Stag 10 build and range review

I don't think its any of the brands fault 100%, just slight differences in tolerances. the little radius on the barrel journal where is has the shoulder for the gas block is just larger then the bevel or chamfer they put on the gas block. I don't now if there is a mil-spec or any kind of standard for those radius or chamfers, so I cant say who's is too small and who's is too big right? The MRA tool on their lathe could have been worn causing a bigger radius there also, but again I dont know if there is a spec for how large that can be so I can't say for sure the barrel is out of spec

This AR stuff is all supposed to fit together like lego's, it's not always that perfect especially when you mix brands like I did

Most of my other builds I used the same brand barrel and gas block, they came with one dimple aligned with the gas port pre drilled, and in those cases its was lego bolt on and shoot

There is a bigger problem here than you think. If everything is machined to spec there should be a 0.035-0.050" gap between the edge of your gas block and the end of the gas block journal...

The gas block is not supposed to butt up against the edge. There should be space left between the gas block and edge of the journal for the hand guard cap, as per AR milspec even though most of us free float these days. Spacing these gas blocks generally requires use of a feeler gauge between the end of the gas block journal and gas block to recreate the proper gap you measured when you test fit your gas block upside down to line up the holes... If you go back and read through this very thread you'll see a few discussions of this.

I tried to tell you this earlier and you just went on and on about the dimpling lol

You'd be crazy not to return this to MRA. I just did an MRA gas block on a Norinco barrel and with the gas block properly positioned there was a gap. Even Norinco got the machining right lol
 
Got a 6.5 creedmore upper from my brother to play around with.
Has a 20" BSF barrel and epsilon brake..... brownells titanium bcg , MI handguard
doesn't feel super light but I haven't weighed it.
Nervous to shoot the thing after seeing that other BSF barrel explode LOL

on another note.... has anyone here done a build with the Faxon 18.6" barrel from CTSC?
I'm about to grab one of those but haven't seen any comments on the forums yet
 
There is a bigger problem here than you think. If everything is machined to spec there should be a 0.035-0.050" gap between the edge of your gas block and the end of the gas block journal...

The gas block is not supposed to butt up against the edge. There should be space left between the gas block and edge of the journal for the hand guard cap, as per AR milspec even though most of us free float these days. Spacing these gas blocks generally requires use of a feeler gauge between the end of the gas block journal and gas block to recreate the proper gap you measured when you test fit your gas block upside down to line up the holes... If you go back and read through this very thread you'll see a few discussions of this.

I tried to tell you this earlier and you just went on and on about the dimpling lol

You'd be crazy not to return this to MRA. I just did an MRA gas block on a Norinco barrel and with the gas block properly positioned there was a gap. Even Norinco got the machining right lol

I might take your advice if this was my first AR or my first gas block install, but as I have said it is not my first. Just the first barrel that didn't come with at least one dimple already

so I just pulled out 3 of my many uppers that I have here, 1 is a battle arms development barrel and gas block combo, 2 I bought pre assembled from (PSA), the 3rd is a SLR rifleworks combo sold as a set. And all 3 the gas blocks are butted right up against the shoulder on the barrel. There is no gap for an A2 hand guard cap,

So very interesting that according to you, all 3 companies did that wrong and ship out their barrels pre dimpled in the wrong spot.
nrP0Yzr.jpg


So here is what I did on Friday, it took me all of 30 minutes on the manual mill at my friends machine shop.

Took the $4.50 0.75" bore bearing spacer, put it in the vise found center of the threaded hole, swapped out the setscrew for a socket cap bolt. drilled a hole right through to fit a 0.096 gauge pin, that was the tightest fit to my gas port hole in the barrel. Then drilled out the hole in the bolt to 5/32" which is the size SLR recommends to drill for their gas block set screws. And there I have it a home made gas block drilling jig
Oxdwekl.jpg

drilled the first dimple %100 inline across from the gas port
AFsJcsg.jpg

Then I took that gas block to the drill press and used a countersink bit, Id make it larger then check, until what do you know it slid all the way on and lined up, with both the port and the dimple I made
Wqe1oeq.jpg



Im not %100 impressed with the barrel, as I also noticed when installing my muzzle brake, that the flutes in the barrel are off centered. I have a few other brand fluted barrels and they are all in line. Im going to look for something nicer but in the mean time I'll try shooting this

And there is always more then one way to do something, but I tend to agree with guys like this. The gas port and a dimple aligned with it, is the best way to align a gas block. So my preference was to dimple using the gas port for alignment. There might be a gap there might not, but if your aligning to the gas port it doesn't matter
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c-Ff10Fh0c8
 
Last edited:
So back to the rest of my experience assembling

I noticed after charging the rifle a few times, I am getting a little contact between my BCG and buffer tube/receiver extension. I believe its because of the PWS design to support the BCG its shape on the sides stick out more then a regular one. I used a small rounded file to smooth them out and give some clearance, and it doesn't seem to make contact anymore, but I will see what happen when actually shooting. It seemed to be hitting with both the standard .308 buffer weight and spring, but also with the Armaspec SRS possibly too
bmxjcw1.jpg


Other then that it went together pretty straight forward, just waiting on a package from Brownells with my buttstock, and about the pull the trigger on ordering an optic.
puRsfyk.jpg

F2Smqxu.jpg
 
IMG_20190615_105117.jpgIMG_20190615_105115.jpg
IMG_20190411_222541.jpg
Shoot 7 groups. Choosed the best 4 groups.
Stag10 upper lower
JP entprises 308 medium supermatch barrel
JP LMOS BCG
Geissele ssa trigger
dpms buffer set
Superlative bleed off gas block
Precision Armament muzzle

I like the JP barrel. From this result, it is very accurate for me, but the chamber is really really tight. I used the handload i made for my m1a nm and hk mr308, i cannot pull the ammo out with single hand. The brass is shped by the 308 small base die. Federal GMM is ok. Should I bump the shoulder back a bit?
I have another question for the gas block installation. I didnt fllow the Superlative instruction to leave enough space between the gas block to the shoulder. If i do, the gas port will not be pecfect aligned. The gas block and shoulder are not touching, but the space is really realy small. Is that ok?
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20190615_105117.jpg
    IMG_20190615_105117.jpg
    45.7 KB · Views: 531
  • IMG_20190615_105115.jpg
    IMG_20190615_105115.jpg
    46.5 KB · Views: 531
  • IMG_20190411_222541.jpg
    IMG_20190411_222541.jpg
    89.8 KB · Views: 535
So back to the rest of my experience assembling

I noticed after charging the rifle a few times, I am getting a little contact between my BCG and buffer tube/receiver extension. I believe its because of the PWS design to support the BCG its shape on the sides stick out more then a regular one. I used a small rounded file to smooth them out and give some clearance, and it doesn't seem to make contact anymore, but I will see what happen when actually shooting. It seemed to be hitting with both the standard .308 buffer weight and spring, but also with the Armaspec SRS possibly too


Other then that it went together pretty straight forward, just waiting on a package from Brownells with my buttstock, and about the pull the trigger on ordering an optic.

I noticef the same issue with my buffer tube, I read online that a quarter in the buffer tube will fix the issue so I tried it out, and there's no contact and the rifle functions fine.
 
Low mass BCG

Hey guys,

Wondering about the function of a light-weight/low-mass bcg. For example the titanium bcg is 12oz vs the regular 18.4oz. I'm concerned the gas impulse will push it faster than a heavier bcg. And I'm leery of adjustable gas blocks so I'm talking about a regular rifle lenght gas system.

Will it recoil too fast in the buffer tube with a standard gas block, recoil spring and buffer?
Or will the lower mass be easier to decelerate for the spring and it's a non issue?
Should it be used with an H2 buffer?

Cheers,
Phil
 
Hey guys,

Wondering about the function of a light-weight/low-mass bcg. For example the titanium bcg is 12oz vs the regular 18.4oz. I'm concerned the gas impulse will push it faster than a heavier bcg. And I'm leery of adjustable gas blocks so I'm talking about a regular rifle lenght gas system.

Will it recoil too fast in the buffer tube with a standard gas block, recoil spring and buffer?
Or will the lower mass be easier to decelerate for the spring and it's a non issue?
Should it be used with an H2 buffer?

Cheers,
Phil

You will have FTF if you don’t run an adjustable gas block. The BCG will be moving too fast to pick up a round from the magazine.

It can also tear the rim on the brass because it is trying to extract it before the pressure is bled off.
 
Last edited:
You will have FTF if you don’t run an adjustable gas block. The BCG will be moving too fast to pick up a round from the magazine.

It can also tear the rim on the brass because it is trying to extract it before the pressure is bled off.

That's what I'm afraid of. On the other hand, don't you think the dwell time would still be better than a carbine gas tube with standard bcg?
 
Back
Top Bottom