Amazon Temp control deal

Here's the best video I've found on how to get it all together and working. He has a parts list, etc, below the video.
[youtube]AgixJeF0vEU[/youtube]
 
Saw that video. After pricing out his parts list on amazon, I stopped when I got to over $200 and still had parts to go. For the price, I would rather buy the lyman mag25. The deal killers are all the little bits and project box. (As said before the probe is too short.)
 
The linked parts are currently about $32. The first one I built used an old lamp cord and the power supply box from a dead computer.

A longer probe if needed is $10-15. Then you need a couple feet of wire, box, plug receptacle and plug. Maybe a switch. There's not a lot to it really but if you want excuses to not do it they aren't hard to find either.
 
Saw that video. After pricing out his parts list on amazon, I stopped when I got to over $200 and still had parts to go. For the price, I would rather buy the lyman mag25. The deal killers are all the little bits and project box. (As said before the probe is too short.)

Thats why its important to dumpster dive or be friends with people who dumpster dive. I cobble everything to gether with bits and pieces I have accumulated over the years. Helps to be an electrician.
 
There have been people who have offered them as a little side project but I'm not aware of any at the moment.

There's lower temperature units for brewing and other uses but I'm really surprised that there aren't options for casting etc. out there.
 
Well I guess there was something by a person/company called Hatch but I can't seem to find any source at all.

Hatch is a moderator over on the Cast Bullets website. As a hobby, he makes PIDS for sale to those who don't feel up to assembling the parts and building their own, or can't be bothered and just want plug 'n play. I think you will have to be a member there to be able to PM or email him to ask about buying.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?348755-Hatch-s-PID-FAQ
 
I have my second set of PIS/SSR/Probe - bothe the first, and now second SSRs are shorted closed at the load - in a nutshell, if you cut-open an extension cord, cut the black wire, and attached the two black ends to the two load terminals, the light still lights - that's not supposed to happen unless voltage is supplied to the SSR's input to turn it on. Ordering a different SSR and PID (only costs a couple more dollars), then likely will return that second set of PID/SSR/Probe. (unless I'm missing something).

I hooked up the rest of the setup, just to verify the cabling, etc, and the light I plugged in as a "load" was "mostly" on, and flashed when the PID flashed the SSR on and off.
 
I have my second set of PIS/SSR/Probe - bothe the first, and now second SSRs are shorted closed at the load - in a nutshell, if you cut-open an extension cord, cut the black wire, and attached the two black ends to the two load terminals, the light still lights - that's not supposed to happen unless voltage is supplied to the SSR's input to turn it on. Ordering a different SSR and PID (only costs a couple more dollars), then likely will return that second set of PID/SSR/Probe. (unless I'm missing something).

I hooked up the rest of the setup, just to verify the cabling, etc, and the light I plugged in as a "load" was "mostly" on, and flashed when the PID flashed the SSR on and off.

Draw me what you wired.
 
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