budget for ~$1500 and either wait for a good deal on a used top tier gun or just get a Norinco and use the frame & slide as a base to build a custom gun. In my view, no point spending $1000-$1200 on a mediocre pistol that one will have to change parts/ get work done on anyway to make perfect. YMMV.
 
You need to give it a break JP. You sound like a broken record on this subject. The STI's are well made, accurate and durable....get over it.

While I'm not sure I'd be a buyer today at $2250 when they retailed for $1450 they represented tremendous value.

Even if you cry about it, the plastic is still there, one member friend of mine, had is trigger exploded in pièces in a regular shooting session, from that day i understood that plastic dont belong on a 1911...
Cant pay the asking price for a STI with plastic parts...
 
Out of curiosity, and since I own the Springfield (which is awaiting transfer to it's new owner) and used to own the Ruger and the Remington; I must ask, "Springfield is a better built pistol" - how ? All three of them exhibited the SAME fit and finish and to my eye - and I am a VERY picky bastard - there was little to separate them beyond the odd machining mark here and there which would vary from pistol to pistol. They all looked, felt and shot similar and ALL the parts (with the exception of the barrel, slide and frame) in the three were MIM. Ofcourse, if you want mostly machined small parts and a very tight fit one will need to look much over $1000 (Les Baer, Wilson Combat, Ed Browne et. al) or much under (older Norincos - hit or miss with quality). Anything in the middle is just a wash for me - they are all pretty much mediocre run of the mill copies that are built with the the lowest production cost so as to maximize margins. Hence my comment to get a Colt as in this price bracket all the manufactures use MIM parts and decent fitting and finishing - at least you are getting a 1911 from the one that started it all, even if it is a cheapened version of the original.

Modified...


I wouldn't want to get banned...
 
Last edited:
Frank, you asked one of the toughest questions on CGN . Lol
Which gun is better. You’ll leave more confused than when you came. Ha ha
Sometimes you get lucky ,sometimes you don’t.

For me, it needs a few things.
It has to be accurate ( printing small groups accurate)
Adjustable sights
Reliable
The Rem checked all those boxs.
But I still wasn’t satisfied,because it’s not a god dam Colt.. ha ha

In all reality, they’re basically the same thing, some just has a few more features.
If that S&W E caught your attention,go for it, it should be a very nice gun.

Hahaha yeah I know, the struggle is real though
 
I echo the praise in this thread for the r1 enhanced. I have a commander that way outperforms it's price point. Under a grand from irunguns!

Never did business by fear of getting back at with currency exchange customs fees and such. Any translation of a 1000S USD business with them today ?
 
I run guns is great to deal with.

Go on their website, if it’s not in Canada, it’s gonna cost you $25 US extra,for shipping.

So price of gun + $25 Us, convert to Cad.

Then once it gets to Canada, it’s 5% gst + shipping, to your door.
 
Never did business by fear of getting back at with currency exchange customs fees and such. Any translation of a 1000S USD business with them today ?

At least 80% of my purchases are now going to IRG's (US website). Even with the weak Canadian dollar you'd be hard pressed to find better prices in Canada (although it happens from time to time). To estimate your final price use the following formula:

ITEM USD + $25 USD = TOTAL USD ---> CONVERT TO CAD + 2.5% (credit card foreign exchange fee) = TOTAL CAD + $30 CAD SHIPPING (may be more for larger items) + 5% TAX = FINAL TOTAL CAD.

*You can save on the foreign exchange fee by applying for the Rogers, Fido or Home Trust credit cards.
 
Back
Top Bottom