What is the easiest way to strip this wood?
- Thread starter Gnome75
- Start date
verminaard
CGN Regular
- Location
- SW Bantario
Another vote for citristrip.
Just to be clear. Did your Citori have that traditional Browning high gloss epoxy type finish, ?? and the 3M Safest Stripper softened that original browning finish so it came off without serious scrapping and cursing. I know Polystripper won't touch the epoxy finishes like Browning and Remington and Winchester use. So I would like to know exactly how well this 3m stuff works and what your method is.
I used to burn the epoxy finishes off with the very judicious use of a blow torch. The intense high heat bubbles it up, when it cools it is very brittle and chips off fairly easy. But if this 3m stuff works well I would rather go this route.
To the Op as not to high jack your thread. Your stock can be stripped with any good paint/varnish remover. lather it on let it sit until it starts to bubble up. Use gloves and course steel wool to remove the old finish. Use a tooth brush on the checkering. You could also use a small FINE wire brush, but care must be taken not to damage the checkering with wire brushes.
Forget the Linseed oil boiled or other wise. Get yourself a can of pure TUNG oil from Lee Valley Tools. Apply in thin coats, pure tung oil takes days if not more to dry, be patient. use #0000 steel wool to take it down if you get it on to thick and it clouds up.
Circa 1850 and linseed oil. I’ve resurrected a few with that combo. Took the WW2 Russian tank primer paint off three RIA .22’s and linseed oiled them. Aside from the body putty used to fill some defects, they turned out great. YMMV
Yes, it had that thick high gloss (looks like plastic, don't know if it's epoxy based) finish on it. It took three to four days of application, scrub, rinse and repeat, probably twice a day, letting the stripper do it's thing for 12 hours each time. Each application softened the finish a little deeper until it was finally down to bare wood. 3M makes scrubbing pads that are companion to the stripper.
Ya it was time consuming for sure, but worth it. I was pretty puckered up doing it. It was a pricy acquisition to begin with and I had no idea what kind of wood I would discover under the finish.
M
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Doing a BPS stock set right now.
OMG...........schtickie muck.
Maybe I'll try the "lather them up" and let them set a while.
Finding the Circa is drying up.
Thought I'd put some colour into the wood?
Or just put some clear chit on it and forget about the raysist cawmint?
OMG...........schtickie muck.
Maybe I'll try the "lather them up" and let them set a while.
Finding the Circa is drying up.
Thought I'd put some colour into the wood?
Or just put some clear chit on it and forget about the raysist cawmint?
Beautiful work. Thank you for the pics. You did a fantastic job. It gives me ideas for my Remmy 1100.
The most straightforward way to remove an old finish from a stock is with paint stripper such as Circa 1850 or Heirloom, which are available at CT, Home Depot and paint stores. These products are very effective. Some are available as a pourable gel and this tends to stick better to angled surfaces. Citristrip doesn't contain methylene chloride and is safe to use indoors but it may require more applications. If using a caustic paint stripper such as those referred to, be sure to use thick rubber gloves as latex or nitrile gloves do not provide adequate protection. Safety glasses should be used. Wear long sleeve shirts as this stuff burns the skin.
Apply the stripper to the finish and let sit for five to ten minutes. Then use a paint stripper pad. They come in heavy duty, medium etc. Rubbed on the stock with the stripper applied, the pads remove the finish very effectively, even from checkering. A finer stiff brush may be needed to completely remove the finish from checkering. A second application may be needed in stubborn places. The stripper dries within a short time and sanding can be done where required. Do not sand over checkering.
Some stocks, especially old ones, may have a lacquer finish. Lacquer remover can be used but I've found that paint stripper works on just about any finish.
Apply the stripper to the finish and let sit for five to ten minutes. Then use a paint stripper pad. They come in heavy duty, medium etc. Rubbed on the stock with the stripper applied, the pads remove the finish very effectively, even from checkering. A finer stiff brush may be needed to completely remove the finish from checkering. A second application may be needed in stubborn places. The stripper dries within a short time and sanding can be done where required. Do not sand over checkering.
Some stocks, especially old ones, may have a lacquer finish. Lacquer remover can be used but I've found that paint stripper works on just about any finish.
With Tung oil, I use it like Tru oil just spread a thon coat with a cloth of foam brush, run it in with your hand, will smooth out and dry as you run in, let sit a few hrs, repeat, till you get it the way you want it, will take a few -I have done 10 on hi end stuff, if you have checkering, have a clean soft tooth brush to brush the oil out of the checkering, you don't want very much in there. the more you put on the higher gloss you will get.
If it is too glossy, when you are done , rub it out with compound or 0000 steel wool, very lightly
If it is too glossy, when you are done , rub it out with compound or 0000 steel wool, very lightly
I use this EZstrip stuff I got at Home Depot, I use it inside my garage so I wanted something with no fumes. Spray it on and let it sit, takes most everything off. I got it because it was safe on plastic and I was stripping a plastic shotgun stock someone had artistically painted a horrible green color. 
Tung oil is the gear. Boiled linseed has little or no waterproofness(is that a word) another vote for 1850 stripper and one of those Princess Auto black plastic brushes for the checkering. Thin the first few coats of tung oil with mineral spirits 50/50 it will penetrate much better. Then two @full strength. dry thoroughly between the thinned coats but not so much on the full strength coats Buff the chit out of each coat and you'll get a low luster durable finish that can be easily repaired.
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