Stag 10 build and range review
- Thread starter griffin86
- Start date
It will be pinned to 5.
Thanx man, your input on these rifles has been invaluable , much appreciated
You’re welcome!
Thanks guys, just ordered some at Nordic Marksman, 15% off Magpul. It doesn't say 6.5 Creedmoor anywhere, but it is the 7.62x51 Nato - .308. So I'm assuming it will work with 6.5 CM
If it’s this one, you’re good to go.
http://www.nordicmarksman.com/PMAG-10-LRSR-GEN-M3-762x51mm-NATO.html
FWIW, we have Faxon gas tubes, they are regular rifle length. They assured us (we asked) that this is what is required. I fully understand the thought behind the Armalite length gas tubes, but to agree, Faxon says and sells regular rifle length tubes.
Could someone help me understand how the gas tube and break fit? I’ve never built a rifle before. I have a Superlative clamp on break and barrel length gas tube. How does the break fit on? Does the hole in the barrel line up with the hole in the break automatically line up? Is it even a hole on the break? Or a big open void? How does a gas tube fit into the receiver?
Newbie questions I know, but it wasn’t covered in the initial post on this thread
Newbie questions I know, but it wasn’t covered in the initial post on this thread
Could someone help me understand how the gas tube and break fit? I’ve never built a rifle before. I have a Superlative clamp on break and barrel length gas tube. How does the break fit on? Does the hole in the barrel line up with the hole in the break automatically line up? Is it even a hole on the break? Or a big open void? How does a gas tube fit into the receiver?
Newbie questions I know, but it wasn’t covered in the initial post on this thread
It's called a gas block. The muzzle break is the thing on the end of the barrel.
The gas block slides over the barrel and secures either by clamping using some socket head cap screws OR by set screws that tighten down onto the barrel. The clamp on blocks are usually a bit larger than the set screw blocks so check dimensions of the interior of your handguard before you choose one over the other. The set screw blocks should be installed so that the screws tighten down into dimples on the barrel. You must add these dimples using a drill bit. It's not as hard as it sounds. You can also just loctite the set screws and hope for the best but I would recommend dimpling.
The hole in the gas block does not automatically line up with the hole in the barrel. You'll notice that the hole in the gas block (top) is directly centered with one of the holes for the set screws (bottom), and by looking through the bottom you can see the small hole in the top. This means if you put the gas block on the barrel upside down you can center the hole in the barrel inside the set screw hole in your gas block. Then you will know the proper distance to set the gas block back from the edge of the gas block journal. You can mark the barrel, or stick a cheap automotive feeler gauge from Princess Auto in the gap to measure it. Then flip your gas block over, reposition it at the proper distance, make sure it's straight up and down and then install it (or proceed to dimpling the barrel).
There are some good videos on YouTube you should watch, it will make a lot more sense than words.
As far as the gas tube, it gets installed into the gas block (there's a roll pin) first. With it secured into the gas block, slide your gas block into position and the gas tube will insert into the hole in the upper. It just slides in. Nothing secures it on the receiver end. It can be pinned in the gas block two ways but only one is correct. There is a shoulder/angle in the gas tube that must be facing the right way for the gas tube to slide into the upper receiver properly.
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Finally got to bring this beast to life this weekend!
IBI DMR profile barrel in 6.5 CM
Lapped upper receiver
JP LMOS HP BCG
Gisselle SSA trigger
Superlative Arms 0.936" set screw gas block
I'm waiting on a spike ind flat wire spring.
Vortex Viper gen II 3-15x44 FFP
Eventually I'd like to find an A2 birdcage length muzzle break.
As far as reliability goes, it was 100%, but I did notice a fair amount of carbon past the shoulder of the cases, so I'm hoping the flat wire spring will keep the bolt in battery a touch longer to minimize that.
If i remember correctly, this gun as pictured weighs around 13lbs with an empty mag.
All shooting was done at 92m (100y).
IBI DMR profile barrel in 6.5 CM
Lapped upper receiver
JP LMOS HP BCG
Gisselle SSA trigger
Superlative Arms 0.936" set screw gas block
I'm waiting on a spike ind flat wire spring.
Vortex Viper gen II 3-15x44 FFP
Eventually I'd like to find an A2 birdcage length muzzle break.
As far as reliability goes, it was 100%, but I did notice a fair amount of carbon past the shoulder of the cases, so I'm hoping the flat wire spring will keep the bolt in battery a touch longer to minimize that.
If i remember correctly, this gun as pictured weighs around 13lbs with an empty mag.
All shooting was done at 92m (100y).
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I am looking for an adjustable clamp on gas block.
.875” - and preferably 1-7/8” long. Bonus points for FDE.
Edit - also looking for AR-10 barrel nut shims...
Nice barrel, is that a McGowen? JP would have the longest adjustable gas block.
I believe they are, their M5 uppers are high tang with the correct threads.
Yes it is a McGowen. I'm pretty happy with it except there is some filings hanging into the bore from drilling the gas port. Not a serious issue imo.
I'll be ordering that handguard from Brownells soon.
