Finally got someone at Arms east to get me the RMA, shipping the rifle to them today.
Stag 10 build and range review
- Thread starter griffin86
- Start date
Finally got someone at Arms east to get me the RMA, shipping the rifle to them today.
What's this about armalite gas tube and Faxon barrels ? I just received a spike's rifle length for my faxon and I haven't installed yet. Am I gonna have to order a armalite ??
What exact barrel did you buy? The manufacture will have info on what length the gas system is. Some require the hard to source Armalite length gas tubes
That is why I cancelled my order on a Criterion FA barrel, because it requires the Armalite length gas tube and I could not find one in Canada at the moment
The correct info should be available from the manufacture, in my case you can see that info listed in the "additional info" at the bottom of the product page
https://criterionbarrels.com/produc...ton-armory-medium-contour-18-5-308-ar-barrel/
- Location
- Near Edmonton, AB
I just installed a 18.6" Faxon Big Gunner on my Stag 10. My Stag 10 was the latest version with the Lev2 hand guard. The Faxon's gas port is 1/4" more forward than the stock Stag barrel. As such, the stock gas tube looks 1/4" short when installed on the Faxon. However, in my case at least, the gas system was still working perfectly fine. All brass piled up 10 feet away at the 4.5 o'clock position. Good, solid lock back on empty with 6 different mags. If anything the system felt like it had more gas to it as the cases were noticeably dinged from hitting the deflector, something that wasn't as noticeable with the stock barrel. YMMV of course.
Some people have reported they needed a longer gas tube. I installed one and saw that it was on the short side, so I sent it back. I have 2 barrels that are paperweights because they need a longer tube, I didn’t need a third on.
Rifle length and Armalite rifle length are different. The Armalite is 0.375” longer.
Quick question.
Building my Stag tonight and got to the gas block pin. Didn’t have the starter punch or a normal punch (don’t judge me). Put it in my vise (with rubber inserts) and using vise grips and a rag I got the pin 98% of the way. There is like a mm of pin sticking out the one side... but it won’t go further as it’s a little deformed from not using the right tools. I can’t imagine how it could come loose, or fall out. Just confirming this isn’t a big deal. I literally mean it’s 98% of the way in.
Building my Stag tonight and got to the gas block pin. Didn’t have the starter punch or a normal punch (don’t judge me). Put it in my vise (with rubber inserts) and using vise grips and a rag I got the pin 98% of the way. There is like a mm of pin sticking out the one side... but it won’t go further as it’s a little deformed from not using the right tools. I can’t imagine how it could come loose, or fall out. Just confirming this isn’t a big deal. I literally mean it’s 98% of the way in.
I bought Faxon 20" pencil 308. It said "rifle length" for gas tube.
I wouldn’t worry about it.
You can build a barrel clamp for your vise out of a couple pieces of 2x4 if you don't want to buy the right tools.
Or depending how close you are to a smith you could pay him for 10 minutes of his time.
As CR5 has pointed out two pieces of wood with suffice as long as you rotate the upper and pinch it by the top pic rail and between the breakdown pin holes. Do not squeeze or mount it sideways into the vise or it will damage the receiver.
I actually have a question about this. I feel stupid asking, as I'm 99% sure I know the answer, but since it's come up..
I bought a barrel extension torque tool from Brownells. It's a little different from a reaction rod, or the example above from TNA. Here it is here: https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-...-barrel-extension-torque-tools-prod72374.aspx
Rather than the rod being installed in the vise (like a reaction rod), you install the barrel nut wrench in the vise instead. You then put the Torque tool into the received, and the torque wrench fits into the back of the extension rod. So your torquing from behind the upper off the rod, rather than at the barrel nut wrench. A little different than most setups.
I installed a Mapleridge Armoury barrel last night with this method. Followed directions, and all seems good. Only question is (here's where I feel ridiculous asking), does torquing from the rear of the fire arm off the rod torque differently from the torque wrench at the front as you would with a reaction rod? It can't, right? I only ask as the Brownells torque rod instructions say "torque to 80 Ft/Lbs" where MRA only wants 35 ft/lbs....
I bought a barrel extension torque tool from Brownells. It's a little different from a reaction rod, or the example above from TNA. Here it is here: https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-...-barrel-extension-torque-tools-prod72374.aspx
Rather than the rod being installed in the vise (like a reaction rod), you install the barrel nut wrench in the vise instead. You then put the Torque tool into the received, and the torque wrench fits into the back of the extension rod. So your torquing from behind the upper off the rod, rather than at the barrel nut wrench. A little different than most setups.
I installed a Mapleridge Armoury barrel last night with this method. Followed directions, and all seems good. Only question is (here's where I feel ridiculous asking), does torquing from the rear of the fire arm off the rod torque differently from the torque wrench at the front as you would with a reaction rod? It can't, right? I only ask as the Brownells torque rod instructions say "torque to 80 Ft/Lbs" where MRA only wants 35 ft/lbs....
