Stag 10 build and range review

I think my MRA barrel has a rough chamber. Pics don’t do it justice. Also that Midwest handguard slides off the barrel nut after 10 rounds.

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I think my MRA barrel has a rough chamber. Pics don’t do it justice. Also that Midwest handguard slides off the barrel nut after 10 rounds.

I did not have any issue my my MI handguard. It actually seems rock solid. Are you sure you torqued everything down correctly and did you use adhesive they provide as well?
 
@ tharkhold: I appreciate it but I'm actually looking for a muzzle break. I'm just want something that is the same length as an A2 FH. Again, thanks for looking though!
 
Honestly I cannot validate that issue. I have the 15" MI mlok HG and its rock solid. If you're thinking about getting one, just do it. You won't be disappointed. Nothing against the other lad, but it seems either like a one of issue or like the HG wasn't installed properly. That said, i don't know becuase I haven't seen any pictures or the gun in person to trouble shoot the issue.
 
Also curious if the Aero Precision M5 Atlas S-one handguards are DPMS high tang? Looking for a 15” in FDE. Yesthey are, I just bought one from Saskatoon Gun Works. Darren is a nice guy and very helpful!
 
Also curious if the Aero Precision M5 Atlas S-one handguards are DPMS high tang? Looking for a 15” in FDE. Yesthey are, I just bought one from Saskatoon Gun Works. Darren is a nice guy and very helpful!

Saweet!

Waiting for credit cards to be replaced...
 
Here's mine everything is Stag except Faxon 18.6" gunner barrel, gas tube, Ergo adjustable gas block, Aero Atlas 15" MLOK handguard and Magpul STR stock. Don't have a scale but damn it feels light. Just waiting for my reaction rod from Brownells to come in to properly install the barrel and hanguard. Also coming in the mail is a Surefire ProComp muzzle break.
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So gas block alignment, I commented in a thread about gas block set screw dimple drilling jigs, some commented to just use the gas block as a jig. Bad idea IMO! As there is a tolerance difference between my barrel and gas black not allowing the gas block to slide on enough to align properly. The chamfer on the inside of the gas block needs to be bigger to slide on more taking up that gap and hopefully aligning properly, I'll try that first and go from there.

Anyone else get similar results with either brand barrel or gas blocks? First time MRA buyer, SLR I have bought a lot of their stuff and everything has been perfect so far besides this fitment with this barrel

MRA barrel and SLR rifleworks gas block
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I replied in your other thread, but I'll do it here too... If your gas block won't align with the hole in the barrel how exactly do you think the jig is going to make a difference?

First of all, is the hole in the gas block centered with the set screw hole when you look through without the barrel there? Or is the hole in the gas block off center towards the front?
 
I replied in your other thread, but I'll do it here too... If your gas block won't align with the hole in the barrel how exactly do you think the jig is going to make a difference?

First of all, is the hole in the gas block centered with the set screw hole when you look through without the barrel there? Or is the hole in the gas block off center towards the front?

On the gas block holes are aligned, I don't know what your trying prove, my point is pretty clear I want that first dimple to be drilled 100% aligned with the gas port in the barrel.
Take the gas block completely out of the picture, just pretend I have not even bought one yet and I want to dimple the barrel.

I posted in here because I have seen some people using the same combo of parts, and I am seeing if they had similar experience or if they have even checked alignment, or if they are even dimpling
 
some commented to just use the gas block as a jig. Bad idea IMO!

If your gas block would line up it could easily be used as a template. If you bought a gas block jig you could mark the barrel, maybe, but you still could not install your gas block...

The point is that your problem is not related to how you mark the barrel for the dimples and is not evidence supporting the above statement you made.
 
You guys are unbelievable. It's obvious that the shoulder on the barrel isn't cut square so the gas block won't slide on far enough to center the port hole in the barrel with the port hole in the gas block.

It does appear that the gas block still goes on far enough to allow for proper function, even though it's not perfectly centered. But if the guy asking the question still isn't satisfied with the way it is that's up to him.

Now go get a file and round the inside corner of the gas block off until it will slide on all the way. Problem solved and nobody will ever see it.

Not sure why things need to be so complicated.
 
You guys are unbelievable. It's obvious that the shoulder on the barrel isn't cut square so the gas block won't slide on far enough to center the port hole in the barrel with the port hole in the gas block.

It does appear that the gas block still goes on far enough to allow for proper function, even though it's not perfectly centered. But if the guy asking the question still isn't satisfied with the way it is that's up to him.

Now go get a file and round the inside corner of the gas block off until it will slide on all the way. Problem solved and nobody will ever see it.

Not sure why things need to be so complicated.

Im good man, just sharing my experience and opinion. People don't have to agree with it, but I am not stupid just a little picky maybe.

Sure a file would do, I even have some manual hole countersink tools that I could use. I do CNC programming/setup for my own business for the last 20 years, so I am a little of a perfectionist when it comes to this stuff. I'll just spend some time on the manual mill making it fit up to my standards...Not complicated at all....for me
 
Im good man, just sharing my experience and opinion. People don't have to agree with it, but I am not stupid just a little picky maybe.

Sure a file would do, I even have some manual hole countersink tools that I could use. I do CNC programming/setup for my own business for the last 20 years, so I am a little of a perfectionist when it comes to this stuff. I'll just spend some time on the manual mill making it fit up to my standards...Not complicated at all....for me

Personally I would send it back to MRA for a refund or replacement. I have the same MRA barrel(I think) and the clamp on version of the adjustable SLR Sentry 7. I hope I don't run into this issue too as there is no way I am modding a brand new $600 barrel or $225 gas block because the barrel wasn't milled right.

I chose to try one of these kits to install my gas block by the way as it seems pretty fool proof...

h**p://www.uniquetek.com/product/T1511?mobileback=Search^/search
 
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Personally I would send it back to MRA for a refund or replacement. I have the same MRA barrel(I think) and the clamp on version of the adjustable SLR Sentry 7. I hope I don't run into this issue too as there is no way I am modding a brand new $600 barrel or $225 gas block because the barrel wasn't milled right.

I chose to try one of these kits to install my gas block by the way as it seems pretty fool proof...

http://www.uniquetek.com/product/T1511?mobileback=Search^/search

I don't think its any of the brands fault 100%, just slight differences in tolerances. the little radius on the barrel journal where is has the shoulder for the gas block is just larger then the bevel or chamfer they put on the gas block. I don't now if there is a mil-spec or any kind of standard for those radius or chamfers, so I cant say who's is too small and who's is too big right? The MRA tool on their lathe could have been worn causing a bigger radius there also, but again I dont know if there is a spec for how large that can be so I can't say for sure the barrel is out of spec

This AR stuff is all supposed to fit together like lego's, it's not always that perfect especially when you mix brands like I did

Most of my other builds I used the same brand barrel and gas block, they came with one dimple aligned with the gas port pre drilled, and in those cases its was lego bolt on and shoot
 
Here's mine everything is Stag except Faxon 18.6" gunner barrel, gas tube, Ergo adjustable gas block, Aero Atlas 15" MLOK handguard and Magpul STR stock. Don't have a scale but damn it feels light. Just waiting for my reaction rod from Brownells to come in to properly install the barrel and hanguard. Also coming in the mail is a Surefire ProComp muzzle break.
roOnYjFl.jpg

is that a stag 15?
 
I don't think its any of the brands fault 100%, just slight differences in tolerances. the little radius on the barrel journal where is has the shoulder for the gas block is just larger then the bevel or chamfer they put on the gas block. I don't now if there is a mil-spec or any kind of standard for those radius or chamfers, so I cant say who's is too small and who's is too big right? The MRA tool on their lathe could have been worn causing a bigger radius there also, but again I dont know if there is a spec for how large that can be so I can't say for sure the barrel is out of spec

This AR stuff is all supposed to fit together like lego's, it's not always that perfect especially when you mix brands like I did

Most of my other builds I used the same brand barrel and gas block, they came with one dimple aligned with the gas port pre drilled, and in those cases its was lego bolt on and shoot

I am new to building AR's but, I suspect this is not a common problem and I am guessing it is likely MRA's issue for either not setting back the lip on the journey further(I have read it is common to have a gap between the lip and the gas block) or using such a large radius. Again though, I am new to this so correct me if I am wrong but, havent read of anyone else having this issue with an SLR gas block and they are one of the most popular options on the market.

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