Best choke wrench-stuck tube/870

Thanks for all the replies guys-greatly appreciated! I've never NOT been able to get a tube out (with one or more of the ideas posted here) but I've ALSO always had a 12ga, cheap-o Remington flat wrench as well. I use penetrating oil and let it soak for a couple of days, put the barrel in my vise, position the wrench and use an adjustable wrench on that for leverage, etc. I've never needed to add heat. Just a good tug with the right tools being held so that they don't slip=all good! We'll see if this one is up for a fight...I'll involve heat if req.

I have a proper/flat wrench en route, so once Canada Post have done their thing....I'll get this thing out!

Thanks again to everyone who has helped, very generous group of shotgunners here!

Cheers.
 
You have to distinguish if the choke is (1) stuck because of dirt, rust or similar OR (2) it is because it has expanded into barrel.
If you have tried to remove with penetration oil, slight heating etc and it did not worked, most likely it has expanded into the barrel. In this case you need a choke extractor, sometimes called a stuck choke removal tool.
 
.22LRGUY said:
Hey guys-I used to have one of those cheap, stamped-steel choke wrenches Remington used to ship with their guns. Sort of a T-shaped affair. Anyhow, I have a barrel with a stubborn tube, and can't find that one...I can only find the speed/crank one I have that expands in the barrel. Not enough grip for this little challenge.

Anybody know if you can buy these on their own and if not, what would a good alternative be? I know Carlson sells one that is the same idea (hardened stainless) and supposed to be universal, but I have no experience with those. If they'd be a good alternative, are there any CGN sponsors that sell them?

Thanks for taking a moment to reply!
Click to expand...

Heat gun or BMF hairdryer is your friend apply heat to the outside of a barrel that was sitting in the snow overnight.
Plus I have a Carlson with 6 plastic tubes for carrying your spare chokesIMG_20210118_194642.jpg
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20210118_194642.jpg
    IMG_20210118_194642.jpg
    90.7 KB · Views: 114
Last edited:
If you use the pipe wrench properly it will not egg the choke. However you need the proper size wrench and definitely need to use it properly, and gently(for a pipe wrench that is) A strap wrench of the proper size would work also.
 
I never tried it, but a fellow borrowed my choke wrenches for one like this, had never been out tried oil, etc, finally got mad and run boiling water over a cold barrel, came right out.
 
I've been carrying 2 Carlson's T-Handle Choke Wrenches after losing a Beretta choke wrench the first time I had the new gun to the club.It's an all metal design with 2 stubs that engage in opposing notches on most 2 or 4 notch chokes.I have both 12 and 20 gauge wrenches and they've helped a number of club members who have stripped the plastic wrench designs when trying to remove a frozen choke.The all steel T-Handle design ( actually more of an L shape ) allows you to apply alot more force to the stuck tube compared to the standard plastic T-wrenches by Browning or Beretta and the flattened stainless models supplied by Remington,Carlson's etc.

The Canadian distributor for Carlson's is Al's Corner store in Arnprior,Ontario.
 
Last edited:
bb07 said:
Whatever you use I would think a wrench that engages all 4 notches would be better than the ones that only go into two notches. Beretta makes a t shaped wrench and Remington made one that has a handle somewhat like a ratchet shape.
Rem chokes, Browning Invector Plus and Beretta Optima HP chokes all can be removed with any of these makes of wrench interchangeably.
Click to expand...

stubblejumper said:
Soak the end of the barrel in Kroil overnight, so the Kroil is above the threads. Then use the all metal Browning choke wrench with the crank handle. The Kroil will make a huge difference. Then use anti seize on the chokes, and you will never have another one stuck.
Click to expand...

Are you guys saying that Rem 870 choke tubes can be removed with Browning Invector Plus choke tube wrenches?

21251225-6d85-4cfa-9d09-374fc2c5ac0a_1.0739f16768826b0fd23e772ae8ad7abf.jpeg


If so, damn! I have a Browning T-handle wrench, but I've been looking for a Rem wrench for my 870's.

OIP.uTXjon3G0m-lQORUHt_NWQHaFj
 
MapleSugar said:
Are you guys saying that Rem 870 choke tubes can be removed with Browning Invector Plus choke tube wrenches?

21251225-6d85-4cfa-9d09-374fc2c5ac0a_1.0739f16768826b0fd23e772ae8ad7abf.jpeg


If so, damn! I have a Browning T-handle wrench, but I've been looking for a Rem wrench for my 870's.

OIP.uTXjon3G0m-lQORUHt_NWQHaFj
Click to expand...

Yes. I have the 3 different chokes I mentioned and they can all be removed with whichever brand of wrench interchangeably.
 
The pictured Remington speed wrench unfortunately engages 4 notches, so it may not interface with your 2-notch choke. I suppose two of the lugs could be filed down? Many of the 'fancy' wrenches out there use this 4-lug design.

But the feature that makes it useful is the square drive in the centre, to which you can attach a standard socket wrench, or an impact drill with the correct adapter. No choke is stuck when you can put a two foot breaker bar on it! There are other wrenches with this feature.
 
Pentrating oil, heat, vibration, time. Would be great if you could heat the outside barrel and have the choke tube iced down somehow.
 
Grouse Man said:
Pentrating oil, heat, vibration, time. Would be great if you could heat the outside barrel and have the choke tube iced down somehow.
Click to expand...

Thanks Grouse Man. As mentioned earlier, not concerned about getting it out (though we'll see! :) ) ...more a cry for help on where to find one of these very basic/cheap/flat wrenches. lol If I can't free it up using my regular method (penetrating oil, wrench, adjustable wrench for a little more leverage ON the choke wrench) I'll add heat to the equation. I've yet to have to do that, and I've freed-up some pretty stuck tubes. When I PUT a tube in, it always gets a very thin layer of lithium grease smeared onto the outside body/thread of the tube. If I'm in the field and change tubes, I trust there is still enough in the barrel and skip this step. I always take it out to confirm when the gun gets cleaned-up back at home.

In other words, I'm more careful than the previous owner of this barrel...but I'm also not overly concerned about getting it out. I have been reading about the Colonial Thin Wall tubes, as a generous CGNr messaged me and told me that I'd have to likely stay with that make/style if I want to buy other chokes. (and I do)
 
red_bailey said:
The pictured Remington speed wrench unfortunately engages 4 notches, so it may not interface with your 2-notch choke. I suppose two of the lugs could be filed down? Many of the 'fancy' wrenches out there use this 4-lug design.

But the feature that makes it useful is the square drive in the centre, to which you can attach a standard socket wrench, or an impact drill with the correct adapter. No choke is stuck when you can put a two foot breaker bar on it! There are other wrenches with this feature.
Click to expand...

Learned something new today!
 
One time I had to c-clamp the choke wrench to my desk and then hold onto the barrel and twist to get a choke out. Holding the barrel allowed for a good two handed grip, came out pretty easy.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom