Annealing brass

156821

156821

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Terrace bc
Is it wise to anneal before sizing? Or does it make more sense to anneal after sizing? Have done lots of reloading but I’m brand new to this step. Also do you anneal each firing or is once good enough for several firings?
 
I watched a few videos last night, guys using the torch method.
Seems easy enough, I tryed a few and they appears to look good.
Anything I should be watching for?
Is this method good?
 
I do it by hand, takes a bit of practice to get consistent results. Best done in a dark room, rotate the last 1/2 inch of the case in torch flame until it glows red slightly...
 
cosmic said:
I do it by hand, takes a bit of practice to get consistent results. Best done in a dark room, rotate the last 1/2 inch of the case in torch flame until it glows red slightly...
Click to expand...
I anneal every other firing for my brass & always before resizing.
i have used an old B&D electric screwdriver with a proper sized deep socket (ie : 10mm for .223 ) & MAPP gas with good results. but takes awhile depending on how many of course.
Recently built one of "Elfter's" annearler off youtube. still need a cpl parts to complete it. cant wait to get it running.
for the best result is to heat the brass just before it starts to glow orange. once it goes past this colour the brass is junk. practice your flame timing with a test piece
 
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cosmic said:
I do it by hand, takes a bit of practice to get consistent results. Best done in a dark room, rotate the last 1/2 inch of the case in torch flame until it glows red slightly...
Click to expand...
I've watched 5 videos and everyone says not to let it get to the red point.
I've practiced a few and they look the same as my factory lapua brass.

I rotated them in the flame,until they were getting hot to the touch.
I think the issue would be ,under annealing ,as I had a coup that didnt change color.
 
45C said:
I've watched 5 videos and everyone says not to let it get to the red point.
I've practiced a few and they look the same as my factory lapua brass.

I rotated them in the flame,until they were getting hot to the touch.
I think the issue would be ,under annealing ,as I had a coup that didnt change color.
Click to expand...

I cant post pics for some ungodly reason but.
you should clearly see the colour results of a properly annealed case. usually about 1/4' past the shoulder. it takes practice to get it consistent. . mine take about 4-5 seconds in the flame to see it. and I let them cool on their own i dont drop them in water , personal opinion I think it changes the annealing process by hardening the brass too fast.
 
A couple of observations. I have annealed brass using a candle, a torch, a pair of torches, torches with time, torches with tempilaq, torches with observation, salt bath, and induction. The appearance of brass after annealing is irrelevant and is apparently surface oxidation, quenching brass is irrelevant either way, and the best method I have found outside of a computer based system is to roll brass between your fingers in a torch flame. Holding it at the case head and dropping the case when it becomes uncomfortable to hold on to.
 
45C said:
I've watched 5 videos and everyone says not to let it get to the red point.
I've practiced a few and they look the same as my factory lapua brass.

I rotated them in the flame,until they were getting hot to the touch.
I think the issue would be ,under annealing ,as I had a coup that didnt change color.
Click to expand...

I should be more precise in my wording. In the original text I should have left out the word "red" entirely... The trick is to anneal in a dark room, so you can detect the onset of glowing easily. The various manufactures of brass seem to react differently. American brass (eg Win) seems to heat readily, with the onset of glowing occurring before getting hot to the touch at the base. Yesterday, I did some Norma, and it tended to get hot to the touch well in advance of glowing onset. I suspect this is due to varying brass composition and moreso, thickness.
 
Instead of rolling brass with your fingers, use a drill on low with a deep socket, find a size that is just bigger than the brass you are working on. Way better.
Correct on no quench, just lay them on a bench or whatever.
I have a simple wood, dual torch ( 20lb tank ) set up with a stop you slide your drill into. I also recommend a metronome app on your phone to keep things consistent. For me 270 win, 7mmRM, and 6.5 creed all do well at the 4-5 second range, a longer dwell time is bad, a shorter dwell time is not as even.
Correct on the color not being critical, I always have a few cases that do not perfectly match the rest color wise. Probably brass composition is slightly different. ( same brand brass )
 
Forgive me is this is a bit of a derail, but I've been considering annealing as the next step in my reloading process, but I'm still not 100% clear the benefits are.

Is it simply extending the life of your brass by softening it up after being "work hardened"? Or is there another component that helps with accuracy as well?

Seems the answers I've seen differ between precision shooters and everyone else. I like the looks of the AMP annealer simply because it looks relatively fool proof, but for that price, I want to know if its worth jumping in with both feet.

Thanks!
 
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