Who Does Salt Annealing?

Do you use a mixture or just the potassium nitrate?

I'm at work and can't watch the vid.

I use falling leaf stump remover after I put it through a re-crystalization process.
Do not attempt to do any stump remover brands without doing the re- crystalization, it will cake up and make a mess.
The kn03 must be pure.
 
I just used mine for the first time yesterday. I annealed about 45 peices of 270win brass. I'm going to do some 7.62x39 later today and maybe some 223. So far I'm very happy with the results...very easy to get the hang of.
 
Reading this thread has me interested and intrigued.
My actual annealing process, does not ‘seem’ to have the consistent repeatable results this has.
Seriously considering selling my propane annealing machine to get this.

Edit : just googled it and now am seriously interested, i think this may yield annealing results close to the ones found in high end machines.
I wouldn’t want to run it home for some reason or scare of chemicals, but own a commercial space 2 mins from home, i think i’ll have a work bench set up there and get starting!

Do you guys anneal after or before tumbling using this?

Will also get a cheap food dehydrator to quickly dry off cases.
 
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I deprime with universal die, then anneal if its time - dropping hot cases in bucket of water to dissolve salts. Haven't been annealing every time the case gets used. Maybe every third time. I tumble annealed brass in rotary tumbler with SS pins and solution. Dry the brass. Lube and size. Trim, chamfer and wipe off lube. Load powder. Seat bullets. Earlier steps usually done in larger batches of 100 or 200 cases at a time. I always load powder and seat bullets at the same time, one case at a time. Single stage press, rifle cartridges only.
 
I anneal every firing.
Got credit card in hand and ready to order kit.

Would appreciate it if anyone can confirm how this process leaves the inside of the case necks.
As in does it affect carbon and makes the inside sparkling shine, necessiting to lube inside of case necks before sizing them?
Or doesn’t affect carbon and i continue as usual.

Got out of wet tumbling because it made brass too clean (yes it’s a problem), i wouldn’t want my old problems to resurface with this process.
 
I anneal every firing.
Got credit card in hand and ready to order kit.

Would appreciate it if anyone can confirm how this process leaves the inside of the case necks.
As in does it affect carbon and makes the inside sparkling shine, necessiting to lube inside of case necks before sizing them?
Or doesn’t affect carbon and i continue as usual.

Got out of wet tumbling because it made brass too clean (yes it’s a problem), i wouldn’t want my old problems to resurface with this process.

It doesn't clean the case at all. My brass had carbon on the inside of the necks before I annealed and it is still there afterwards.

Didn't get a chance to run my 223 and 7.62x39 last night, maybe later this week. I'll post some photos when I'm done to show how nice they look :cool:
 
Does it emit a smell?
My reload room is fully finished within my home.

The first time I heated up the lee pot it did smoke a bit, though it was from the pot itself and after a few minutes it stopped. I couldn't detect any smell during the annealing session.
 
I have ordered my kit.
I’ll set it up in my commercial warehouse/shop 2.2km from home.

It may suck annealing out of home, but i am very curious to see results as it’s cheap.
I do have annealeez as it is, but torch isn’t always constant heat.

AMP will be here someday, but this year i want to get into service rifle, and that annealer would push my purchase back for another while.
 
Just received my kit that I ordered when this thread started. I now await my Lee pot. Has anyone tried this set up since this thread started. Results TKS
 
Can you share your PID setup?

I put together the one that is shown in many threads here and on other sites, bought the parts from China, and assembled a dual output unit to control my pot and a hot plate to preheat the moulds. I also use it to control the small pot for the annealer. Can take pictures but pretty much the same as what everyone else makes. I use a separate probe for the annealer, not the one used in my lead melt pot.
 
Just received my kit that I ordered when this thread started. I now await my Lee pot. Has anyone tried this set up since this thread started. Results TKS

I have and I am very happy. I've been delayed by work so I will try doing my 7.62x39 cases this week and I'll post some results. Already did a batch of ~50 .270 cases though!
 
Received my kit today, will be trying this this week-end, we'll see if I like it or not.
I'd much prefer an AMP machine, but the price difference is huge.
 
I ran mine for a bit last week. Some 8x57R and 375 Ruger. Both came out nicely done. Maybe a little far down the past the base of the neck but I can adjust the amount of salt in future to reduce how much case goes in the solution. Just dump in water. Take out and put in oven for 20 minutes at 180F and they are perfect.
 
I bought my PID controller and SSR on Ebay. Less than $20 shipping included.

Below the wiring diagram. The heat source would be your Lee lead pot, but you can use the same setup for your own sous-vide cooker, beer brewer etc.
Check the polarity for the thermocouple connections; mine were reversed. Not a big issue; you just need to switch the 2 wires. I built mine inside an old computer power supply case I had laying around.
You can remove or bypass the thermostat built in to the Lee pot, but I just turned mine to max. The PID/thermocouple control the temperature and the Lee thermostat works as a fail safe should the relay get stuck.




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I've been reloading for about a year and a half. I have been using a blowtorch and a diy rotating device. I am looking to start salt annealing to keep everything more consistent.
 
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