BCL 102 stripped receiver set thread

Just shoot it a bit. I prefer the take down pins don’t start loose as they tend to loosen further with use and I hate rattling upper/lowers. My best AR10 rifles require a slight tap with a tool for take down.

believe me, i dislike loose take down pins as much as I dislike takedown pins too tight. I prefer them to be in spec.
 
I still can't believe they don't anodize it. I've had tea that came in anodized aluminum container. Can't anodize a $800 reciever? I wonder what the warranty on the reciever sets will be.
 
I still can't believe they don't anodize it. I've had tea that came in anodized aluminum container. Can't anodize a $800 reciever? I wonder what the warranty on the reciever sets will be.

Neither can I. But they have obviously prioritised price above quality. My receiver set will be going out for anodizing after fitting all the parts and function testing. And getting rid of that stupid griffin.
 
Neither can I. But they have obviously prioritised price above quality. My receiver set will be going out for anodizing after fitting all the parts and function testing. And getting rid of that stupid griffin.

I would suggest getting the CeraKote finish off prior to fitting of the parts as it is about .002 thick.
We have done a few of these now. By that I mean stripping of the CeraKote, deburring all of the sharp edges, blending out the ton of tooling marks and then anodizing the upper and lower.
 
I would suggest getting the CeraKote finish off prior to fitting of the parts as it is about .002 thick.
We have done a few of these now. By that I mean stripping of the CeraKote, deburring all of the sharp edges, blending out the ton of tooling marks and then anodizing the upper and lower.

What do you charge for this, I would be interested
 
I would suggest getting the CeraKote finish off prior to fitting of the parts as it is about .002 thick.
We have done a few of these now. By that I mean stripping of the CeraKote, deburring all of the sharp edges, blending out the ton of tooling marks and then anodizing the upper and lower.

That was my plan, I was going to run it through my blast cabinet.
 
$150.00 plus tax and shipping if required for the upper and lower. Assuming you supply us the completely stripped upper and lower.
IF we have to do all of the disassembly and re-assembly that takes more time and time is money.

Well when I drive thru on my way to Wainwright ill have to drop off my 102 set :)
 
I'm, interested as well. How about to install the barrel (It already comes with a headspaced bcg).

We are only tooled up for standard AR10 rifles. Not having taken 1 of these apart makes it hard to say. All we have had to do with these is the stripping of the CeraKote and anodizing the raw aluminum. I would think it can't be rocket science to assemble 1 of these, it is after all NEA
 
I would suggest getting the CeraKote finish off prior to fitting of the parts as it is about .002 thick.
We have done a few of these now. By that I mean stripping of the CeraKote, deburring all of the sharp edges, blending out the ton of tooling marks and then anodizing the upper and lower.

I am down for this, when I get my stripped set I will reach out!!
 
I still can't believe they don't anodize it. I've had tea that came in anodized aluminum container. Can't anodize a $800 reciever? I wonder what the warranty on the reciever sets will be.

I gather it doesn't make sense to anodize and then cerekote. From what I've read it may work over an anodized surface but many recommend blasting it off prior to cerekote. I'm not that familiar with Cerekote but it does seem to add hardness as the finish.

I'll see how it holds out once I get mine. Hopefully it's not an issue.
 
I gather it doesn't make sense to anodize and then cerekote. From what I've read it may work over an anodized surface but many recommend blasting it off prior to cerekote. I'm not that familiar with Cerekote but it does seem to add hardness as the finish.

I'll see how it holds out once I get mine. Hopefully it's not an issue.

I'm trying mine out with a carbine spring and buffer tomorrow. I'll see how she goes, I fear it wont cycle but you never know...
 
I gather it doesn't make sense to anodize and then cerekote. From what I've read it may work over an anodized surface but many recommend blasting it off prior to cerekote. I'm not that familiar with Cerekote but it does seem to add hardness as the finish.

I'll see how it holds out once I get mine. Hopefully it's not an issue.

That explanation would make the most sense. Im sure either of these finishes would be fine for the type of use these rifles would realistically see.
 
I gather it doesn't make sense to anodize and then cerekote. From what I've read it may work over an anodized surface but many recommend blasting it off prior to cerekote. I'm not that familiar with Cerekote but it does seem to add hardness as the finish.

I'll see how it holds out once I get mine. Hopefully it's not an issue.

Of the various different types of spray on coatings we feel that CeraKote is the most durable and unlike many that are simply a form of spray on plastic, CeraKote is far less prone to chipping.
Anodizing of aluminum changes the actual surface hardness of the aluminum substrate by turning the outer surface to aluminum oxide which is only slightly softer than a diamond and depending on the anodization can penetrate the substrate several thousandths of an inch deep. CeraKote is applied to the surface of the metal, it does not penetrate so is only sitting on the surface. It adds zero hardness factor to the substrate. Doing a Rockwell hardness test on a piece of 6061 that is not anodized but Cerakoted showed zero change in the materials hardness. Anodized the same material shows a significantly higher surface hardness.

The great part about CeraKote is that it can hide many surface imperfections where anodizing will actually make these same imperfections really noticeable.

Blasting the surface of the material is necessary to get the CeraKote to adhere IF the parts have been oiled or not chemically stripped. Doing an anodized part is not a problem assuming that the part being anodized is not oiled when finished. When we have aluminum parts that are to be CeraKoted, we do not "finish" oil the parts so the aluminum is then perfectly suited to be CeraKoted. The parts to be coated are not exposed to any oils or contamination after they come out of the tank.
Fingerprint oils are sufficient to prevent a perfect bond of the epoxy coating, so significant care in handling is required.

A CeraKote finish is far better than raw aluminum but will never be as good as anodizing when it comes to increasing surface hardness.
CeraKote over anodized will provide the best in durability for resistance to wear as once the CeraKote finish is worn through the anodized surface is still intact.
 
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