Stag 10 build and range review

I used the same Brownells rod than you.
The various torque values could also be different according to the receiver manufacturer, handgard manufacturer, etc.
I used a tolerance of 40-80# to achieve proper gas key alignment.
 
I actually have a question about this. I feel stupid asking, as I'm 99% sure I know the answer, but since it's come up..

I bought a barrel extension torque tool from Brownells. It's a little different from a reaction rod, or the example above from TNA. Here it is here: https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-...-barrel-extension-torque-tools-prod72374.aspx

Rather than the rod being installed in the vise (like a reaction rod), you install the barrel nut wrench in the vise instead. You then put the Torque tool into the received, and the torque wrench fits into the back of the extension rod. So your torquing from behind the upper off the rod, rather than at the barrel nut wrench. A little different than most setups.

I installed a Mapleridge Armoury barrel last night with this method. Followed directions, and all seems good. Only question is (here's where I feel ridiculous asking), does torquing from the rear of the fire arm off the rod torque differently from the torque wrench at the front as you would with a reaction rod? It can't, right? I only ask as the Brownells torque rod instructions say "torque to 80 Ft/Lbs" where MRA only wants 35 ft/lbs....

The only think I would be worried about is clamping the barrel nut too hard in the vise.

Use the handguard manufacture’s torque recommendation.
 
I actually have a question about this. I feel stupid asking, as I'm 99% sure I know the answer, but since it's come up..

I bought a barrel extension torque tool from Brownells. It's a little different from a reaction rod, or the example above from TNA. Here it is here: https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-...-barrel-extension-torque-tools-prod72374.aspx

Rather than the rod being installed in the vise (like a reaction rod), you install the barrel nut wrench in the vise instead. You then put the Torque tool into the received, and the torque wrench fits into the back of the extension rod. So your torquing from behind the upper off the rod, rather than at the barrel nut wrench. A little different than most setups.

I installed a Mapleridge Armoury barrel last night with this method. Followed directions, and all seems good. Only question is (here's where I feel ridiculous asking), does torquing from the rear of the fire arm off the rod torque differently from the torque wrench at the front as you would with a reaction rod? It can't, right? I only ask as the Brownells torque rod instructions say "torque to 80 Ft/Lbs" where MRA only wants 35 ft/lbs....
I have the same rod,
I just ground off two flat areas and used it like my .223 reaction rod.

Anywhere in between 30 -80 ft/lbs is good, I always end up around 30- 35 ft lbs.
 
That’s a big relief! Went to bed wondering if this method of torquing required a different amount of force. Didn’t think so :)

Tonight I get the gas block/tube installed, the break, scope/mount and she’s ready for action.

Pretty excited
 
That’s a big relief! Went to bed wondering if this method of torquing required a different amount of force. Didn’t think so :)

Tonight I get the gas block/tube installed, the break, scope/mount and she’s ready for action.

Pretty excited
Hey my method was torquing at the barrel nut, not to sure about your method.
But 30- 80 is just a general guide line that they want you stay within.

I’m pretty sure you can torque 30-40 ft lbs by hand, as long as your not using gorilla force.
 
You guys do realize you could just clamp a socket adapter, power bar, etc. into a vice and use the Brownell's rod like a normal reaction rod right? No need to grind flats into your new rod possibly hurting the temper.

It is best to torque the nut vs the bolt in most applications.
 
Another newbie question. Now that I have the barrel and gas tube installed, the bolt is acting differently, not sure what I did? Or if this is normal?

Before the barrel was installed I could pull the charging handle (with magazine installed) and it would lock itself in a rearward position. I would then depress the bolt release button and the bolt would freely slide forward and back into its natural position in the upper. I would always hold tension on the charging handle when doing this, so it slid forward slowly and controlled (I was worried that without the barrel installed I might damage it by letting it freely slam forward?).

Now that the barrel and gas tube are installed (the only new additions to the action of the BCG) when I pull the charging handle back it locks as usual, then when I release the bolt with the release button (again while holding tension in charging handle so it doesn’t slam) the bolt only slides forward a little bit then gets stuck. I realized it was on the magazine. I drop the magazine and the bolt freely slides forward but it seems to hesitate fitting into the barrel? It doesn’t go all the way into the barrel. Now if I pull the charging handle back and lock the BCG, then depress the release button and let it slam forward it seats into the barrel and all is well.

Is this normal? I’m going to use my go no go gauges tonight. Have to figure out on YouTube how to dissemble the BCG for that first.

Does this sound normal?
 
Another newbie question. Now that I have the barrel and gas tube installed, the bolt is acting differently, not sure what I did? Or if this is normal?

Before the barrel was installed I could pull the charging handle (with magazine installed) and it would lock itself in a rearward position. I would then depress the bolt release button and the bolt would freely slide forward and back into its natural position in the upper. I would always hold tension on the charging handle when doing this, so it slid forward slowly and controlled (I was worried that without the barrel installed I might damage it by letting it freely slam forward?).

Now that the barrel and gas tube are installed (the only new additions to the action of the BCG) when I pull the charging handle back it locks as usual, then when I release the bolt with the release button (again while holding tension in charging handle so it doesn’t slam) the bolt only slides forward a little bit then gets stuck. I realized it was on the magazine. I drop the magazine and the bolt freely slides forward but it seems to hesitate fitting into the barrel? It doesn’t go all the way into the barrel. Now if I pull the charging handle back and lock the BCG, then depress the release button and let it slam forward it seats into the barrel and all is well.

Is this normal? I’m going to use my go no go gauges tonight. Have to figure out on YouTube how to dissemble the BCG for that first.

Does this sound normal?

Is the gas tube #### eyed?
 
Honestly don’t know? Don’t think so. It slid in perfectly. Gas block is bang on over the gas port on barrel. I just played with it some more. When I slowly release the BCG it’s like it doesn’t fit into the female end of the barrel... then if I push on the BCG through the dust cover hole it pops into the barrel. Again, this only happens when I’m holding the charging handle so the BCG slowly meets the barrel. If I let it slam, it goes right into place.

Here are some pics.

 
Soak that sucker with some sort of lube. It just sounds dry. Cycle the hell out of it. Clean it and coat it with lubricant again. I've tried butches gun oil lucas clp white lithium aerosol silicone lube aft and 10-30. Butches gave me the best feel and smoothest feel of all of them I've tried. The silicone lube is the worst. It seemed to be dragging and when the hot gas entered the upper it smokes a lot and stinks really bad.
 
Honestly don’t know? Don’t think so. It slid in perfectly. Gas block is bang on over the gas port on barrel. I just played with it some more. When I slowly release the BCG it’s like it doesn’t fit into the female end of the barrel... then if I push on the BCG through the dust cover hole it pops into the barrel. Again, this only happens when I’m holding the charging handle so the BCG slowly meets the barrel. If I let it slam, it goes right into place.

Are you possibly just describing the bolt locking in place/the resistance of the gas rings while the bolt moves?
If you didn't have a barrel or extension before the bolt would not lock into place.
With the barrel and extension the bolt hits it, is pushed back and locks into place.

Take the BCG out and push and pull the bolt back and forth. See how it turns and how much resistance there is due to the gas rings. I believe that is what you are describing.
Still a good idea to use gauges, lube it and cycle it
 
Good news! I just installed the handguard, which has a small tab built into it that centers the gas tube (I’m assuming). Once that was installed and tight the BCG doesn’t hang up anymore :). Pops/slides into place as it should!

Thanks for all the suggestions. Where exactly should I live? The BCG? The gas tube where it enters the upper? Thx!!

 
Well I can’t thank everyone enough. She’s smooth as butter now. I took the BCG apart and lubed it it. I didn’t get a chance to do the headspace test as I couldn’t get the ejector pin out of the bolt. It’s a roll pin that’s my problem and I don’t have the tools. So that’s the next step. After the nightmare of trying to get the roll pin into the gas block I decided to throw in the towel tonight.

Other than checking the headspace the rifle is ready for action.
 
Anyone know where to get the gas port alignment dimple jig/tool? I have 2 barrels to have the gas block aligned, my local gunsmiths don't seem to want the work.
 
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