the good old rem 700

TheNewGunnut

TheNewGunnut

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So I somewhat recently inherited a rem 700 in 7mm stw. I even managed to bag a deer with it this season! Great right?
What's not so great is I noticed that after zeroing it the day before somthing wasnt right with where it hit on my deer, took it back to the range and it's all messed up again, re zero it, 3-4shots later it starts pulling down and right again.

Now this is about the time I found a rabbit hole on the internet and thought to my self damn that looks like the place I should spend all my time! So I've been trying to figure out where the most likely culprit for my problem is hiding, everything seems to be holding torque. My optic is an OLD redfield, and my stock is well a "stock" synthetic stock.

So I'm at this point where I'm feeling an urge to tinker, and that rem 700 keeps whispering that it could use some tlc....

Before I get into it though I had some very subjective and most likely divisive questions for the group.:stirthepot2:

1. Given the sheer number of manufacturers what would you suggest for an aftermarket stock under $5-600 and why?

2. What's your opinions on the magpul drop in detachable magazines

3. New stock vs full bedding job

4. Any other suggestions for worth while upgrades to check out?

P.s. I will be replacing the optic in the nearish future once I'm done with the rest of it.
 
I prefer the HS Precision stock, solid, aluminium bedded & has a good fit.. also check out B&C they have a good selection in that price range.
Make sure to check your action screws, bases & rings, ensure properly torqued & secured or replace entirely when you get your new optic.
 
Don't waste your time bedding if you have the cheapest synthetic stock... it is designed to bend and conform to the metal. You are better off with a wood stock.
 
I have the magpul hunter and bottom "metal" for my 700. I like it a lot. Feel and ergonomics are great. The only 2 things I think would be "cons" are: the lowest cheek piece insert is still fairly tall so your scope over bore height is less than optimal. Because of this I can almost guarantee your stock scope will need higher rings. For a hunting rifle the height of the scope shouldnt matter much. If you're trying to shoot to 1000 or more I would think you would be looking at a chassis anyways. 2nd con is that the butt plate and cheek piece need to be removed if you want to remove the bolt. This is accomplished with only 1 screw being removed, but it still has to done nonetheless. I'm thinking of modding mine so that I have a knob that I can turn on and off with just my fingers but, still a con.
As for the bottom metal and mag, it is nice. Dropped in just fine and worked with my after market trigger tech trigger no problem. It's a fiber reinforced nylon, so very very durable and not cheap feeling at all.
I liked my purchases.
 
99% chance that the scope is the problem... mount a quality optic and try again BEFORE you change anything else... there is a pretty good chance that you will be satisfied with that accuracy after the optic change.
 
hoytcanon said:
99% chance that the scope is the problem... mount a quality optic and try again BEFORE you change anything else... there is a pretty good chance that you will be satisfied with that accuracy after the optic change.
Click to expand...

For sure it is the scope unless you can wiggle other parts around due to loose screws. I had the same phenomena when I put an old scope on my first in line muzzle loader. I thought it was my loads until I tried it with open sights and it shot well. Does your old 700 have iron's?
 
hoytcanon said:
99% chance that the scope is the problem... mount a quality optic and try again BEFORE you change anything else... there is a pretty good chance that you will be satisfied with that accuracy after the optic change.
Click to expand...

Yes this. Change the scope and check the groups first. You can easily reinforce the forend to make it stop flexing if needed. Make sure the pressure pad is still in place at the end of the stock. And buy a timney. That will do it if the groups check out first. It's always fun to get new patrs but you probably only need the scope and trigger
 
So a few of you are suggesting wood sticks and while I prefer the look of a wood stock I am concerned about the durability and swelling(I plan to use this rifle at high altitude/long range hunting sheep/elk).
While I'm not really interested in a chassis system I really like the fully adjustable check riser and length of pull.

It kind of sounds like you guys are suggesting like a Boyd's AT-1

I'm currently running luepold bases with old redfield rings(same as new luepold)
But I'm thinking I'll be switching to weaver rings with a 20moa pic rail when I pick up a new optic(leaning towards another Steiner)
 
You stated, "my stock is well a "stock" synthetic stock" ...

If that is the cheapest plastic stock from Remington, a wood stock is better ...

But a quality synthetic stock would be better for your proposed use...
 
I should have done a better job of clarifying my intended use. That said is there a quality synthetic stock you guys would recommend. I've been looking at the cadex tundra but it lacks the length of pull and riser adjustments I'd really like in an aftermarket stock
 
TheNewGunnut said:
So a few of you are suggesting wood sticks and while I prefer the look of a wood stock I am concerned about the durability and swelling(I plan to use this rifle at high altitude/long range hunting sheep/elk).
While I'm not really interested in a chassis system I really like the fully adjustable check riser and length of pull.

It kind of sounds like you guys are suggesting like a Boyd's AT-1

I'm currently running luepold bases with old redfield rings(same as new luepold)
But I'm thinking I'll be switching to weaver rings with a 20moa pic rail when I pick up a new optic(leaning towards another Steiner)
Click to expand...

For your stated use, your path seems strange. The rifle will weigh a ton. Skip the adjustable stock, and the rail. Get a quality synthetic stock, two piece Leupold DD mounts, a scope with a 40mm obj or less, and you are set
 
chuck nelson said:
For your stated use, your path seems strange. The rifle will weigh a ton. Skip the adjustable stock, and the rail. Get a quality synthetic stock, two piece Leupold DD mounts, a scope with a 40mm obj or less, and you are set
Click to expand...

This... couldn't agree more...
 
Kuzuba said:
I have the magpul hunter and bottom "metal" for my 700. I like it a lot. Feel and ergonomics are great. The only 2 things I think would be "cons" are: the lowest cheek piece insert is still fairly tall so your scope over bore height is less than optimal. Because of this I can almost guarantee your stock scope will need higher rings. For a hunting rifle the height of the scope shouldnt matter much. If you're trying to shoot to 1000 or more I would think you would be looking at a chassis anyways. 2nd con is that the butt plate and cheek piece need to be removed if you want to remove the bolt. This is accomplished with only 1 screw being removed, but it still has to done nonetheless. I'm thinking of modding mine so that I have a knob that I can turn on and off with just my fingers but, still a con.
As for the bottom metal and mag, it is nice. Dropped in just fine and worked with my after market trigger tech trigger no problem. It's a fiber reinforced nylon, so very very durable and not cheap feeling at all.
I liked my purchases.
Click to expand...

There is a zero rise cheek piece, but they are hard to find. I had to buy an 870 Magpul butt stock to get one. Sold it with the .25 and .5 risers for a little loss, but worth it for the zero rise cheek piece.
 
hoytcanon said:
99% chance that the scope is the problem... mount a quality optic and try again BEFORE you change anything else... there is a pretty good chance that you will be satisfied with that accuracy after the optic change.
Click to expand...

Really? I would have gone the whole hundred. I guess something could be loose, but honestly, isn't ####canning the whole scope and mount assembly the first step in one of these "I just got a rifle from a geezer" expeditions?
 
chuck nelson said:
For your stated use, your path seems strange. The rifle will weigh a ton. Skip the adjustable stock, and the rail. Get a quality synthetic stock, two piece Leupold DD mounts, a scope with a 40mm obj or less, and you are set
Click to expand...

Usually you're a really irritable curmudgeon chuck, but you're 100% on the money with this one.
 
chuck nelson said:
For your stated use, your path seems strange. The rifle will weigh a ton. Skip the adjustable stock, and the rail. Get a quality synthetic stock, two piece Leupold DD mounts, a scope with a 40mm obj or less, and you are set
Click to expand...

BigUglyMan said:
Really? I would have gone the whole hundred. I guess something could be loose, but honestly, isn't ####canning the whole scope and mount assembly the first step in one of these "I just got a rifle from a geezer" expeditions?
Click to expand...

I get thar the optic needs to be replaced/repaired and as stated I will be buying on shortly after I make sure the gun is shooting properly.

The reason I'm prioritizing the stock and mag over the ring/scope is because the stock is flimsy enough that the wieght of the rifle resting on a bag is enough to make it contact with the barrel and the barrel isnt sitting straight in the channel.
Also I'm finding that it isnt happy chambering rounds, even with the rounds pushed to the back of the box mag its hit or miss weather or not it will chamber the next round in the mag.

From what I've been reading these seems to be a relatively common problems with a 700 and are best addressed by replacing the stock with a stiffer one with a detachable mag.

As for the wieght issue I'm hoping to find some middle ground between light enough for hiking and heavy/adjustable for long shots.

I'd like to avoid buying a 600 stock then having to buy/build accessories to make it fit me properly if there is a reasonable option with a built in adjustability.
 
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