Yes it works. And cheaper and easier.
No it doesn’t work.
Yes it works. And cheaper and easier.
Yes it works. And cheaper and easier.
I've gotten away from Lapua since it's so expensive. Instead I buy several thousand rounds of once fired military brass like IVI or Lake City... Preferably Lake City.
I full process all of it, starting with crimped primer removal. I found swaging primer pockets to be preferred. I size the case twice, once in a regular FL die, then once again in a small base die, then anneal and wash in stainless media.
I then write the weight on every singe case and then sort into lots of 100. In then end, I'll get several lots of 100 that are within 1/10th of a grain in weight.
Once fire formed, they are at least as consistent as Lapua. Sure it takes some time, but cost wise, I get 10 cases to every one of Lapua. The odd lots where there's a 3 or 4/10 grain spread per 100 are used for non competition loads, but even 3 or 4/10s isnt bad. The more you buy, the more you will get of the same weight.
Painful as it sounds, I would recommend this process to anyone interested in hand loading. There's nothing like the repetition to get the feel of it, and the time to refine the process for large volumes. Later on, lots of 100 are easy.
I've been a hand-loader since 1982, and only recently I started to outside neck turn and inside neck ream. Accuracy was a little more consistent, however, what I notice the most is that bullet seating tension was very consistent accompanied with low extreme spread. Precision reloading is a great aid for consistent accuracy and gives confidence to the hunter/shooter.
Another reason I anneal is to make my Lapua brass last longer and use it for load development. I love Lapua brass compared to the others.
The problem with weight sorting brass is that you don't know where the difference in weight is coming from between brass pieces, and usually it's not in a place that effects volume of the cartridge, such as the web.
Weight sorting has been proven by a few people to be a futile exercise. If you want to be that anal, you should be measuring case volume rather then weight.
No it doesn’t work.
You can tell how much your brass is annealed by what sizing bushing it needs to hold a bullet.
Soft brass has less spring back than hard brass, so hard brass will require a smaller neck sizing bushing than soft brass.
If after annealing the brass has less spring back, then it is softer.
Just keep track of the bushing sizes needed to get acceptable neck tension through the life cycle of your brass.
If the brass has no spring back, then it has been over annealed and its junk. This is most likely to occur when using high heat like a flame, and less likely to occur using salt bath because it anneals at a much lower temperature which expands the time sensetivity tolerance.
The only real argument against salt bath annealing is from the company that sells a $2000 induction annealer. Not saying they're wrong but it is a highly biased source and not a single round was fired in their test. I do hear positive reviews from people who use salt bath annealing in their reloading process. Even if it doesn't soften brass to AMP's labratory target hardness, so long as it's having a positive improvement on your groups compared to not annealing then I'd say it has merit. Is it as good as the $2000 annealer? Probably not. Does it cost $2000? No.
Enlighten me please. I have heard this before but my thick skull doesn't understand how it makes a difference how you get the brass to specified temps.
It’s been tested in a lab and found to be ineffective.
It’s been tested in a lab and found to be ineffective.
Only AmP says it does not work...and they have a BIG $1800 bias...it does work..better than the torch method..better temperature control. The brass does not know how it get to the annealing temperature...
I use the salt bath and it does work very well. Used the torch method for years and the salt bath is way more convenient. I shoot with a guy who own an AMP and I can tell you I do win group and score at matches...and my brass last and last..I reload 6 BR, 30 BR, 6.5-284, .223, .308, 30-30, 45-70 and shoot a couple caliber every week end, 150-200 rounds.
My brass do get a work out, .223 and .308 where used in AR - small base die FL resized every time .006, and now in bolt guns.
Not one single piece of brass had to be tossed because of neck split or other work harden brass defect. Proof is in the pouding. Salt bath does work - very well.