Best way to cut 30mm pocket in stock?

[Teac]

So I have to install a takedown disc in my K98 stock (its a plain laminated stock). I have the disc but need to cut two 30mm pockets and a through hole in the stock.

What is the best way to do this? Optical considerations are critical here ...

- get a 30mm routerbit and plunge in? I worry this will go to deep and tear up the edges good (have 2HP plunge router)

- use a small (like 1/4") bit ans make a stencil and router out the pocket?

- use a dremel with a small routerbit and make a stencil and cut it out?

- give it so someone who knows what they are doing? Is there someone in the BC Lower Mainland (dont want to mail the gun) who will do it for a fee?

The pocket for this disc is what we are cutting:

Teac

 

[unstableryan]

Cnc.

 

[pmatuk]

30 mm forstner bit

 

[dogzilla]

X 2 for the forstner bit and a solid clamp with a drill press. Set the depth. Drill a small hole 1/16 or so all the way thru so you have a starting point when you flip it over. Don't go much bigger or the bit will wobble. If in doubt get someone else to do it that knows how, you only get one chance. Clamping it solid and square is the hard part.

 

[B_noser]

X 3 for the forstner bit. They are made for just such an application.
dogzilla nailed it.

 

[Grizzly Adams]

X 3 for the forstner bit. They are made for just such an application.
dogzilla nailed it.

Yeah, but all the sizes I've ever seen have been Imperial.

Grizz

 

[B_noser]

All of mine are imperial too, but metric sizes must be out there.

Quick internet search
h_ttps://www.rockler.com/individual-metric-forstner-bits-metric-forstner-bits-3-8-shank

A forstner bit with a knife edge will cut cleaner than one with a saw-tooth edge.

 

[guntech]

30mm is extremely close to 1 & 3/16" ... within 5 thou.

Shimmed and clamped solid and a drill press is the way to go...

 

[Teac]

The forstner bit seems like the way to go!!! Thanks everybody!!

If there is someone who has the equipment to do it cleanly wants to do it for a fee, hit me up!

 

[buoff]

30mm Forstner bit

If you want to be exact, Busybeetools has 30mm Forstner bit on sale right now for $3.99

www.busybeetools.com/products/forstner-bit-30mm.html

 

[B_noser]

Might want to expect some tear out with a Craftex bit, unless you carefully dress it before using. In my opinion, the price reflects the quality

 

[guntech]

With a $3.99 bit you get a $3.99 job... better bits cuts more cleanly.

 

[buoff]

30mm Forstner bit

Not necessarily, from experience I used both high price and low price bits in my woodworking making pocket holes for cabinet doors hinges and they both yield the same results. For that price get one and try on a piece of hardwood.

If money is no object you can get one from Lee Valley for $21.50.

www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/power-tool-accessories/drill-bits/102821-metric-saw-tooth-bits

 

[sean69]

Might want to expect some tear out with a Craftex bit, unless you carefully dress it before using. In my opinion, the price reflects the quality

With a $3.99 bit you get a $3.99 job... better bits cuts more cleanly.

X3 on the bit quality, the ones from Lee Valley buoff mentioned are really nice.

Though if I were needing a clean entry hole I would be using a brad point bit. However a 30mm Brad Point would be terrifyingly expensive.

 

[buoff]

30mm Forstner bit

Yes you can get a 1-3/16 brad point bit from Amazon for a low price of $117.70 plus $38 shipping. W L Fuller is a high quality drill bit manufacturer.

www.amazon.ca/W-L-Fuller-1-3-16-HSS-BPD/dp/B002BY79XE/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=brad+point+1-3%2F16&qid=1578161739&s=hi&sr=1-2

 

[dogzilla]

If it's for a one time job I would go with the cheaper bit. Try it first on a scrap piece of wood, take it slow, and cover the entire area with masking tape. If you don't like what it does on your sample you're only out 5 bucks. For some things I have actually put the machine in neutral and turned the spindle by hand just till I'm below the surface

 

[buzzmagoo]

If your worried aboute tear outs 2 inche masking tape then duct tape over the intended hole well braced in place with a good and sharp bit go slow and you will be good . If your wood is real hard go with an under sized bit first to remove the bulk of the material then do your final cut . Start your set up with your sized bit and then befor you cut /drill change it out for a smaller one cut to your Desired depth then just finish it off to size . A drill press is a must and the easiest .

 

[B_noser]

go with an under sized bit first to remove the bulk of the material then do your final cut

The advice to do an operation like this on a drill press or mill with the work well fastened down is a given. However, I cannot think of any circumstance where I would first cut an undersized hole and then open it up with a forstner bit. One would lose a lot of lateral stability without point contact. There is enough lateral movement in nearly all drill presses to allow for a somewhat ragged and over sized hole.

Tear out is a function of the characteristics of the wood and the profile and sharpness of the cutting tool. Walnut and oak will tear out much more quickly than maple or birch. A dull or poorly ground forstner bit, and one with saw teeth, will tear out more quickly than a properly ground bit with a knife edge. The cutting action of a knife edged forstner bit approximates that of a brad point with spurs. Cheaper brad points do not have spurs. a layer of masking tape is cheap insurance, and has saved my bacon more than once.

 

[Teac]

I didnt find a knife edge bit but one with a wave edge, which probably does similar things. Its not cheap but messing up the stock would be REALLY expensive. When it comes in then just have to find a good way to mount a rifle in a drill press ...

 

[guntech]

The advice to do an operation like this on a drill press or mill with the work well fastened down is a given. However, I cannot think of any circumstance where I would first cut an undersized hole and then open it up with a forstner bit. One would lose a lot of lateral stability without point contact. There is enough lateral movement in nearly all drill presses to allow for a somewhat ragged and over sized hole.

Tear out is a function of the characteristics of the wood and the profile and sharpness of the cutting tool. Walnut and oak will tear out much more quickly than maple or birch. A dull or poorly ground forstner bit, and one with saw teeth, will tear out more quickly than a properly ground bit with a knife edge. The cutting action of a knife edged forstner bit approximates that of a brad point with spurs. Cheaper brad points do not have spurs. a layer of masking tape is cheap insurance, and has saved my bacon more than once.

I agree completely... don't cut under size first... use a sharp knife edge Forstner in one pass to depth...