INKBIRD PID is good stuff.

jethunter

jethunter

CGN Ultra frequent flyer
Super GunNutz
Rating - 100%
356   0   0
Location
Central AB
I bought an Inkbird temperature controller on Amazon for $40. It's complete, plug and play. Been using it for 3 months on a lubesizer, it's worked 100%. Several different models, the one I bought is1200 watt max, 250f probe, has outlet for cooling and heating devices but I'm only using the heater side.

Very good deal for the price.
 
yomomma said:
Yup good stuff.

Iv'e been ordering the amazon stuff that comes directly from chiner.

Always order an extra thermocouple...
Click to expand...

This one I got is a self contained unit, just plug it in and go. Think it's designed for small greenhouses and home grows.
Thermocouples seem to last much longer at lubesizer temperatures than they do at melting pot temperatures.

61mmRr2ta8L._AC_SL1000_.jpg
 
jethunter said:
This one I got is a self contained unit, just plug it in and go. Think it's designed for small greenhouses and home grows.
Thermocouples seem to last much longer at lubesizer temperatures than they do at melting pot temperatures.
Click to expand...

Agreed, they are handy. I have a bunch of them for home brewing. PID for my electric boil kettle, and a few of the type in your picture for my keezers and fermentation chamber.
 
the one you pictured is a relay output one I'm pretty sure.

if you want to bring the temp control up another notch you could get the inkbird controller that needs to be built in and attach a solid state relay.
 
bertn said:
the one you pictured is a relay output one I'm pretty sure.

if you want to bring the temp control up another notch you could get the inkbird controller that needs to be built in and attach a solid state relay.
Click to expand...

Temperature control is plenty good as is for a lubesizer.

yomomma said:
Are the thermocouple replaceable?
Click to expand...
I haven't replaced a thermocouple yet and they are sealed and hardwired, but should be able to just cut the cable and splice 2 wires. Could even splice in a plug if you wanted to be fancy.

GRS1 said:
What kind of heater do you us on your lubesizer?
Click to expand...
I have 2 heaters: the built in internal probe heater that comes with a lyman 450, and the generic Lyman base heater. Either one works ok by itself, I use both together to warm up in a cold shop and then unplug one when it gets to operating temperature.
 
I have looked at these in the past. I don't think the sensor is a thermocouple, I seem to recall it's a PT100, which is a type of Resistance Temperature Detector (RTD).

The Lyman probe heater is very low power, something like 20W, because they assumed people would just plug it in and let it sit there. It's just a standard size cartridge heater, I think it's 3/8 x 2", so I bought one off Ebay that was 10x the power output, and control it by PID.
 
No, the PT100 limits the range to something like 200 degrees max. Maybe they have something new in the last year, but I wanted to start importing them and couldn't find one that would work.
 
I've made 3 units so far. 2 were similar to the Inkbird but more of a no-name thing. Maybe "mypin"? Directions that came with them weren't great.
One was no good out of the box and after a couple years a SSR failed. I replaced the controller with an Inkbird ITC 100VH that was a little more user friendly. Never had a thermocouple fail which is a bit surprising as I thought that would be the first thing to go.

Got one for the lead pot, one for the toaster oven to powder coat and one in reserve for the luber heater or maybe brewing or whatever comes up.
Keeping the melt temperature in a repeatable tight range takes out the guesswork and really keeps the bullet weights consistent.
 
Burton Urnie said:
Does anyone know if inkbird makes one that would work for a Lee 4-20 pot?
(I have one some one got for me that I use on a freezer for curing meat, 35°-40°F. )
Click to expand...

We made up a PID with an inkbird for a Lee pot. It works well.
We set up a second one for our shotmaker but I don't think we have fired the shotmaker up since we put the PID together.
Thanks to the guys on here for the suggestions and what was required.
 
Kindred spirits...

I have one for the pot and one for my smoker...have almost enough equipment to make two more, mainly missing the boxes.

vagrantviking said:
I've made 3 units so far. 2 were similar to the Inkbird but more of a no-name thing. Maybe "mypin"? Directions that came with them weren't great.
One was no good out of the box and after a couple years a SSR failed. I replaced the controller with an Inkbird ITC 100VH that was a little more user friendly. Never had a thermocouple fail which is a bit surprising as I thought that would be the first thing to go.

Got one for the lead pot, one for the toaster oven to powder coat and one in reserve for the luber heater or maybe brewing or whatever comes up.
Keeping the melt temperature in a repeatable tight range takes out the guesswork and really keeps the bullet weights consistent.
Click to expand...

DFarmer said:
We made up a PID with an inkbird for a Lee pot. It works well.
We set up a second one for our shotmaker but I don't think we have fired the shotmaker up since we put the PID together.
Thanks to the guys on here for the suggestions and what was required.
Click to expand...
 
The inkbird PID controller can be run with a number of different temp sensor inputs (pt100, k or j type thermocouple, etc), just have to set the parameters accordingly. Output is a control signal for a solid state relay. I run a 5.5 kW heater coil on 220 V with mine. I got the 40 A relay, works good and I have managed to avoid burning my house down so far.
 
Burton Urnie said:
Lol
I would love to have one on my smoke House, but it runs on fire wood (up to 4'). There are just too many air leaks to control the draft.
Sorry off topic.
Click to expand...

Totally off topic. I made an Ugly Drum Smoker and I use charcoal for ribs, briskets, etc. I have also the option of using a hot plate and PID for smoking and drying stuff like pepperrttes
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom