I agree 100%, best sub 1k production rifle out there.
what hunting rifle for newbie
- Thread starter Jorg
- Start date
I agree 100%, best sub 1k production rifle out there.
Definitely not all equivalent. If I had the budget, I would go with a Tikka. Just make sure you leave room in your budget for glass, some reloading gear, and ammo to become a great shot with your chosen rifle.
All of the above will shoot better than the average new hunter is capable with. Out of the box my Remington 783 shot 2 MOA and that’s with me being a shooter who has only been shooting for a year. With more practice And reloads I am sure I can bring that down
.308 or .270 are both great choices. Ammo and bullets are available in many weights, 90gn all the way up to 165 for .270
.270 is big enough for anything in North America outside maybe northern moose and bigger grizzlies. Although these can be taken with proper shot placement. .308 is similar in ballistics to .270 win
Down the road if you want to go after more moose you can look at something like .300 win mag
.270 is big enough for anything in North America outside maybe northern moose and bigger grizzlies. Although these can be taken with proper shot placement. .308 is similar in ballistics to .270 win
Down the road if you want to go after more moose you can look at something like .300 win mag
I'm reading comments to leave room in the budget for "reloading gear, and ammo"... what kind of gear are we talking about and what can I expect to spend on ammo?
If I go to the range... what are we averaging per shot ($1-2/bullet ?)?
In my mind all I really need is : rifle + scope + ammo + bore snake (already have ear and eye protection that I use when shooting my .22LR)
If I go to the range... what are we averaging per shot ($1-2/bullet ?)?
In my mind all I really need is : rifle + scope + ammo + bore snake (already have ear and eye protection that I use when shooting my .22LR)
- Location
- Western Manitoba
All good suggestions above, but couple points to keep in mind. As new shooter, you will need several hundred rounds of good practice to make a one shot hunting kill. So either going to learn to re-load, or going to be buying lots of factory ammo. Old timers, like my Dad, took dozens and dozens of head of big game - white tail, mule deer, moose and elk - with his iron sighted Model of 1917 30-06 - bought a box of shells every couple of years, and never "practiced" so far as I remember, but had thousands of .22 rounds of experience as a boy growing up in the bush in Northern Saskatchewan.
As above, cheaply made scopes are just too expensive. As a new hunter, buy a fixed 4 power by Leupold, even a used one, and you will be more than adequately equipped for 300 yards and beyond.
Places like TradeEx offer really good used milsurp rifles - 6.5x55, 9.3x57/62 and so one. Might need an experienced mentor to help get it set up, but those Mausers or Enfields or Lee Enfields took thousands of head of Canadian game, and I don't think the animals today are different. I have no experience hunting where a 500 yard shot is "average" or "necessary", but others might. Don't start out with the idea that you can buy yourself some gizmo or brand that will offset a lack of practice.
Many of us on this site own perfectly suitable hunting rifles with iron sights or decent scopes, that reliably take big game every year, and did not cost $500 all in - many, many rifles and scopes available on used market - helps to have a mentor, though, when choosing - save the extra $1,000 in your budget for practice ammunition. Don't get too hung up about "warranty" - none are worth anything if you have walked in for a day and a half and find the reticle bouncing around within the scope, or the extractor has gone missing.
As above, cheaply made scopes are just too expensive. As a new hunter, buy a fixed 4 power by Leupold, even a used one, and you will be more than adequately equipped for 300 yards and beyond.
Places like TradeEx offer really good used milsurp rifles - 6.5x55, 9.3x57/62 and so one. Might need an experienced mentor to help get it set up, but those Mausers or Enfields or Lee Enfields took thousands of head of Canadian game, and I don't think the animals today are different. I have no experience hunting where a 500 yard shot is "average" or "necessary", but others might. Don't start out with the idea that you can buy yourself some gizmo or brand that will offset a lack of practice.
Many of us on this site own perfectly suitable hunting rifles with iron sights or decent scopes, that reliably take big game every year, and did not cost $500 all in - many, many rifles and scopes available on used market - helps to have a mentor, though, when choosing - save the extra $1,000 in your budget for practice ammunition. Don't get too hung up about "warranty" - none are worth anything if you have walked in for a day and a half and find the reticle bouncing around within the scope, or the extractor has gone missing.
quattro.pilot
Member
- Location
- Leduc, Alberta
Tikka
270win
Leupold scope
done, shoot, enjoy
that's where you should start.
270win
Leupold scope
done, shoot, enjoy
that's where you should start.
- Location
- Blaster land, Okanagan BC
On average I shoot anywhere from 2-4 boxes of ammo through my deer rifle over the course of the year, from sighting in to shooting a couple groups to shooting game. I use my .22 bolt gun as a trainer, aside from recoil the fundamentals of marksmanship are the same. I can spend time at the range with my .22 shooting cheaper but getting the same or better results than if I was shooting my deer rifle at $1.50-2 a round. I get to shoot more and can concentrate on what I’m supposed to be doing right and I don’t get beat up by recoil.
Warden and Potashminer make some very good points for you.
Buy what feels most comfortable to you when you handle and shoulder it in the store.
Even better if you can shoot some of the various rifles before making your rifle purchase decision.Perhaps your gunclub has rifles you can try, or members may allow you to try their rifles if you provide the ammunition.
Buy once, buy right. This will save you lots of money, whether it is the rifle or the scope and mounts.
Used equipment in good shape can be a great money saving proposition. Expect to pay 65-75% of original price for good used equipment.
Your optics is going to be where your dollar will get you the most performance; do not cheap out on the glass! Expect to pay similar dollars for good optics as you do for the rifle.
Other good rifles you can look at are: Ruger M77 Hawkeye, Browning X-Bolt, Winchester Model 70, Remington Model 700
Lever action rifles are another choice and are a lot of fun! While not known for their accuracy, most are surprisingly accurate and are quick and handy, and fun to carry, hunt with and shoot.The Browning BLR is a great modern lever action rifle (terrible triggers, but you get used to them) but can shoot very well. Comes in a variety of cartridges that will serve your needs. There are others from Winchester, Marlin and savage that are also good.
Any cartridge from 6.5x55/6.5 Creedmoor/260 Rem, 7mm-08, 308, 270/280/30-06, 7mm Rem Mag, 300 magnums, 338 Federal, 358 Win is going to work on the animals you have mentioned. Only caveat will be any regulatory restrictions that may be in your area (check on this before you buy).
There is tendency for gun store counter people to over sell cartridges to new customers i.e. 300 Win Mags to first time deer hunters.
The old time tested standby of energy figures (at the target) works well; 1000 ft-lbs of energy for deer,black bear, 1500 ft-lbs of energy for moose and 2000 ft-lbs of energy for elk
Some of the ammo makers put the ballistic data right on the box (Federal for one). Compare these numbers for the typical hunting range for where you will be hunting. I like using these numbers to 300 yards as a factor, as the bullet drop of most hunting cartridges sighted in for 200 yards, will be somewhere between 6" and 10" of drop @ 300 yards, depending on cartridge velocity and bullet weight.
Do not get too hung up on the long range hunting fad...the average distance that most big game animals harvested in North America is just 100-150 yards!(Mine is 137 yards) For the average hunter/shooter, 400 yards is a long shot! In 35 years of hunting I have only harvested animals at over 400 yards twice , and I have harvested a lot of animals in open range, prairie and in the mountains.
Ammunition is of very good quality today and can equal the handloads of the average shooter/handloader today. Premium lines loaded with premium bullets from other bullet manufacturers can raise costs.
This is just my practice, but I like to buy a box of ammo from each maker of the bullet weight I want to use in each new rifle/cartridge and determine which ammo the rifle will prefer. Then I buy 5 boxes of that type and lot number so that I have enough on hand for practice and hunting.
This also helps me determine which bullets i need to buy for handloading for that rifle.
Handloading is a fun hobby, but can cost in the neighbourhood of $500-700 to get set up. It will save you money in the long run, if you are going to do a lot of shooting.
Keep practicing with your 22! Best thing you can do! Helps develop good shooting form, breathing and trigger control and overall rifle handling practices. It's cheap and fun! And hunting small game with it will help develop hunting skills and actual field shooting positions.
If you can keep all of your shots, from a variety of shooting positions, inside a 4" group, at whatever distance, this will ensure that you will be able to keep your bullets in the vitals of big game animals at that distance in the field. A deer sized animals' vitals are in an 8" zone, elk in 10" and moose in 12". So 4" from your point of aim will keep the bullet in the vitals, as placement is key!
And a 1" group @ 100 yards will be a 2" group @ 200 yards and a 4" group @ 300 yards.
Hope this helps, and best of luck!
Buy what feels most comfortable to you when you handle and shoulder it in the store.
Even better if you can shoot some of the various rifles before making your rifle purchase decision.Perhaps your gunclub has rifles you can try, or members may allow you to try their rifles if you provide the ammunition.
Buy once, buy right. This will save you lots of money, whether it is the rifle or the scope and mounts.
Used equipment in good shape can be a great money saving proposition. Expect to pay 65-75% of original price for good used equipment.
Your optics is going to be where your dollar will get you the most performance; do not cheap out on the glass! Expect to pay similar dollars for good optics as you do for the rifle.
Other good rifles you can look at are: Ruger M77 Hawkeye, Browning X-Bolt, Winchester Model 70, Remington Model 700
Lever action rifles are another choice and are a lot of fun! While not known for their accuracy, most are surprisingly accurate and are quick and handy, and fun to carry, hunt with and shoot.The Browning BLR is a great modern lever action rifle (terrible triggers, but you get used to them) but can shoot very well. Comes in a variety of cartridges that will serve your needs. There are others from Winchester, Marlin and savage that are also good.
Any cartridge from 6.5x55/6.5 Creedmoor/260 Rem, 7mm-08, 308, 270/280/30-06, 7mm Rem Mag, 300 magnums, 338 Federal, 358 Win is going to work on the animals you have mentioned. Only caveat will be any regulatory restrictions that may be in your area (check on this before you buy).
There is tendency for gun store counter people to over sell cartridges to new customers i.e. 300 Win Mags to first time deer hunters.
The old time tested standby of energy figures (at the target) works well; 1000 ft-lbs of energy for deer,black bear, 1500 ft-lbs of energy for moose and 2000 ft-lbs of energy for elk
Some of the ammo makers put the ballistic data right on the box (Federal for one). Compare these numbers for the typical hunting range for where you will be hunting. I like using these numbers to 300 yards as a factor, as the bullet drop of most hunting cartridges sighted in for 200 yards, will be somewhere between 6" and 10" of drop @ 300 yards, depending on cartridge velocity and bullet weight.
Do not get too hung up on the long range hunting fad...the average distance that most big game animals harvested in North America is just 100-150 yards!(Mine is 137 yards) For the average hunter/shooter, 400 yards is a long shot! In 35 years of hunting I have only harvested animals at over 400 yards twice , and I have harvested a lot of animals in open range, prairie and in the mountains.
Ammunition is of very good quality today and can equal the handloads of the average shooter/handloader today. Premium lines loaded with premium bullets from other bullet manufacturers can raise costs.
This is just my practice, but I like to buy a box of ammo from each maker of the bullet weight I want to use in each new rifle/cartridge and determine which ammo the rifle will prefer. Then I buy 5 boxes of that type and lot number so that I have enough on hand for practice and hunting.
This also helps me determine which bullets i need to buy for handloading for that rifle.
Handloading is a fun hobby, but can cost in the neighbourhood of $500-700 to get set up. It will save you money in the long run, if you are going to do a lot of shooting.
Keep practicing with your 22! Best thing you can do! Helps develop good shooting form, breathing and trigger control and overall rifle handling practices. It's cheap and fun! And hunting small game with it will help develop hunting skills and actual field shooting positions.
If you can keep all of your shots, from a variety of shooting positions, inside a 4" group, at whatever distance, this will ensure that you will be able to keep your bullets in the vitals of big game animals at that distance in the field. A deer sized animals' vitals are in an 8" zone, elk in 10" and moose in 12". So 4" from your point of aim will keep the bullet in the vitals, as placement is key!
And a 1" group @ 100 yards will be a 2" group @ 200 yards and a 4" group @ 300 yards.
Hope this helps, and best of luck!
Lee Anniversary kit is nice, then bullets, brass, primers, powder.
The reason I suggest this is you can make accurate ammo for around .60$ per round versus $3 per round of hunting ammo, ideally this allows you to shoot 5 times more than using factory ammo for the same price point. If you have only ever shot .22 you’ll need to work on shooting bigger caliber before shooting anything for hunting.
- Location
- Western Manitoba
Depends on you. My wife, son and daughter all learned to shoot - my wife easily went through 200 or more rounds with her new-to-her 243 the summer before we went mule deer hunting - she fired one round to take her deer. We lived close to the local range and were out probably every or every second Saturday for a couple months. In following years, so did our son, then some years later, so did our daughter.
With a new shooter, I always make certain they are wearing hearing protection - the "noise" often accounts for much of the sensation of "recoil" - it is not, but new shooter thinks it is. Next is good form - rifle solid to shoulder - face/cheek solid to comb - you move with it - do not give it a running start! My son was a pretty tall skinny 14 year old, but had no problem firing my Model 70 in 338 Win Mag from off hand position - but three shots in a row was as far as we would go - he never got bruised, I watched his form as he shot, and he felt the 308 turned into a "pop gun" as a result. How many rounds at a time? - until you are tired, or your form starts to get sloppy, and never until it "hurts". I grew up the "old school" rural Sask way - handed a no-name single shot 12 gauge and box of shells and expected to get birds - black and blue shoulder from metal butt plate, hand split between thumb and forefinger from the action break lever, ringing ears from the shots, and so on - that is not the way to learn to shoot - too much stuff to "unlearn" in later years.
- Location
- Western Manitoba
To OP - your comment about 75 to 100 rounds of .22LR. We live in different times and places. One nice afternoon, my son and I got out to a rock pile in my friend's gopher infested pasture (gopher = Richardson Ground Squirrel) I had a carton of 500 rounds - son with his single shot Lakefield and me with my Ruger 10/22. When we eventually walked back to the truck, we had no more shells left... That would have been about 1990.
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Seems like Tikka T3x is a popular recommendation and ‘can’t go wrong with it’.
Question #1 – Are there different model Tikka T3x ? (I think : Arctic, TAC, CTR, Superlite, Lite, …)
What model would be recommended I buy (keeping in mind original post is that I am a Newbie and never hunted (interested in deer, black bear, moose, coyote maybe, ... animals in Quebec) and hoping to keep budget around $1,500 if possible, maybe around $2,000 including scope.
Question #2 – where would you recommend I buy ? Online ? If online, which store?
Thanks!
Question #1 – Are there different model Tikka T3x ? (I think : Arctic, TAC, CTR, Superlite, Lite, …)
What model would be recommended I buy (keeping in mind original post is that I am a Newbie and never hunted (interested in deer, black bear, moose, coyote maybe, ... animals in Quebec) and hoping to keep budget around $1,500 if possible, maybe around $2,000 including scope.
Question #2 – where would you recommend I buy ? Online ? If online, which store?
Thanks!
The post about picking a gun that fits you is really important. Go to a store and handle all the guns you're interested in and see which one fits you well or you just like for whatever reason. Firearm choice is a very personal thing as the function of them is all very similar for a given price point. Although, with modern CNC machining the accuracy difference between a budget gun and an expensive gun isn't as far off as you might think.
Essentially, pick your price point, pick your caliber, go the the store and play with everything in that price range. How it feels to you is far more important than anything. Buy the one you like. Be happy with it first and foremost. If you like a gun but there's something cheaper, buy the expensive one and you'll always be happier with it and shoot better overall as a result. If the cheaper one feels better, get it over the expensive one. Mindset makes a big difference in accuracy and confidence in your firearm. Trying to pick on specs alone will never work out for anything other than the cartridge.
For scope, anything in a leupold, bushnell elite, nikon, weaver. What you get depends a lot on what reticle you like and how far you are planning on shooting. For general hunting the 3-9x is the go to magnification, and I'd say a 12x scope is the most that's practical. Hold over scopes are useful and there are a million different styles of reticle, so go look through them and see what you like. Once again a scope at a given price point will be very comparable to everything else at that price point. I personally have no brand loyalty and buy what's on sale the rare occasions that happens lol!
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T3X or used T3 Lite in 30-06 and call it done. You will have zero issues hunting anything in NA with the 30-06 plus the Tikka actions are true Long actions.
