Removing a M-1910 280 Ross barrel ???

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Ross1910280

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Anything funky about doing that ?

Threads are ?

Right or Left ?

Thanks.

7X53r0z.jpg
 
Right hand.
Probably in quite tight. Good receiver wrench and barrel vise important. Can be a challenge.
I have never had the barrel off a M-10, but have worked on Mk. III .303 rifles.
 
Ross barrels are held into the receiver by just a couple turns of very large and very fast threads. The barrel is kept from unscrewing by a plug/wedge that is threaded into the underside of the front receiver ring. It's been years since I have done it, but if I recall correctly, that has to be removed in order to unscrew the barrel.
 
The Mk. II (1905) has the large left hand modified buttress threads, locked in place by a set screw. Usually very easy to remove. The exception is the Mk. II** which has square threads like the Mk. III.
The Mk. III (1910) has right hand square threads.
 
tiriaq said:
The Mk. II (1905) has the large left hand modified buttress threads, locked in place by a set screw. Usually very easy to remove. The exception is the Mk. II** which has square threads like the Mk. III.
The Mk. III (1910) has right hand square threads.
Click to expand...

Thanx for this. I've only removed the barrel from a 1905
 
Now I am completely confused. This rifle is a 280 not a 303, sporting not military. Marked 1910 not 1905. Can we try again ?

I had it rebored to .308 to clean up the horrible pitting in 280. Sadly the reboring company did a horrible job, never checking after intial drill out. Thus pitting is left under the new rifling which is horrible as well.



I am awaiting their explanation.

I am thinking of doing a "stub barrel" as is done in K31 Swiss rifles where the old barrel is cut off, drilled out, threaded and new barrel installed in the"stub".
 
Your .280 is a M-10. It has the exact same receiver as the .303 Mk. III (aka 1910) service rifle. Barrel removal is the same challenge whether .280 or .303. Thread pitch is right hand, square threads.
 
I find this interesting - 280 Ross not something that I have run into - Internet has various 'authorities" saying anything from .283" bullets to .288" bullets. And your bore was pitted that a 30 caliber reaming and re-rifling did not get to fresh metal? I have some really sewer pipe looking old rifle barrels here - did not realize that the pits could extend that deep... But, if the original had .287" groove and the 30 caliber now has .308" groove, that means the pits were more than .021"/2 = .0105" deep. Who would have thunk that!!! (I suppose that presumes the new rifling exactly matches the old rifling?) For the "rusty and crusty" 8mm (.323"), I better think now of going up to .358, .366 or even .375, instead of the .338 that I had in mind?
 
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Ross1910280 said:
Now I am completely confused. This rifle is a 280 not a 303, sporting not military. Marked 1910 not 1905. Can we try again ?

I had it rebored to .308 to clean up the horrible pitting in 280. Sadly the reboring company did a horrible job, never checking after intial drill out. Thus pitting is left under the new rifling which is horrible as well.



I am awaiting their explanation.

I am thinking of doing a "stub barrel" as is done in K31 Swiss rifles where the old barrel is cut off, drilled out, threaded and new barrel installed in the"stub".
Click to expand...

Pitting may have been too deep for the rebore to get rid of it. - dan
 
dan belisle said:
Pitting may have been too deep for the rebore to get rid of it. - dan
Click to expand...

That may be the problem. The original groove diameter may have been .288", the new bore .300". That is only 12 thou total difference, .006" per side. Not much at all.
8mm or .338 might have worked better.

As far as fitting a new barrel to a 1910 goes, there are the square threads, plus a couple of bolt face cuts.
 
I would argue it’s not possible to rebore a 7mm to .30 caliber. The shop shouldn’t have even tried it. As a general rule of thumb, you should go up at least two calibers for a rebore.
 
Oldguncrank
It would be very much appreciated if you could post a higher resolution version of this blueprint. It is difficult to make out some of the dimensions at the current resolution.

Please disregard this post Blastattack's drawing is apparently an exact copy and all dimensions are legible.
 
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B/A
Yes I have a few more and a library of correspondence fro Herb Cox (who was the guru of Rosses in the mid fifties) to my father.
They were all on Rossrifle.com and were lost when it crashed.
I will see if I can figure out a way to copy the whole business again and send it to those who request.
OGC
 
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