WK180C Owners Thread
- Thread starter Virtual.Chris
- Start date
look on ebay
Does anyone have tried to make extended mag release like this work?
https://www.colonelmustard.ca/AR-ALUMINUM-EXTENDED-MAGAZINE-RELEASE--BLACK_p_335.html
https://www.colonelmustard.ca/AR-ALUMINUM-EXTENDED-MAGAZINE-RELEASE--BLACK_p_335.html
I have the magpul one on mine. Works the same as on an AR.
After a few rounds, just a few FTFs with Chinese milspec 5.56 ammo. It’s a decent rifle out of the box but the aftermarket Canadian bits have been pretty good and has been a fun build. Again great that it’s NR, however I still prefer my AR.
NM 2 stage trigger installed
TNA 15” MLOK rail - better traction for long arms and longer sight radius
TNA faux barrel shroud (no need making this anything longer than it needs to be)
KODIAK external bolt catch - this should have come with the rifle!
BLACKSLATE Industries MLOK covers and stop
SWFA 1-4x on an ADM recon mount (to be replaced with a red dot)
MAGPUL MBUSPro
NM 2 stage trigger installed
TNA 15” MLOK rail - better traction for long arms and longer sight radius
TNA faux barrel shroud (no need making this anything longer than it needs to be)
KODIAK external bolt catch - this should have come with the rifle!
BLACKSLATE Industries MLOK covers and stop
SWFA 1-4x on an ADM recon mount (to be replaced with a red dot)
MAGPUL MBUSPro
Hi Everyone:
I picked up a Lantac Dragon muzzle brake for my WK180 yesterday night. I thought it was just a matter of unscrewing whatever the WK180 came with - it seems like there's some sort of hexagonal nut securing the existing attachment. I tried to take a wrench to take that nut out so I can screw in this muzzle brake. It doesn't seem to move. Is there a special tool that I need? Or (worse case), that nut at the end of the barrel is not supposed to come off...I would think it does because I have seen WKs with muzzle brakes. I am sure I am just not doing things right. Which wouldn't be the first time...
I picked up a Lantac Dragon muzzle brake for my WK180 yesterday night. I thought it was just a matter of unscrewing whatever the WK180 came with - it seems like there's some sort of hexagonal nut securing the existing attachment. I tried to take a wrench to take that nut out so I can screw in this muzzle brake. It doesn't seem to move. Is there a special tool that I need? Or (worse case), that nut at the end of the barrel is not supposed to come off...I would think it does because I have seen WKs with muzzle brakes. I am sure I am just not doing things right. Which wouldn't be the first time...
The stock muzzle device is just torqued on their pretty good. The squared portion at the base is where you put your wrench... nothing fancy. Ideally put the end of the barrel in a vice (with something to protect it from scratching) before you torque on the muzzle device too much if you don't have some way of securing it from the chamber end like a Magpul Bev Block.
Thanks Chris. Ah, I see. I probably need a vice since even with a wrench, the rifle keeps moving around. Or is the proper way to do this to take off the barrel rather than trying to do it while the barrel is attached to the rifle?
I got the stock muzzle brake off with some force...
The instructions say to put in the crush washer, beveled since towards receiver. That I have done. Then I hand thread the new Lantac brake on. The only problem is no matter where I start it on the threads, by the time it is tight, the top vent holes are at the bottom (along with the logo). The only way I can get vent holes at the top of the muzzle brake is if I loosen it but then it way too loose. Any idea? Unless I am supposed to wrench tighten and it flattens that washer, but that is a whole 180 degree turn that brake has to make, and it doesn't seem like it has that much give. Any ideas?
The instructions say to put in the crush washer, beveled since towards receiver. That I have done. Then I hand thread the new Lantac brake on. The only problem is no matter where I start it on the threads, by the time it is tight, the top vent holes are at the bottom (along with the logo). The only way I can get vent holes at the top of the muzzle brake is if I loosen it but then it way too loose. Any idea? Unless I am supposed to wrench tighten and it flattens that washer, but that is a whole 180 degree turn that brake has to make, and it doesn't seem like it has that much give. Any ideas?
it's called a crush washer... you're supposed to wrench on the flash hider so that it crushes the washer until the vent is the correct way up.
You could try without the crush washer. It may allow you to time it (line it up) without over torquing it. The crush washer is simply designed to allow you to get it good and tight in the right orientation, but not at the expensive of requiring King Kong to do it.
. If you can get it good and tight in the proper orientation without the washer, do it.
Dexter Morgan
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
You only get one shot with the crush washer.
You need to carefully rotate the muzzle brake until it is lined up vertically, with the crush washer slightly crushed.
(no backing up)
If you have rotated too far; That crush washer is now garbage.
You need to throw it away, and try again with a new crush washer.
You need to carefully rotate the muzzle brake until it is lined up vertically, with the crush washer slightly crushed.
(no backing up)
If you have rotated too far; That crush washer is now garbage.
You need to throw it away, and try again with a new crush washer.
421SuperDuty
Regular
- Location
- 中华人民共和国加拿大省
If i buy one today what are the odds i'm going to be burning money on random parts failing? I'm seeing way too many posts about breaking bolts and pistons and whatnot, is the rifle made of glass or something? Nevermind "it's just a range toy not something you bring to Afghanistan", parts failing after 100 rounds?! Jesus! I know beggars can't be choosers considering liberal white womxn write the laws in this joke of a country, but if i put down $1,500 for a rifle i expect something more reliable than a $150 chinese Type-56
Well, that totally makes sense, but unfortunately, sometimes, the most expensive things break down often and required exorbitant repairs (compare the long term reliability of a BMW or Audi to a Toyota - the expensive European cars when they break, they break bad...believe me, I know). Here's the thing about the WK...it is made in Canada - that is not to say that anything here is perfect, but because it's local, chances are the support and service is good and this is so far what I have heard - Kodiak is very responsive to its customers. As for parts like the charger handle breaking off (seems like a common occurrence) - like most products, they will go through various iterations and hopefully on a future version, things will be better. There are not too many companies that make this look of black rifle that is non-restricted. I decided to give it shot to support the local Canadian manufacturer. Until they have proven that the product is not good and they are not willing to support/repair it and improve it going forward, I am of the opinion, that I'd like to give them a fair shake, even if there are some growing pains with some of the product line. I remember a time when Hyundai was universally thought of as the poorest of the poor quality. They have significantly improved over the years, and I was surprised to see in a recent car review guide that some of their cars have the highest rating.
Remote Six
CGN Regular
- Location
- Southern Ontario
No they're not wide enough.
