Annealing - Has anyone made their own set up ?

The red switch is an add on that use to trigger the relay which turns the inductor on for the programmed time duration then off.
I used the salt bath before switching to this setup and in my opinion is safer, quicker and consistent.
 
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I would be interested in a wiring diagram. If you don't mind. I wouldn't say I am an electronic tech by any means. Just don't want to fry it...

Thanks
 
I would be interested in a wiring diagram. If you don't mind. I wouldn't say I am an electronic tech by any means. Just don't want to fry it...

Thanks

I removed the inductor momentary switch and connect it to the relay NO (Normaly Open) and GND on right side of the relay circuit board.
The relay trigger is connected to the red button add on momentary switch on the left side of the relay circuit board.
Here is the diagram https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/91z+BlySwmL.pdf

View attachment 491848
 
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I haven't gotten into annealing yet, but I really liked the simplicity of salt bath annealing. I did read a study that said salt bath annealing is not a good way to do it, but it was done by people selling the AMP machine so I'm skeptical.

https://www.ampannealing.com/articles/52/salt-bath-annealing--does-it-work-/

If you want to keep it simple and low cost go with the Salt Bath kit! I been using this for about 6 months and get excellent results, I anneal after every firing on my Lapua brass. I'm getting consistent SD and ES on my 308 6.5C 338 Lapua mag. My 338 got 2.9 SD with a ES of 5.5 on a 5 shot string. On my 308 and 6.5 I'm always in the single digits. The only thing about salt bath annealing is it needs your undivided attention on temperatures to make sure you never reach over 590C as this can turn out to be disastrous! and make sure the hot salt never comes in contact with water. So don't ever walk away and do something else leaving the melting pot turned on. I anneal all my brass at 525C 5 sec in the bath for the 6.5 and the 308 brass, 7sec on the 338 brass. Hope this helps.
 
I removed the inductor momentary switch and connect it to the relay NO (Normaly Open) and GND on right side of the relay circuit board.
The relay trigger is connected to the red button add on momentary switch on the left side of the relay circuit board.
Here is the diagram https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/91z+BlySwmL.pdf

View attachment 491848

Thanks for the info. I have been looking at something like this for a while. Good Olde Amazon. Should have all the parts here next week.
 
I have annealed with torch by hand, torch by eye, torch by time, torch by machine, torch by tempilaq, salt bath, and induction. If you aren’t going to use the amp, use a torch by eye and time. It’s free. Or very close to it.
 
I haven't gotten into annealing yet, but I really liked the simplicity of salt bath annealing. I did read a study that said salt bath annealing is not a good way to do it, but it was done by people selling the AMP machine so I'm skeptical.

https://www.ampannealing.com/articles/52/salt-bath-annealing--does-it-work-/

Salt annealing is an industry standard method for both ferrous and non ferrous metals. If it didn't work why would industry still be using it. Just have to make sure your gear can get up to the proper temp...
 
I got my homebrew induction annealer running on a slow night shift, now to start prepping the brass I've shot. I'll try shooting some that hasn't been annealed and compare velocities to brass that's been annealed with it to see if it changes anything.
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Kristian
 
Don’t be sceptical. It’s useless.

Written by the company making $2000 annealer..make me laugh...salt bath annealing work even better than a torch.
That article have absolutely no credibility.

Brass will get annealed when temperature- time is reached. This is a scientific fact - metallurgy.
No mistery there, and this, no matter what method is used. The difference is how you get consistency from piece of brass to another. There, salt bath annealing has a edge over a torch.
 
The reason that the cases are quenched are to keep the heat from migrating towards the base and softening it, is it not ?

How important is this step ? I am interested in hearing opinions on this.

I have done a lot of research on this and have concluded that it is not necessary and just adds more work because now you have to dry them. I just drop them onto a damp folded old towel. I find what is critical is to apply the right amount of heat for the right amount of time.
 
Written by the company making $2000 annealer..make me laugh...salt bath annealing work even better than a torch.
That article have absolutely no credibility.

Brass will get annealed when temperature- time is reached. This is a scientific fact - metallurgy.
No mistery there, and this, no matter what method is used. The difference is how you get consistency from piece of brass to another. There, salt bath annealing has a edge over a torch.

I see zero credible evidence disputing the article. Zero. Do you have something I’m not seeing?
 
The reason that the cases are quenched are to keep the heat from migrating towards the base and softening it, is it not ?

How important is this step ? I am interested in hearing opinions on this.

It might be an issue with very short cases, like .22 Hornet kind of length. With most bottle-necked rifle cases you simply are not going to have sufficient heat travelling the full length of the case unless you are heating it for a gross length of time, like 20 seconds or more.
 
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