Stag 10 build and range review

They're simple to use.

Depending on the brand of gauges you have - they may have a cut made on the back end to clear the ejector. Here are some steps

1) take the upper off the lower and secure it in a vice or however you want to

2) take the charge handle out, re-insert the bolt into the upper receiver.

3) pull the bolt rearwards, and insert the go gauge into the chamber. As I mentioned above, if your gauge has a cut out to clear the ejector, align it as you insert the gauge into the chamber so it matches up.

4) using finger pressure on the rear of the bolt carrier assembly, push the bolt forward until it snaps over the rim of the go gauge - at this point the bolt should close, and be a-ok!

5) repeat step 3 with the no-go gauge. Again, using finger pressure, push the bolt forward. It should not close on the no-go gauge.

Easy stuff! Thanks so much! Hoping to fire this monster this weekend (assuming the headspace is in check). Fingers crossed!
 
Being the first rifle I've built, the whole process is kinda terrifying lol. The last thing I want to do is blow my face off - I can't imagine building a rifle and not confirming headspace. I have the Go - NoGo gauges, but I literally have no idea how they work? I'm assuming I install the Go gauge and if the bolt fully seats, I'm good to go? If the NoGo won't allow the bolt to fully seat, again - I'm good to go?

Here, this should help...

https://youtu.be/pcVh-XBOLKg

More info...

https://youtu.be/fj8Ef-BxkVU

https://youtu.be/JODd4h_BWWI

Don't worry, you will be fine as you are taking the correct steps and learning how to do things properly. Personally, I would never fire a rifle I build without checking headspace either. Hope these videos help.
 
Just another day in paradise. I’ve watched about 15 ar10 bolt disassembly videos and I’m scratching my head.

I’ve taken the bolt apart. Removed the ejector roll pin, ejector pin, spring, etc. then reassembled the bolt (minus the ejector related parts) to check headspace. I put my “Go” gauge into the chamber, pushed the BCG and it won’t lock on the gauge. I figured headspace was off. Tried the “NoGo” gauge and it didn’t lock either (good news). I scratched my head.

I then pulled the BCG out of the upper. Took the “go” gauge and popped it under the little tab that holds the cartridge by inserting on a small angle and pushing down, it fits (see first photo) and then put the BCG with the gauge locked in place into the chamber and it full locked into place. I did the same with the “no go” gauge and it wouldn’t lock.

I am unable to get the bolt to lock on either gauge as the little tab on the face of the bolt won’t open/move enough to accept a bullet/gauge? I pushed pretty hard without any luck. But again, if I put the gauge into the bolt prior to inserting, no problem.

EDIT: so after watching a few more YouTube videos, I realize you need to put the go and no go gauges onto the bolt under the extractor prior to trying to check the headspace. So my understanding is that my headspace is all good, as the GO would lock into place and the NOGO would not. But I still need to figure out where this spring came from... keep reading :)

So I took the bolt apart again and found this tiny little spring inside the bolt, and after watching another dozen videos I can’t figure out where the heck it came from??? Where is this tiny spring from?? Perhaps it puts a little tension on that tab that isn’t moving?

The extractor itself already has a small spring in it, surrounded by a rubber gasket of sorts. I tried putting the little spring inside that spring, without luck either?

This might not make any sense. But help, please :)

 
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Just another day in paradise. I’ve watched about 15 ar10 bolt disassembly videos and I’m scratching my head.

I’ve taken the bolt apart. Removed the ejector roll pin, ejector pin, spring, etc. then reassembled the bolt (minus the ejector related parts) to check headspace. I put my “Go” gauge into the chamber, pushed the BCG and it won’t lock on the gauge. I figured headspace was off. Tried the “NoGo” gauge and it didn’t lock either (good news). I scratched my head.

I then pulled the BCG out of the upper. Took the “go” gauge and popped it under the little tab that holds the cartridge by inserting on a small angle and pushing down, it fits (see first photo) and then put the BCG with the gauge locked in place into the chamber and it full locked into place. I did the same with the “no go” gauge and it wouldn’t lock.

I am unable to get the bolt to lock on either gauge as the little tab on the face of the bolt won’t open/move enough to accept a bullet/gauge? I pushed pretty hard without any luck. But again, if I put the gauge into the bolt prior to inserting, no problem.

EDIT: so after watching a few more YouTube videos, I realize you need to put the go and no go gauges onto the bolt under the extractor prior to trying to check the headspace. So my understanding is that my headspace is all good, as the GO would lock into place and the NOGO would not. But I still need to figure out where this spring came from... keep reading :)

So I took the bolt apart again and found this tiny little spring inside the bolt, and after watching another dozen videos I can’t figure out where the heck it came from??? Where is this tiny spring from?? Perhaps it puts a little tension on that tab that isn’t moving?

The extractor itself already has a small spring in it, surrounded by a rubber gasket of sorts. I tried putting the little spring inside that spring, without luck either?

This might not make any sense. But help, please :)


Sounds like you did ok with your Headspace check. Next time take the extractor off too as it makes it easier and is much better for your precision gauges(remember, they are delicate and you shouldn't even let them fall hard into the chamber). Also, checking headspace is much easier to do with the barrel out so, if you ever do another build, check it before you torque in your barrel.

The small spring goes into the large spring in the extractor like you guessed.l(duel extractor spring). You may have to try it both ways but, it will fit as that's where it came from. The O-rings stay where you have them.
 
Thanks a lot guys. I figured it all out late last night. She is ready for her first outing. All back together! Going to zero the scope, break in the barrel, and adjust the gas block. Should be fun!
 
Anyone know where to get the gas port alignment dimple jig/tool? I have 2 barrels to have the gas block aligned, my local gunsmiths don't seem to want the work.


I bought the jig in the link and it worked great, thx for the link jiffx!!

I recently bought a heavy barrel in 6.5 creedmoor, the gas block journal is .934”...Does anyone know where I can get a gas block jig for a heavy barrel .934” gas block journal?? The jig in the link will work up to .750”ish

Cheers
Drunky
 
I bought the jig in the link and it worked great, thx for the link jiffx!!

I recently bought a heavy barrel in 6.5 creedmoor, the gas block journal is .934”...Does anyone know where I can get a gas block jig for a heavy barrel .934” gas block journal?? The jig in the link will work up to .750”ish

Cheers
Drunky

You can always use a clamp on. It’s pretty easy to eyeball them.
 
I bought the jig in the link and it worked great, thx for the link jiffx!!

I recently bought a heavy barrel in 6.5 creedmoor, the gas block journal is .934”...Does anyone know where I can get a gas block jig for a heavy barrel .934” gas block journal?? The jig in the link will work up to .750”ish

Cheers
Drunky

https://slrrifleworks.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=129&product_id=604

Or...

Here, TNA has them in stock right now in Canada...

https://truenortharms.com/ar15_default_store_view/barrel-dimpling-jig.html
 
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TNA was working on getting dimpling jigs in different sizes. Don't know if they've got them in yet or not.

But as griffin says, you could easily use a clamp on gas block.
 
Anyone know where to get the gas port alignment dimple jig/tool? I have 2 barrels to have the gas block aligned, my local gunsmiths don't seem to want the work.



TNA was working on getting dimpling jigs in different sizes. Don't know if they've got them in yet or not.

But as griffin says, you could easily use a clamp on gas block.

Thanks guys, TNA seems to have the .936” jigs in stock and I ordered one.
 
It finally works!

This was a quick 3 shot group. Warm barrel, unsteady rest.

With minimal effort this should really tighten up.

vxOocl4.jpg


9r6SdLK.jpg
 
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Another group. The 'flier' was the first shot of 6. The second and third were at a gong at 300 yds, and the last 3 were 5 sec apart.

I love the Timney trigger.


XdK4Wwp.jpg
 
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How do you like your Trijicon?

Its good, but definitely not suited for the rifle its on. I intend to put a Zeiss 5-25 as soon as my scope mount comes in.

The Trijicon is a beast, it seems built to survive the worst one can throw at it, but considering its a 1-8 FFP the reticle is awful bulky at max zoom. Not a precision scope IMO.

It will likely go on a 223 bullpup or a MS upper.
 
Its good, but definitely not suited for the rifle its on. I intend to put a Zeiss 5-25 as soon as my scope mount comes in.

The Trijicon is a beast, it seems built to survive the worst one can throw at it, but considering its a 1-8 FFP the reticle is awful bulky at max zoom. Not a precision scope IMO.

It will likely go on a 223 bullpup or a MS upper.


Hmm that’s too bad, I might have to go with a S&B 1-8 or Nightforce then. Thanks!
 
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