Winterproofing an AR 10

barnett north

barnett north

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Question fellow gunnutz...
I have yet to finish my Stag-10 build, around the Holidays hopefully. I have read a few different opinions on a variety of websites concerning reliable operation of an AR 10 in deep freeze weather, with some wind and/or powdery snow. You know, that same cold that makes it painful to reload bare handed. I ask because I am in a tundra environment. A few firearms I already possess work without issue at -30 C (10/22 Ruger, 870 pump, 700 bolt). My Gunsite Scout was a disapointment by locking up... So, what is your experience in this kind of environment? What worked for you with an AR? What didn't with an AR? Why?
I'm open to different thoughts an opinions.

P.S. Don't eat the yellow snow.
 
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I prefer fluid film but any light oil will do.

I think the biggest thing when it comes to extreme cold weather shooting is not over oiling like you can do in summertime. The best cold weather lube is realistically no lube at all, but if applied sparingly, and wiping most of the excess off before reassembly, you will likely not have issues.
 
Graphite lube. It's good for more extreme temperatures than you could ever survive. Dries to a film, very neat stuff. I just finished winterizing my field/truck guns a couple days ago.
 
I'm using the Lucas gun oil but I think I'm going to try a 5w 30 full synthetic this winter and just play, but I agree a carbon fibre handguard or wrap it in a exhaust wrap
 
When we shoot C7s in the arctic we usually clean afterwards. Lube doesn't work so well below -50C, so you can't just re-lube and carry on like you would in + temperatures.

The heat from the gun will keep it cycling with what lube that's already on it. To put it into perspective, the burning of the gunpowder is so hot that it will still burn a hand on a hot barrel after enough shots. The catch is that you just can't let it freeze up again without wiping down the moving parts and putting another light coat on. Basically, quickly clean it again before you need to shoot it. We're just using plain old CLP, nothing fancy.

Same principle with MGs.
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I had good luck with mpro7 last winter. That rubber donut under the extractor had to go though. gonna try a roller cam pin one of these days so that should provide an even greater reliability margin.

Definitely take your forward assist apart and clean out the factory oil on a stag though. That stuff turned to grease the first time I had mine out in the cold.
 
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cancer said:
When we shoot C7s in the arctic we usually clean afterwards. Lube doesn't work so well below -50C, so you can't just re-lube and carry on like you would in + temperatures.

The heat from the gun will keep it cycling with what lube that's already on it. To put it into perspective, the burning of the gunpowder is so hot that it will still burn a hand on a hot barrel after enough shots. The catch is that you just can't let it freeze up again without wiping down the moving parts and putting another light coat on. Basically, quickly clean it again before you need to shoot it. We're just using plain old CLP, nothing fancy.

Same principle with MGs.
1517607161716.jpg
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We were taught to use a graphite based lube for arctic ops during BMQ?
 
Aeroshell Fluid 18 when it was still available, Royco 308CA or any other MIL-PRF-32033 equivalent are usually good down to -70°F (-56.7°C).
The MIL-PRF-32033 oils are mineral based and designed for use on aircraft machine guns.
For grease, Aeroshell 64 is good down to -73°F (-58.3°C) but I prefer oils in temperatures below -30°C.
 
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jmichelin84 said:
I'm using the Lucas gun oil but I think I'm going to try a 5w 30 full synthetic this winter and just play, but I agree a carbon fibre handguard or wrap it in a exhaust wrap
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My quad started leaking, I use synthetic 5w30. The stuff I cleaned up was like tacky syrup, that's at a mild 15 degrees below zero. I don't think that is going to be a good choice.
 
Speaking of, I don't know if it's just break in or not but I used my Stag 10 for the first time at -15. Not that cold but I had a heck of a time getting it to chamber rounds properly. Going to give it a good cleaning and a light lube but does anyone have any ideas why? It cycles fine but that first round is always a prick.

I built it from one of the blem Stag sets from Arms East, not a full rifle, so no going back to manufacturer for questions.
 
gatbrat said:
Speaking of, I don't know if it's just break in or not but I used my Stag 10 for the first time at -15. Not that cold but I had a heck of a time getting it to chamber rounds properly. Going to give it a good cleaning and a light lube but does anyone have any ideas why? It cycles fine but that first round is always a prick.

I built it from one of the blem Stag sets from Arms East, not a full rifle, so no going back to manufacturer for questions.
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Don’t load your mags right up or use your forward assist.
 
Funny thing, I wanted to ask that, only this time with my Wk 180-c, I’m not sure if I want to use it in extreme subzero temperatures. My 10/22 always freezes too in the winter, for emergency I use just a little bit of camping fuel and good to go all day, clean it after hunting.
 
griffin86 said:
Don’t load your mags right up or use your forward assist.
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I used the assist for a few for the final lock but I needed to drop the mag and do a full recharge for most of them. They were a half inch or more out of battery. It seemed to happen less with non-full mags but definitely didn't stop.
 
gatbrat said:
I used the assist for a few for the final lock but I needed to drop the mag and do a full recharge for most of them. They were a half inch or more out of battery. It seemed to happen less with non-full mags but definitely didn't stop.
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What buffer spring are you using? Maybe switch to a flat wire, they are stronger.
 
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