Stag 10 build and range review

Here she is. 99% ready (still have to check headspace with my go/no go gauge).

Stag10 upper & lower
MRA Handguard
MRA black nitrate 6.5 Creedmoor barrel
Brownells BCG
Radian Raptor Lite charging handle
Superlative gas block
MRA gas tub
MRA rock solid brake
Magpul CTR stock
Stag buffer tube/spring
Vortex cantilever scope mount
Vortex Diamondback Tactical 6-24x50
Magpul bipod

 
Anyone running a Aero 12" Atlas either the R or S-one with a Superlative .936 clamp-on gasblock? Or if anyone knows if the Aero M5E1 will work on the Stag upper?
 
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Anyone have a trick for removing the ejector pin on the bolt? I have the punches now, and planned to use a piece of wood in my vise to hold the ejector pin down... but my vise isn’t long enough. Is there another option? Quick grip vise grips? Something else? Thx!
 
quikcolin said:
Anyone have a trick for removing the ejector pin on the bolt? I have the punches now, and planned to use a piece of wood in my vise to hold the ejector pin down... but my vise isn’t long enough. Is there another option? Quick grip vise grips? Something else? Thx!
Click to expand...

No need to compress the ejector to take it out. Do you have the correct size roll pin punch(usually 1/16)? Roll pin punches have a nipple machined on the end of the punch to hold it centered into the end of the roll pin. Just drill a hole into a piece of 2x4, center the pin hole in the bolt over it, put punch nipple into roll pin hole, then carefully tap punch with a small hammer making sure to hit inline with the punch so you don't bent it. Should come right out with little effort. Make sure you put your hand over the ejector when you pull the punch out or it could go flying.

You will need to compress the ejector to put it back in however. You can use a shell case to hold it if you have the extractor on. Just cam it into place, then get someone to hold it for you(it can be done alone but, it is tricky), then use a roll pin starter punch to start the roll pin, then finish driving the pin in with your standard roll pin punch being careful to center it correctly.
 
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Tachead said:
No need to compress the ejector to take it out. Do you have the correct size roll pin punch(usually 1/16)? Roll pin punches have a nipple machined on the end of the punch to hold it centered into the end of the roll pin. Just drill a hole into a piece of 2x4, center the pin hole in the bolt over it, put punch nipple into roll pin hole, then carefully tap punch with a small hammer making sure to hit inline with the punch so you don't bent it. Should come right out with little effort. Make sure you put your hand over the ejector when you pull the punch out or it could go flying.

You will need to compress the ejector to put it back in however. You can use a shell case to hold it if you have the extractor on. Just cam it into place, then get someone to hold it for you(it can be done alone but, it is tricky), then use a roll pin starter punch to start the roll pin, then finish driving the pin in with your standard roll pin punch being careful to center it correctly.
Click to expand...

Sorry, yeah I meant the roll pin that holds the ejector pin in place. I have the right size punch, yes. I thought that ejector pin needed to be held down, in order to punch the roll pin through?
 
quikcolin said:
Sorry, yeah I meant the roll pin that holds the ejector pin in place. I have the right size punch, yes. I thought that ejector pin needed to be held down, in order to punch the roll pin through?
Click to expand...

You can compress it if you want to but, you do not need to to remove it(just to reinstall it). Here is what it looks like when out...

https://imgur.com/a/kmFf7BV

The pin just sits in that channel to prevent it from coming out.

If you want something to compress it, these should work...

https://imgur.com/a/kKNh5iP

You can use an empty case and then clamp the whole thing.
 
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quikcolin said:
Anyone have a trick for removing the ejector pin on the bolt? I have the punches now, and planned to use a piece of wood in my vise to hold the ejector pin down... but my vise isn’t long enough. Is there another option? Quick grip vise grips? Something else? Thx!
Click to expand...

To remove it I did not compress the ejector, I just punched it out

To reinstall it, I pushed it in with my finger tip and slide another spare roll pin punch through the hole to hold it in place as I punched the pin back in. As the pin goes in it will push punch holding it in place out the other end
 
Griffin, again thanks for the offer! You’re a stand up guy.

I have a quick grip clamp. I’m going to put a spent case into a 2x4 and clamp the bolt. Bang out the roll pin onto another 2x4 that I will drill a hole into (so pin can fall into). I have a set punch to get the little rascal back in once I’ve confirmed headspace.

Thanks guys.
 
I read somewhere that these roll pins are "one time use", but not sure if that's true? I can reuse that roll pin once I remove it, correct?
 
quikcolin said:
I read somewhere that these roll pins are "one time use", but not sure if that's true? I can reuse that roll pin once I remove it, correct?
Click to expand...

Yes.

They can loose tension over time but, you will be fine. It isn't a bad idea to have a few spares on hand though(all common wear items)in case you do eventually loose, wear out, or damage one.

By the way, good job removing the extractor and ejector to check headspace as it is the right way to do it. Precision headspace gauges are delicate and should never be forced. Not to mention you can't feel things properly when you are forcefully overcoming the ejector/extractor.
 
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Tachead said:
Yes.

They can loose tension over time but, you will be fine. It isn't a bad idea to have a few spares on hand though(all common wear items)in case you do eventually loose, wear out, or damage one.

By the way, good job removing the extractor and ejector to check headspace as it is the right way to do it. Precision headspace gauges are delicate and should never be forced. Not to mention you can't feel things properly when you are forcefully overcoming the ejector/extractor.
Click to expand...

Being the first rifle I've built, the whole process is kinda terrifying lol. The last thing I want to do is blow my face off - I can't imagine building a rifle and not confirming headspace. I have the Go - NoGo gauges, but I literally have no idea how they work? I'm assuming I install the Go gauge and if the bolt fully seats, I'm good to go? If the NoGo won't allow the bolt to fully seat, again - I'm good to go?
 
quikcolin said:
Being the first rifle I've built, the whole process is kinda terrifying lol. The last thing I want to do is blow my face off - I can't imagine building a rifle and not confirming headspace. I have the Go - NoGo gauges, but I literally have no idea how they work? I'm assuming I install the Go gauge and if the bolt fully seats, I'm good to go? If the NoGo won't allow the bolt to fully seat, again - I'm good to go?
Click to expand...

They're simple to use.

Depending on the brand of gauges you have - they may have a cut made on the back end to clear the ejector. Here are some steps

1) take the upper off the lower and secure it in a vice or however you want to

2) take the charge handle out, re-insert the bolt into the upper receiver.

3) pull the bolt rearwards, and insert the go gauge into the chamber. As I mentioned above, if your gauge has a cut out to clear the ejector, align it as you insert the gauge into the chamber so it matches up.

4) using finger pressure on the rear of the bolt carrier assembly, push the bolt forward until it snaps over the rim of the go gauge - at this point the bolt should close, and be a-ok!

5) repeat step 3 with the no-go gauge. Again, using finger pressure, push the bolt forward. It should not close on the no-go gauge.
 
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