Eventually I'd like to find an A2 birdcage length muzzle break.
I think my MRA barrel has a rough chamber. Pics don’t do it justice. Also that Midwest handguard slides off the barrel nut after 10 rounds.
I think my MRA barrel has a rough chamber. Pics don’t do it justice. Also that Midwest handguard slides off the barrel nut after 10 rounds.
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Also curious if the Aero Precision M5 Atlas S-one handguards are DPMS high tang? Looking for a 15” in FDE. Yesthey are, I just bought one from Saskatoon Gun Works. Darren is a nice guy and very helpful!
I replied in your other thread, but I'll do it here too... If your gas block won't align with the hole in the barrel how exactly do you think the jig is going to make a difference?
First of all, is the hole in the gas block centered with the set screw hole when you look through without the barrel there? Or is the hole in the gas block off center towards the front?
some commented to just use the gas block as a jig. Bad idea IMO!
You guys are unbelievable. It's obvious that the shoulder on the barrel isn't cut square so the gas block won't slide on far enough to center the port hole in the barrel with the port hole in the gas block.
It does appear that the gas block still goes on far enough to allow for proper function, even though it's not perfectly centered. But if the guy asking the question still isn't satisfied with the way it is that's up to him.
Now go get a file and round the inside corner of the gas block off until it will slide on all the way. Problem solved and nobody will ever see it.
Not sure why things need to be so complicated.
Im good man, just sharing my experience and opinion. People don't have to agree with it, but I am not stupid just a little picky maybe.
Sure a file would do, I even have some manual hole countersink tools that I could use. I do CNC programming/setup for my own business for the last 20 years, so I am a little of a perfectionist when it comes to this stuff. I'll just spend some time on the manual mill making it fit up to my standards...Not complicated at all....for me
Personally I would send it back to MRA for a refund or replacement. I have the same MRA barrel(I think) and the clamp on version of the adjustable SLR Sentry 7. I hope I don't run into this issue too as there is no way I am modding a brand new $600 barrel or $225 gas block because the barrel wasn't milled right.
I chose to try one of these kits to install my gas block by the way as it seems pretty fool proof...
http://www.uniquetek.com/product/T1511?mobileback=Search^/search
Here's mine everything is Stag except Faxon 18.6" gunner barrel, gas tube, Ergo adjustable gas block, Aero Atlas 15" MLOK handguard and Magpul STR stock. Don't have a scale but damn it feels light. Just waiting for my reaction rod from Brownells to come in to properly install the barrel and hanguard. Also coming in the mail is a Surefire ProComp muzzle break.
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I don't think its any of the brands fault 100%, just slight differences in tolerances. the little radius on the barrel journal where is has the shoulder for the gas block is just larger then the bevel or chamfer they put on the gas block. I don't now if there is a mil-spec or any kind of standard for those radius or chamfers, so I cant say who's is too small and who's is too big right? The MRA tool on their lathe could have been worn causing a bigger radius there also, but again I dont know if there is a spec for how large that can be so I can't say for sure the barrel is out of spec
This AR stuff is all supposed to fit together like lego's, it's not always that perfect especially when you mix brands like I did
Most of my other builds I used the same brand barrel and gas block, they came with one dimple aligned with the gas port pre drilled, and in those cases its was lego bolt on and shoot