FirearmsEnthusiast
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- Kingston, ON
May want to call John at Marstar and see what he has - they have a fairly good selection of MG34 parts and accessories and no export issues!
The MG34 Repair and Troubleshooting Thread
- Thread starter DILLIGAF
- Start date
May want to call John at Marstar and see what he has - they have a fairly good selection of MG34 parts and accessories and no export issues!
FirearmsEnthusiast
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- Kingston, ON
It's often the export that is the issue. Ordering from the USA is the toughest. Firearm parts from other countries may be the way to go. RCMP has some information published online as well that you may want to Google.
The problem with the MG34 original bolts is that they require extensive modification - including milling - to be converted to semi-auto, and also need new sear parts.
An overview of the modifications can be found at (remove space after h):
h ttp://www.projectguns.com/mg343.html
I tried to buy a complete bolt right from TNW last year but they said they couldn't ship a complete one up here.( ITAR?) I am not sure if they would ship a modified back half of the bolt as that's the part that needs the most work. they will ship the sear and ring and other parts though
I've gotten bolts from overseas but most of them are either demilled or are in a poor condition but are good for parts. I needed some rollers and that was the only way I could get them. Others on here were able to get some parts from BRP they just had to fill out a form
FirearmsEnthusiast
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- Kingston, ON
Yep - I ordered parts from Brian at a BRP Guns - he asks Canadians to get an International Import Certificate and to clearly indicate on the description that the parts are for a semi-auto TNW MG34, so not to be classified as machine gun parts. Global Affairs issues this for free in a few days - google the process. Send to Brian and put in an order and pay by Credit card over the phone and he ships. Brian uses the Import Cert to complete his export paperwork. All good.
Well its not like North Sylva will ever help us! they pretty much sold us Prohibited devices that could of killed someone and they told us to pound sand instead of fixing them.
And to top it off the NS bag lickers tell us to give it a rest !!!
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FirearmsEnthusiast
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- Kingston, ON
Once you get them humming...they’re amazing! A labour of love sadly, but neat to see an 80+ year old collection of mismatched parts, likely captured by the Russians, come together and work!
Way, way, way back in time I had three CA MG34 in 8mm and they all ran like a top, rare was the time of any hic up (usually was the ammo) so to see you guys working endlessly to trouble shoot these new made guns, buy parts, machine, fabricate and fit and tirelessly fix them shows you certainly are dedicated to them.
How were they converted to be semi auto only? Was it as simple as having the auto trigger welded solid so it could not function?
If that was the case then I could see them running reliably as all the parts would still be 100% how the Germans designed it to work
The problem with our guns is the bolts and trigger groups are basically A Frankenstein assembly made to work in a closed bolt
I do get it that the TNW guns are a Frankenstein mash up of parts but holy hell for what you guys pay to get one then endless #### with it to fire reliably while not beating itself to death shows a level of dedication and "stick to itness" I could not muster. The whole Liberal classification BS brought about the end of the good old days of a MG34 being just a rifle.
Well I need some help. This is pissing me off !!!
So If I ride the CH home slowly My bolt cocks and fires...
If I charge the MG and let the bolt slam home the striker fires by itself...
Should the sear be more squared off ? Maybe the sear spring is to light ?
WTF Im I missing or doing wrong ? everything is in spec for what i can mesure. And I found noi blueprints online for s detail view of teh SA parts.
So If I ride the CH home slowly My bolt cocks and fires...
If I charge the MG and let the bolt slam home the striker fires by itself...
Should the sear be more squared off ? Maybe the sear spring is to light ?
WTF Im I missing or doing wrong ? everything is in spec for what i can mesure. And I found noi blueprints online for s detail view of teh SA parts.
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FirearmsEnthusiast
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- Kingston, ON
Sorry to hear about the problem DILLI.
What does the bolt do when out of the gun - see post 290. Can you #### it and trip the sear consistently?
If so, then I would turn my suspicions to the trigger group - maybe something caught under the trigger bar that is causing the roller to trip the sear?
Check the bolt out of the gun first and let us know. Your sear looks a bit “Rounder” than mine...
What does the bolt do when out of the gun - see post 290. Can you #### it and trip the sear consistently?
If so, then I would turn my suspicions to the trigger group - maybe something caught under the trigger bar that is causing the roller to trip the sear?
Check the bolt out of the gun first and let us know. Your sear looks a bit “Rounder” than mine...
FirearmsEnthusiast
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- Kingston, ON
DILLI
Is that a chip on the sear at (1) in the photo I annotated?
Also, there seems to be a slight bend in the sear at (2) - mine appears flatter across the face of the sear I believe...
Attachments
Hi DILLIGAF. sorry to hear your still having problems. I would resurface the face of the sear, rotate the sear ring so the sear rides on the side with the least damage and when you put the bolt back together operate the bolt by hand until the sear ring cuts a groove in the face of the sear. also make sure the back of the sear is flush with the bolt like i mentioned in post #280.
good luck buddy. let us know how you make out with it.
good luck buddy. let us know how you make out with it.
