What 3 port muzzle break for AR do you use?

MartyK2500

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Just got my brand new barrel in, and when I went to install muzzle break it jammed halfway through and started screwing threads.
Managed to wrench it out (it was hand tight in too), but stripped the first 1/8'' of threads
So I do not want to buy same brake brand again, I know my IBI threads are good tested them with an A2 prior.

I will be ordering a thread repair kit from brownells (I got about 20 dies here but don't have 1/2x28).
It splits in half so you can start off where threads are still good and work your way out.
May as well order another 3 port brake at the same time from another brand this time.

Was wondering, what looks and works good, and has threads that are proper, that you guys use?
 
Was just looking at VG6 stuff at brownells, looks good.
Also tempted by the miculek brake, but would prefer a crush washer setup as I have lost thread real estate.
 
I got the maple ridge one because canada. But my fav is the surefire tunable for the the price

This is the one that pooped on me today.
I have threaded and dealt with many fine thread pipes in my trade (19 years plumber), and had tested IBI threads with an A2, so I don't feel like risking it with them again.

These are my 2 favorite brakes

AR-15 - AAC Single Chamber Muzzle Brake. ( Keeps everything nice and compact with these long NR barrel )
AR10 - Precision Armament M4-72 Severe-Duty Compensator

Good read on brakes https://www.thetruthaboutguns.com/2016/02/jeremy-s/308-muzzle-brake-test/

That AAC looks minimalist for sure!
So far I am leaning towards this one : VG6 PRECISION - AR-15 GAMMA 556 MUZZLE BRAKE 5.56
 
Fortis RED muzzle brake. Extremely effective and it doesn't weigh a tonne.

red-blk-a-640x480.jpg
 
I got a brake from Range Warrior Accessories in Calgary so Canadian made. Prices are good with a lot of selection and the boys are top shelf to deal with.
 
DILLIGAF

You ever tried the VG6 gamma?
It does look nice, will load hot in this 19'' barrel for 77 TMKs, and recoil reduction while keeping it light in front is a concern.
 
That is huge!
Hard to pass my rifle as a service rifle with that on.

I didn't know VG6 existed before the 1st comment I got suggesting the VG6 epsilon.
I'll process my order, VG6 gamma it is, with a thread repair kit, hoping that previous didn't FUBAR'd the thread.

Ordered this kit
https://www. brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/rifle-tools/barrel-tools/ar-15-barrel-thread-restoration-kit-sku080001158-71287-150649.aspx

To repair this muzzle
T7TwlPLh.jpg
 
Those are super nice :)



Had it on my wifes X95 for the longest time, But I stole it for my MS build to keep it as compact as possible.



Oh snap that sucks !

Ya I actually saw your wife's X95 on Instagram and Id like to have one on my X95 also, but I bored the one I bought out to accept 9mm for my 9mm AR. And now they are discontinued and I cant find anymore for purchase

I really like how short and compact they are, there are other ones that are similar from Griffin Armament etc but they have big threads on the outside to mount suppressors or blast shields that don't look as good on a longer barrel that stick out way past the rail like the X95

Really wish I bought more at the time, the price was right also when I bought it.
 
That is huge!
Hard to pass my rifle as a service rifle with that on.

I didn't know VG6 existed before the 1st comment I got suggesting the VG6 epsilon.
I'll process my order, VG6 gamma it is, with a thread repair kit, hoping that previous didn't FUBAR'd the thread.

Ordered this kit
https://www. brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/rifle-tools/barrel-tools/ar-15-barrel-thread-restoration-kit-sku080001158-71287-150649.aspx

To repair this muzzle
T7TwlPLh.jpg

OUCH! Id try to chamfer the outside slightly before and after using that die, it will help with getting it to align with the remaining threads. I have hand held tools that would work perfect for that if the barrel is already installed and you cant get on a lathe

Actually I see your kit you bought is a split die, thats a really good way to do it. Id still clean it up with a slight chamfer after
 
Thanks will do.

I know right, an ugly sight!
Not like I don't have experience threading and bolting stuff at work, and in plumbing we deal with much finer threads than these, that a slight cross thread will mess things fast.

This MRA brake was only handtight before jamming, and once jammed wouldn't back off anymore.
Kinda effs the mood of receiving a new barrel and wanted to shoot it right tonight to test function of new build.
Will go to 2019 I guess.
 
Thanks will do.

I know right, an ugly sight!
Not like I don't have experience threading and bolting stuff at work, and in plumbing we deal with much finer threads than these, that a slight cross thread will mess things fast.

This MRA brake was only handtight before jamming, and once jammed wouldn't back off anymore.
Kinda effs the mood of receiving a new barrel and wanted to shoot it right tonight to test function of new build.
Will go to 2019 I guess.

I have seen some threads that were too tight because of the coating or metal finish that was put on after the threads were cut, also some people do not plug the threads for media blasting before finishing and that can also cause galling. Especially on SS threads with a dissimilar metal being threaded onto them

I also made the mistake once of trying to dry fit one on a barrel before installing for good, it went on fine by hand, but would not come off without a lot of force with wrench. I though I was screwed but it didn't damage the threads as badly as yours did
 
Both muzzle threads and brake threads we're flushed with brake cleaner and wiped clean before dry fit.
I couldn't see any filings, shavings, or media balls (bead blasting?).


I am aware of these tiny balls as Savage 10 receivers got them between factory barrels and receivers, which require extra caution when threading out a Savage barrel from a model 10.
What should I have done different for next time so I can at least chalk this up as learning experience?
 
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