Rifle Fouled bad.

270BBR

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My son bought at 270 Abolt . I started to clean it and I’ve been at it for close to 25 hours over eight days. I started with Hoppe’s #9 which I used over a bottle and a 1/3 of a bottle of Hoppe’s benchrest . I used about a 1/3 of a bottle of Sweets, ran J-B bore cleaner through at lest 10 times with Kroil. I used a Montana Extreme jag for 270/7mm 1 old bore brush and 3 new ones and over 650- 270 to 35 cal Hoppe’s patches as well as 12 ga. Patches for the J-B.
It looks as the copper is out but I can’t get the fouling out. The fouling must be wet as I can run a dozen dry patches down the barrel and you can see powder fouling is still in the rifling.
This is a 1993 Composite Stalker. Has anyone seen a rifle this bad, what did you do about it, or do I just have to spend more time on this thing. :mad:
 
Plug the bawrill and pour down some strong cleaner and lett'er sit for some time.
I'm thinking Fluid Film and Princess Auto has it on sale right now.
 
I have never experienced what you are seeing... what does powder fouling look like? Or are you looking at pitting?

Perhaps try JB Bore Cleaning Paste on a new brush... about 50 strokes in total will remove any fouling present... and a non damaged bore will appear bright and shiny.
 
I had difficulty with a rifle I believe had shot a steady diet of lubalox coated bullets or something similar. Everything came out easy enough except a black film of fouling in the corners of the rifling. It’s was shiny and looked wet as you described, I think I plugged the barrel and filled it with brake clean over night but it was years ago
 
When it's really bad I use wipeout foam overnight with the muzzle and chamber ends plugged so it doesn't dry out.
Then, before I patch it out, I run either a nylon or bronze brush through it for several passes. Then patch out the mess and do another blast of wipeout. Let it sit for an hour and then patch out.
 
Plug the bawrill and pour down some strong cleaner and lett'er sit for some time.
I'm thinking Fluid Film and Princess Auto has it on sale right now.

WELL ....... This caught my attention! Fluid Film as a bore cleaner?? The bulk liquid version is my anti-rust product of choice and the hands-down best case lube I have found, but I never thought of it as having cleaning properties. Does one just fill the bore with straight Fluid Film and let it sit for a day or so? Spray or liquid and, if liquid, do you cut it with anything? If it is the spray, the propellant might be what is loosening things up.
 
I like to wet down a barrel and leave it over night, and then repeat. Let the chemicals do the work.

I scrub the barrel with a mild abrasive and then wet with Sweets or WipeOut. Eventually all the fouling comes out.

I leave the rifle muzzle down and use the colour of the gunge to determine when it is clean.

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WELL ....... This caught my attention! Fluid Film as a bore cleaner?? The bulk liquid version is my anti-rust product of choice and the hands-down best case lube I have found, but I never thought of it as having cleaning properties. Does one just fill the bore with straight Fluid Film and let it sit for a day or so? Spray or liquid and, if liquid, do you cut it with anything? If it is the spray, the propellant might be what is loosening things up.

Ever wartchit awn threads?
It emulsifies.
Bubbles.
Duzz weerd chit.
But it werks.

Could be better products out there, but I yewse wutt I have.
 
The fouling (black soot) keeps showing up on the patch, when I run a wet one with #9 I can run several dry ones down and the black marks from the rifling shows up. Funny today I went back and put sweets in, after running 2 dry patches down they came out clean, then 2 wet patches with #9 and 4th brass brush with 20 strokes, the black streaks from the rifling is back.
 
Op - I see the changing colours thing many times of old ignored bores - as if going through various layers of copper/brass, then carbon (powder soot), then copper/brass again and so on. I think what is actually happening is that different areas of the bore are "loosening" - your patch could get black streaks 5 inches down, then rest of bore is actually clean, but the black streaks would suggest the whole length is dirty. I happen to use WipeOut a lot - over night soak, one patch to check colour, then scrub with a brush. Another shot of WipeOut, give it an hour - patch out as much as will come out, then another 10 hour or so soak and repeat. I made up a "plug" with length of 5/8" heater hose and a plastic wine "cork" and also fill entire bore with penetrating fluid - I happen to use shaken up 50/50 acetone and ATF. Hose it out with carburator cleaner, repeat with Wipeout. and so on. Some take literally weeks of this to get "clean" patches. As well, I stole an idea from somewhere - use undersize nylon brushes and wrap oversize patches the long way on the brush to give more contact surface to the bore when patching through. Every bit of gunk on a patch is that little bit more that is not in the bore!
 
My son bought at 270 Abolt . I started to clean it and I’ve been at it for close to 25 hours over eight days. I started with Hoppe’s #9 which I used over a bottle and a 1/3 of a bottle of Hoppe’s benchrest . I used about a 1/3 of a bottle of Sweets, ran J-B bore cleaner through at lest 10 times with Kroil. I used a Montana Extreme jag for 270/7mm 1 old bore brush and 3 new ones and over 650- 270 to 35 cal Hoppe’s patches as well as 12 ga. Patches for the J-B.
It looks as the copper is out but I can’t get the fouling out. The fouling must be wet as I can run a dozen dry patches down the barrel and you can see powder fouling is still in the rifling.
This is a 1993 Composite Stalker. Has anyone seen a rifle this bad, what did you do about it, or do I just have to spend more time on this thing. :mad:

I found a rifle in the woods that someone leaned against a tree and for whatever reason couldn't find it when they came looking for where they left it (it's a rule...never set anything down in the woods and walk away cuz you'll not see it,again). It looked like it had been there (somewhat sheltered) for a few years in surprisingly good shape except for badly rusted and dirty. The outside cleaned beautifully,but,I thought the action and barrel were garbage until a friend suggested brake cleaner and WD40. It took a couple of days of intense soaking a scrubbing,but,it came out like new. I still have the rifle. In fact,one of my boys took a nice 6 pointer this past season with it.
 
Multiple overnight applications of WipeOut - and patience while it does its thing - will likely loosen the grunge eventually. Also, KROIL is very good, if you can find it. Followed by JB Bore Bright if you have it.

Carb cleaner may also be good, as suggested. There used to be a product called GM Top Engine Cleaner which was, back in the day, the same as a highly marked-up gun cleaning product (like $16.95 for 4 oz., vs about $8.00 for a litre can of the GM product.)
 
Remove barreled action from stock. Using a heat gun or hair dryer thoroughly warm the barrel so it is quite warm to the touch. Plug barrel end and pour in the liquid wipe out or aerosol depending on what you have on hand. Let the heat and chemical do its thing. Let it sit for 2-3 days in a warm room and make sure to top up the wipe out when some invariably leaks out.
On day 3 the gunk inside should be loose enough to come out with regular cleaning methods.
Warming up the barrel seems to help.
 
Plug the bawrill and pour down some strong cleaner and lett'er sit for some time.
I'm thinking Fluid Film and Princess Auto has it on sale right now.

I don't think wool wax based lanolin Fluid Film could be considered a strong cleaner my friend, unless you're drinking it...
 
A random thought occurred to me - no experience dealing with it, though. Some bullets are coated with a molybdenum coating ""moly coated", that apparently has its own regime for getting it's build up out of the bore - apparently not the same as bullet jacket copper or powder soot. The moly coated bullets I have are dark, nearly black, so that would agree with the colours the OP was mentioning??
 
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