Recommendations for a Lady?

Update: I have been out a few times now. First time was . . . well, I got about 5 rounds out of 25. Definitely room for improvement. So, on today's foray to the range I managed 10/25 for the first round, the second I lost count but I'm pretty sure it was 13/25 or better :D
 
There are some models specifically designed for a female body and posture. I would probably call to the gun shops near by and ask for it. For instance, my girls found Franchi Instinct Catalyst extremely well fit for to them.
 
There are some models specifically designed for a female body and posture. I would probably call to the gun shops nearby and ask for it. For instance, my girls found Franchi Instinct Catalyst extremely well fit for to them.

Thanks! We did a bit of research and found most of them out of our range - and since husband and I are beginners, we weren't keen to kill our budget (it wasn't large anyway). But I got a Browning Silver Sporting secondhand off the exchange, 28" barrel and the LOP is the best I've found so far. I'm not a tiny woman - a friend at the range yesterday was shooting a brand new Turkish over/under - it was tiny but so is she, so . . . I can manage with mine, we thought it could be the Micro, but not sure how to tell. It is a really lovely gun and I am happy with it. If I can break the "aiming" habit years of target shooting instilled, I think I'll do pretty well :)
 
If I can break the "aiming" habit years of target shooting instilled, I think I'll do pretty well
One of the more common mistakes a beginner makes. Keep the gun moving and follow through. Even the straightaways need follow through. My daughter discovered that she was stopping the gun after she pulled the trigger (or before) and once she stopped that her scores have improved greatly. I shoot trap with a number of women and all of them have trouble with gun fit.
 
Do you have a favourite shotgun ammunition?

I had no idea the same load could differ so widely from manufacturers. . . 0_0

Challenger: benefit of being cheap. Shot not badly.

Remington: seems to have more "oomph"

Federal: Best shooting I've done so far

Home loads - a friend gave us a box of his home loads. They were a bit light, I found I shot better with a standard trap load. He was concerned I'd be bothered by the kick of a standard trap load (I'm not, but I learned on black powder so I'm used to a certain amount of kick).

So, I will stock up on Federal the next time they go on sale. Husband and I are also looking into reloading equipment. We saved the Remington and Federal shells on the advice of our friend, he said they'd be best for reloads.

When saving shells, is there an upper limit to what you need to have on hand? Right now we have about a case worth.
 
Buy the cheapest ammo you can find. As a beginner, you will notice no effect from expensive ammo. Until you are shooting 25s consistently you will not notice any difference in the ammunition. I shoot Winchester Supertarget and Challenger target loads out to 25 yards with no problem.
Our club buys ammo by the pallet and then sells it to the shooters so we get a signifigant discount. Right now everybody is shooting Challenger 7 1/2 target loads. About 1190 FPS if I remember right. You can't reload 12G target shotgun ammuniton cheaper than you can buy it. Better to spend the time shooting. Gun fit and technique are far more important than ammunition.
 
Promo shells are so common now people think they are normal.

Personally shoot cheap shells for practice and for some shoots. Big shoots normally AAs of some sort.


Buying 20 flats or more is convenient depending on how easy and steady a price is available in your area.
 
Most, if not all, ammunition makers make a bewildering assortment of target loads. 1 ounce, 1 1/8 ounce of shot; 2 3/4 dram and three dram ( powder charge equivalent), standard, light and super light loads, all with different names and intent. In general, lighter loads of shot and lower velocities result in less recoil wich is important to many beginners and also to those shooting large amounts per day and to those fighting a flinch. There is more pellets in an ounce of #8's than an ounce and an eighth of 7 1/2's and neither has a significant advantage until you get to 25 yards and beyond, so many shooters today use one ounce of # 8' s for the reduced recoil effect with no loss of performance at shorter yardage. These will also throw a denser and sometimes more even pattern in some guns. At your skill level you will not notice any efficiency with one over another that could be attributed to ammunition differences, so the least expensive promo loads will serve just fine.
Reloading is a completely different ball game. If you need to buy the loader and tooling as well as components it will not be cost effective, you are better advised to spend this money on more ammunition unless you shoot huge amounts and you can source shot in particular at a reasonable price. I still reload because I have all the tooling I need and an adequate supply of components from old stock, but very few now reload shotshells. Ammunition prices are on the rise again and possibly reloading will become more popular at some point, especially if someone starts producing good reasonable priced shot in western Canada again.The very best hulls for reloading are the major maker's premium target loads such as Federal Gold Medal, Remington STS and Winchester AA. These all have 8 point crimps and real brass ( not brass plated - magnet test) and are designed to reload many times. Others will work but may not be as satifactory.
 
I agree buy the cheapest shells you can and spend your money on targets until you get your percentages up.

I shoot scores.

I get 1 1/8 oz #8 1145 FPS, I think that is around 461 pellets per shell, I use to get 1 1/8 oz #7 1/2 but the pellet count drops to 394...a old timer told me if you are going to shoot, shoot as much lead as you can so i use #8.

It was suggested if I shoot handicap I should use #7 1/2 1200 FPS so I do....truthfully I can not see the difference in performance. I am down to my last 3 flats i won't get any more I will keep all shells to #8
 
The cost of reloading equipment will negate any cost savings you might realize with it unless you have a source of very cheap lead and even then it will take a long time to see any savings.

Target loads for 12 gauge can be broken down to shot weight, shot size, velocity and lead hardness.
Payloads (shot weight) can start at 7/8 oz and 1 oz up to 1 1/8 oz with the latter being maximum allowed at most target ranges and for most shotgun disciplines. 7/8 oz are not that common but either of the other two will work.
Shot size for clay targets start with the heaviest pellet called #7.5's. There are also #8's, 8.5's, 9's, 10's, 11's and #12's..... the last three are really really tiny and not seen very often. The most common sizes seen on target ranges are #7.5, #8's and #9's. 7.5's or 8's will serve you well.
Velocities start around 1145 fps up to 1300 fps being max for most shotgun disciplines. This is often seen as dram equivalent but velocity will vary with payload and dram equivalent so it's actually easier to start with just to stick with velocity. 1145 - 1200 fps will work well for you.
Lead hardness is the percentage of an element known as antimony is added to the lead for hardness. The cheaper shells usually have about 2% antimony in the lead which can deform when it's being fired, more expensive shells usually have harder lead with antimony levels at 5 to 6% which helps to resist deforming as it's fired in order to give better patterns at longer ranges.

Basically, any shell of any payload, velocity and antimony will break targets reliably out to 25 yards so it's not something to get hung up on. Find cheap shells for now and worry about the technical details later when you start seeing some good scores.
 
Shoot 1oz #8 loads for all disciplines, Skeet, Trap, Handicap Trap, Doubles Trap, 5 Stand, and Skrap the only time I use 1 1/8 oz and it is only with #7 1/2 is Rabbit targets. My 1oz reload is at 1220fps of #8 in 12ga. In 410 I use #8 1/2. An ounce of #8 will break handicap targets without issue through IM choke, trap shooters tend to overthink this stuff.
 
The cost of reloading equipment will negate any cost savings you might realize with it unless you have a source of very cheap lead and even then it will take a long time to see any savings.

Target loads for 12 gauge can be broken down to shot weight, shot size, velocity and lead hardness.
Payloads (shot weight) can start at 7/8 oz and 1 oz up to 1 1/8 oz with the latter being maximum allowed at most target ranges and for most shotgun disciplines. 7/8 oz are not that common but either of the other two will work.
Shot size for clay targets start with the heaviest pellet called #7.5's. There are also #8's, 8.5's, 9's, 10's, 11's and #12's..... the last three are really really tiny and not seen very often. The most common sizes seen on target ranges are #7.5, #8's and #9's. 7.5's or 8's will serve you well.
Velocities start around 1145 fps up to 1300 fps being max for most shotgun disciplines. This is often seen as dram equivalent but velocity will vary with payload and dram equivalent so it's actually easier to start with just to stick with velocity. 1145 - 1200 fps will work well for you.
Lead hardness is the percentage of an element known as antimony is added to the lead for hardness. The cheaper shells usually have about 2% antimony in the lead which can deform when it's being fired, more expensive shells usually have harder lead with antimony levels at 5 to 6% which helps to resist deforming as it's fired in order to give better patterns at longer ranges.

Basically, any shell of any payload, velocity and antimony will break targets reliably out to 25 yards so it's not something to get hung up on. Find cheap shells for now and worry about the technical details later when you start seeing some good scores.

So, one of the older guys at the range is getting out of reloading and we were thinking of buying his setup, second-hand. I've learned reloading with a different fellow, he had me over and we loaded a few boxes together. It doesn't seem too terribly hard.

I do like 2 3/4 over the 3, but I can shoot 3 without a problem.

What can you tell me about chokes? My shotgun came with 3, and my friend said that the one I've been shooting with is "modified". What are the differences?
 
So, one of the older guys at the range is getting out of reloading and we were thinking of buying his setup, second-hand. I've learned reloading with a different fellow, he had me over and we loaded a few boxes together. It doesn't seem too terribly hard.

I do like 2 3/4 over the 3, but I can shoot 3 without a problem.

What can you tell me about chokes? My shotgun came with 3, and my friend said that the one I've been shooting with is "modified". What are the differences?

Chokes: one of the older guys where I shoot, suggest to shoot the tightest chokes you have during practice and during competition change to a more open choke. I would google an article by Jarrod Spilger???? Choke Choices Made Simple.

I have a semi and a over/under. I have 7 chokes for the semi and 5 for the over under and I only shoot IM in both.
 
So, one of the older guys at the range is getting out of reloading and we were thinking of buying his setup, second-hand. I've learned reloading with a different fellow, he had me over and we loaded a few boxes together. It doesn't seem too terribly hard.

I do like 2 3/4 over the 3, but I can shoot 3 without a problem.

What can you tell me about chokes? My shotgun came with 3, and my friend said that the one I've been shooting with is "modified". What are the differences?

Reloading is a hobby unto it's own and a good way to learn a lot about shotgun shells so if that's what you want to do then do it and don't worry about not saving money.

I can tell you lots about chokes but I'll try to keep it short and simple.
Chokes are a reduction of the inside barrel diameter close to the muzzle of the shogun barrel and how much reduction you use is dictated by how far you'd like to shoot. You can imagine it as sort of a funnel attached to the end of the barrel. For a very close target, you would use a "Cylinder" choke because it is the same diameter as the inside of the barrel, this will allow the shot column to expand as rapidly as possible so there is good pellet coverage for the close target. For a far away target you would use a tight choke such as a "Full" in order to keep the shot charge close together as long as possible. The shot column will still expand but if it expands too much then the shot pattern will not put enough pellets on the target for a clean break or kill. All of the other chokes are meant for use at various distances in between. Roughly speaking, a Cylinder choke should give you a 40 inch pattern at 25 yards and a Full choke should give you a 40 inch pattern at 40 yards and all other chokes work at the various distances in between with the extra full and turkey chokes going beyond 40 yards. These distances are going to vary with the load used and the gun they are used in but you get the idea.

Older shotguns and some of the newer ones don't have interchangeable choke tubes and instead just have the end of the barrel reduced to the choke that the shooter wants but most newer shotguns will come with 3 to 5 interchangeable choke tubes. These commonly are labeled as Cylinder, Skeet, Improved Cylinder, Modified and Full but there are a bunch more that fill the gaps in between these such as Skeet 1 and Skeet 2, Light Modified, Improved Modified, Extra Full, etc.
There is another and better method (IMO) of labeling the chokes than what we normally see in North America and it may help you to understand the size difference of the various chokes. This is a more accurate way to define what choke you are using since various guns have different barrel inside diameters. They call it "points of constriction" and it's the difference in diameter of the choke in thousands of inches in relation to the barrel or bore diameter. For example, a full choke should be .40 thou smaller than the bore diameter so if your bore is .733 inches then the Full choke should be .693 inches, or 40 points of constriction. A Modified choke should be 20 thou smaller than the bore so .733 minus .20 would give you .713 for 20 points of constriction. A Cylinder choke should be the same diameter as the bore of the gun for 0 points of constriction. As the bore diameter changes from gun to gun then so does the choke diameter for instance if your gun has a .745 bore then to get 40 points of constriction your full choke should be .705 inches.

As has already been pointed out, most experienced trap shooters will recommend Full chokes for trap. This is not a hard and fast rule and lots of people use Mod or Imp Mod very effectively at the 16 yard line. I've even used Imp Cylinder at 16 yards with no apparent change to my score but I wouldn't recommend that. Skeet shooters on the skeet range will use.... wait for it... Skeet chokes!!! They are supposed to be optimized for the target distances in the game of skeet. Sporting Clay's shooters will use all of the different chokes in their bag because of all the varying distances of the Sporting targets or, if your like me, I usually just put in tight chokes and use them for all the various presentations, maybe I'm just too lazy to change them....
If I were you I'd stick with the Mod choke or tighter for 16 yard trap.
 
I believe misses are in feet not inches I wouldn’t want to count on the edge of a pattern to break more clays. A full IMO will give a better edge pattern anyways.
 
I'm thinking we will be up there this weekend, we want to get our memberships. I am home now, and the proud owner of a Browning Silver Sporting. It fits, without adjusting! Chris actually drove me down to inspect and buy - he's really impressed with it. And it is so light! Simply beautiful. And the seller was from these forums and was super - lots of info, very friendly and fine with a FTF. I'm so glad my local forum folk gave me the head's up about this place :)


We will have to meet up, I'd love to see your gun and get some tips.

Congratulations on your purchase! That gun will serve you well for years to come! My gf has decided she wants to start participating in ATA trap so we will be attending the Edmonton City Championships this coming weekend at the Edmonton Gun Club. We attended the provincials the weekend before last and after seeing about a half dozen women taking part she decided she was going to as well. This will be her first shoot this coming weekend. She is planning to shoot the singles and handicap each day. We also will be attending the Wainright summers end shoot the weekend of the 28th so, another 400 targets she wants to shoot so I had to run out yesterday and find her more ammo! Lol
 
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