What is the best .223 rifle?

Crash2k

Crash2k

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Hi all,

I'm new here and will get my PAL in 1 week or 2. I would like to get a precision rifle in .223 caliber. I'm not planning to mod it or change the stock, but I would like to get the best accuracy/price performance. And all of this under 800$ if possible or arround this price.

I was looking at the Savage 12VLP with 7'' twist in .223. (I think it's the only one with 7" twist)

What is the difference in performance between 9" twist and 7" twist and does it worth it to pay extra for the 7" ?


Thanks for your help!
 
A 1:9 twist may or may not shoot 80 gr bullets. 1:7 will for sure. If you ever plan to shoot long range, 800-1000 yards go this the 1:7.
 
I would think that if your budget is $800 for a precision rifle, the Savage would be your only choice. I'm not even sure if they classify as a "precision rifle".
 
I have a brand new unfired 1-9 twist 12BVSS Savage that I would sell you. I don't have the box though. I'm going to buy the 700P instead.
 
There's no such thing as a "best" rifle. There are a number of models and makes that are excellent shooters. It's more how much you can afford and how well you practice with your chosen rifle that will ultimately determine how good a marksman you become. That said, Savage, Remington, Tikka, Winchester, Sako and probably a few other makes all make very accurate rifles. Another, more expensive, option is to have a custom rifle built by a good gunsmith. Good luck with your quest :D
 
If you don't plan to handload, you may not see the benefit of the 7twist barrel. I don't know how easily you can find 70 or 80 grain factory loaded ammo. Not that a 7 twist won't shoot 52 and 53 grain match bullets, its just not what it was set up for.

Value for dollar, your best bet is still the savage....or buy used. See what feels good in your hands and fits right......then practice, practice, practice.
 
Barks said:
If you don't plan to handload, you may not see the benefit of the 7twist barrel. I don't know how easily you can find 70 or 80 grain factory loaded ammo. Not that a 7 twist won't shoot 52 and 53 grain match bullets, its just not what it was set up for.

Value for dollar, your best bet is still the savage....or buy used. See what feels good in your hands and fits right......then practice, practice, practice.
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Thanks for all those informations!

Barks, i'm not planning to handload... So is that means that it's a lost of money for me to get a 7" twist ?

Thanks
 
Crash2k said:
I thinks at the end I will buy Stevens 200 and change it's stock for something less ugly ... ;-)
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I thought you said you wanted a precision rifle? A Savage 12FV in .223 is no more than 600 clams. Why settle for less when what you want is within your means?
 
2bad4u2,
Love your by-line. I always hear of these 1/4MOA Savages that shoot wwb into tiny snot holes, day in and day out, but have never seen one at a long range match.

Crash2K, How much would be be saving if you bought the Stevens then restocked it to something less ugly? You might be better off to just bite the bullet on something you don't have to #### with later.
 
I was in the position of Stevens 200 vs. Savage 12FV and I ended up buying a 12FVSS because to put a heavy barrel and after market trigger on the Stevens it will likely cost you more then it would cost to buy the 12FV in the first place, that's the way I think about it. Keeping in mind that you don't want to spend more then $800 on the rig right now... You could buy the Stevens for $330ish, then a very capable optics setup with the remainder of your funds. Then the optics wouldn't be outdone by the rifle in the future once you rebarreled, started to handload and replaced the trigger.... But that just a newb thinking out loud haha.
 
maynard said:
Crash2K, How much would be be saving if you bought the Stevens then restocked it to something less ugly? You might be better off to just bite the bullet on something you don't have to #### with later.
Click to expand...


Yup.
The Stevens shoot well enough. I improved mine (marginally) be bedding the action and handloading. Good enough fer varmitt'n, but hardly precision Replacing the stock on it would be like putting lipstick on a pig.

If you have the means, start at about the $600 mark. You wont be sorry:)
 
maynard said:
2bad4u2,
Love your by-line. I always hear of these 1/4MOA Savages that shoot wwb into tiny snot holes, day in and day out, but have never seen one at a long range match...
Click to expand...

I was thinking the exact same thing... also, I've never seen any factory gun come anywhere close to winning tin at an F-class match where consistent .25MOA should win.
 
Have had a number of Savage/Stevens that shot 1/2 MOA at 200yds until their barrels overheated. A number of groups that were in the 1/4 min range but certainly not an agg.

100yds aggs in the 1/2 min range with a tuned Savage shooting proper ammo is certainly possible.

All too often, a shooter only relates his best group, not the average/aggregate which target shooters consider a true measure of a rifles accuracy.

I have even seen a rifle review where a writer discounted 'flyers' in a 5rds group calling the remaining 3rds group proof the rifle shot such and such. Absolute crap...

As for winning tin, have a look at the US nationals this year. The F/TR shot by Team Savage did very well winning a variety of matches and relays. Took top honours at the team event before the Nationals.

Of course, Team Savage has some very accomplished drivers doing the steering but couldn't do as well if the rifles didn't shoot.

The F(O) is now coming out in number so we shall see how it does next year.

To win in F class, you need a 1/2min rifle after 25rds have gone down the pipe in short order (ie HOT pipe). The rest is up to the driver...

To the orig post, get a 12FV and bed the action. It will shoot sub MOA with most factory varmint ammo. Shooters are getting 1/2ish MOA groups with the 40gr White box Win from wallyland and cdn tire.

Jerry
 
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