30-06 reloading tips for a beginner

The 3006 is a middle of the pack, good at everything, good enough for almost any game.animal. Not to be too, Captain Obvious, but pushing the same .308 bullet approx 200ft/sec faster than 308, the same below 300 mag.

Find a accurate load, dont try to make it be a 300 mag. Your good, enjoy.
 
I've had great results with imr 4350 and reloader 17 as of lately. I've been playing with 200gr bullets and have been getting outstanding velocities out of the 06 case. 200 NAB with re17 at around 2740fps and with 4350 approx 2670fps out of my winchester Alaskan with 25 inch barrel.
 
nowarningshot said:
The 3006 is a middle of the pack, good at everything, good enough for almost any game.animal. Not to be too, Captain Obvious, but pushing the same .308 bullet approx 200ft/sec faster than 308, the same below 300 mag.

Find a accurate load, dont try to make it be a 300 mag. Your good, enjoy.
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Exactly, I want a comfortable load don't wanna be flinching over a bullet that's going 200 fps faster
 
I've used Varget, D4064, D4895, WC735, H414, all produced excellent groups at mild to moderate recoil.
47gr Varget with 150gr ball gives me 2750fps out of my M1917's and is really accurate.
 
back40sniper said:
If a load of H4350 and a 165 grain won't shoot in a 30-06 there is probably something wrong with the gun. Work up in your rifle and hunt most anything on this continent.
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Post's 4 & 5 pretty much sum it up for the 30-06. I have been hand loading for the 30-06 since the early 70's. My main stay load is 57gr. of IMR 4350 topped with 165 gr Nosler Partitions or Accu bonds. Have shot a lot of moose and deer with this load from 20 ft. to 400 yds. Buy yourself a good press, dies, balance beam scale, case trimmer, etc. If you can get a fella that is well experienced at reloading to guide you in purchasing what you need then sit down with you a show you the procedure it would be a great asset to you.
 
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First tip is don't take any advice or loading info you read on a forum as gospel.

2nd tip is to sart simple and dont worry that you can't seem to get the tight groups you may see talked about on websites and forums. Learn the basics well and then you can start looking at the fine points.
 
nowarningshot said:
The 3006 is a middle of the pack, good at everything, good enough for almost any game.animal. Not to be too, Captain Obvious, but pushing the same .308 bullet approx 200ft/sec faster than 308, the same below 300 mag.

Find a accurate load, dont try to make it be a 300 mag. Your good, enjoy.
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This sums it up about as good as anything.

If you're going to be purchasing powder for the job, H4831 has been a long time goto powder for this cartridge. I would suggest the 58grn H4831SSC as it fits into the case without compression. CCI250 magnum primers will keep temperature issues minimal. This is a go to load I use for 200 grn bullets in my 30-06 rifles. It's close to book maximum but well within the acceptable strengths of modern actions, as in those made in the last 60 years.

You may want to consider some of the very well constructed, lighter bullets. If you're recoil shy, the 200 grn bullet loads are going to test how shy you are.

I use a LOT of H4831. I'm just finishing off the last keg of surplus powder, purchased way back when. Another powder I've played with and can recommend from personal experience is RL22, which can be difficult to find, I use exactly the same load for it as H4831. Velocities are identical and accuracy is very good. RL22 is even less temperature sensitive and also likes CCI250 magnum primers.

There are lots of good powders on the market for the 30-06. It's a very forgiving cartridge in most rifles. Very capable for a lot of purposes.
 
Potashminer said:
There is a decent writer named John Barsness who uses 165 grain (Hornady, Speer, Nosler) with IMR 4350, or H4350, at near max loads shown in most manuals, for accuracy testing a new-to-him 30-06 rifle. In the three rifles that I used that load in, it worked perfectly. You must start with the "Start" load and work your way up, to be sure that your rifle reacts similar to the rifles that were used by the loading manual companies.
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While not a 3006, my 270 also likes mid to full power imr4350 loads.
 
Another vote for IMR 4350 pushing a 165 gr bullet. I've gotten MOA results from Sierra, Nosler, and Speer spitzer boattails, and excellent results on game. (deer and sheep)
I believe the 165 gr bullet to be the optimum bullet in the -06. Pretty well matches the trajectory of a 150 gr bullet, and the energy of a 180 grainer.

When looking for a load, I've found I get the most accurate, consistent results from loads that have a high loading density; 97 -100%.
 
Ballchinion said:
Just got my first rifle and have always been intrigued with reloading my own bullets. I bought a weatherby vangaurd s1 and was wondering if anyone has any tips with specifics of powder,bullets,primer,books,and equipment that has proven worthy for them
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The devil is in the tools. Although not a inherently difficult cartridge to load for, it does present a few nuances, occasionally. I've loaded for several, and whenever I had an issue, it was usually solved easily, but you do need the tools.

The Vanguards are consistent, and well made, you won't likely run into the really weird issues.

You will need a decent press, IMHO the Redding stuff is top drawer.

In addition to what usually comes in a kit from the major reloading press manufacturers, I'd advise buying the following special tools: -06 GO Gauge, Hornady L-N-L Headspace comparator, Redding Competition Shellholder set.

Reloading dies: Buy a good set of new dies. LEE's are good, the rest are a bit better, Redding are the best.

https://www.ballisticstudies.com/Knowledgebase/.30-06+Springfield.html

I'm rather intrigued with the new Hornady ELD-X bullets. They have the BC that minimizes drop and wind drift. I load them in a 7x57, and have shot them in a 300 WM, impressive. For 30 years my bullet for the -06 has been a Sierra 165 HPBT GameKing. I only hunt occasionally, but it does work on whitetails. My other choice would be a Nosler 220 Partition, for anything close and big.

Get yourself a 100 to 200 Lapua brass, you'll be doing yourself a real favor. All the other brass is not as good. It will work, after a fashion, but IMNSHO, not worth the effort.

My primer of choice, a Federal 210M with 4350 and a 215 with 4831.

I use IMR 4350 with my 165's, and H 4831 with the 220's. I've used H414 (WW 760) and the velocity you can get is spectacular, the pressure just as spectacular. Real bad summer to winter variance.

I have lots of books, but most of my loads will come from online resources like the Hodgdon site. Most often refer'd to is Hornady or Lyman. Least often looked at, LEE. The LEE manual has some decent reference material, but the data is mostly recycled from other sources. Sometimes referred to, Ken Waters Pet Loads.
 
Pay attention to the brass prep,,, do each step at a time,,, you will soon learn about neck tension and run-out...

Watch the powder measurement,,, and learn what ladder test works for you...

A few sessions at the reloading bench will get you up to speed...

Keep it simple,,, don't over think the small stuff,,, take care of the things that will benefit you the most...

Once you accomplish that,,, then you can address the smaller stuff later...

Cheers from the North
 
In the Ken Waters "Pet Loads" book 57gr of IMR4350/165gr gave 2824fps and 55gr of the same powder with the 180gr gave 2757fps. As well I have also used 57gr of IMR 4831 with both bullets and got bughole accuracy.Either powder is the cat's PJ's
 
mbogo3 said:
In the Ken Waters "Pet Loads" book 57gr of IMR4350/165gr gave 2824fps and 55gr of the same powder with the 180gr gave 2757fps. As well I have also used 57gr of IMR 4831 with both bullets and got bughole accuracy.Either powder is the cat's PJ's
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Same exact loads here in my two '06. Hornady's SP, Sierra Pro-Hunter and GameKing and Nosler Partition, groups real good.
 
It's a hunting rifle. Don't get caught up trying to make it shoot 1/4" groups. I use R-P brass and no prepping other than trim length and chamfer / debur. As mentioned, the 165gr is a perfect all round bullet weight.
 
I've got the same rifle, and mine likes the Sierra 165 game kings seated basically touching the lands with 59 grains of IMR 4831. I got .5" 3 shot groups with that load when working up a load, but didn't Chrono it. 60.3 grains of 4831 was pretty close to as accurate too. My Speer book shows 59 as the max load, and Lyman shows a 168 hpbt with a max load of 60.6 grains IMR 4831. I was happy enough with these results that I haven't bothered with any other powder or bullet combos for it, but I also don't really hunt. I just figured everyone should have a good hunting rifle as a just in case. There's no guarantee that loads that work in one gun will perform the same or even be safe in another, even if it's the same make and model. Good luck and have fun with it.
Kristian
 
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444shooter said:
It's a hunting rifle. Don't get caught up trying to make it shoot 1/4" groups. I use R-P brass and no prepping other than trim length and chamfer / debur. As mentioned, the 165gr is a perfect all round bullet weight.
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And why pray tell would accuracy not matter cause it's a hunting rifle? Ken Waters knew a thing or two about "Pet Loads' hence the book.You will save a lot of components and time following his advice.Your mileage may vary.
 
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