Help with barrel removal

[Tikka223]

Thank you all for coming through with good suggestions. I’ve have had a great success.

I used a brass casing to make a sleeve for the barrel and also cut some pieces up to make shims to protect the action. Wrenched on the action wrench tight but not super tight and wrenched the barrel into the barrel vice very tight. A couple of solid wacks with the 1lb hammer and I though I was getting nowhere. I then used some gorilla strength on the action wrench and to my surprise it moved! Spun right off after that.

Here are some pics of my setup in case some others are willing to give it a go.

 

[bearhunter]

I'm actually surprised that flimsy bench top stood up to the torque.

That may be one reason why you had difficulty getting the barrel to break free in the first place.

Bench top FLEX is an energy absorber.

That's why your "Gorilla" strength on the action wrench beat out the slug hammer method. You actually overcame the ''flex'' induction.

Nice set up by the way.

 

[Ian Robertson]

My vise is similar to Guntech. Main difference is that I use moulded bushings for the barrel. A mix of epoxy and mill fibre. Once you have a few on hand you will find that one can do many. No barrel has beaten me yet!

 

[Tikka223]

My vise is similar to Guntech. Main difference is that I use moulded bushings for the barrel. A mix of epoxy and mill fibre. Once you have a few on hand you will find that one can do many. No barrel has beaten me yet!

Now there’s a good idea. How do you make the mold?

 

[bearhunter]

Now there’s a good idea. How do you make the mold?

If he does it the same way as most people, he either uses epoxy to pour into a set of blocks around the barrel or melt lead/pewter and uses resin or brass shim stock to grip the barrel to be removed/fitted.

I've gone through the process of machining about a dozen different profiles that pretty much will clamp everything I come across.

I exclusively use brass shim stock, cut to fit in these clamps, to protect the barrels from damage.

If for some reason there is a smear of brass on the barrel, it comes off very easily with a bit of 000000 steel wool and Wipe Out.

 

[Biologist]

Thank you Tikka223! Especially thank you for the photos. I think I have the same tools, and you have given me confidence to proceed on my own Tikka barrel removal task.

Question: Before removal, did you apply any penetrating oil to the threads from inside the action and let it sit for several days?

 

[guntech]

Question: Before removal, did you apply any penetrating oil to the threads from inside the action and let it sit for several days?

I have never had to apply penetrating oil to the threads in over 50 years and removing hundreds of barrels.

 

[guntech]

A hint about working on Tikka's... I found it easier to first remove the bolt stop and store it aside than to have the retaining pin fall out and the bolt stop and spring fall out and have to go looking for them. That pin comes out easily on it's own when banging on an action wrench...

 

[mildot]

Good thread, I'm just gonna send my action to Ryan @ IBI for the new barrel, LOL, Cheers

 

[Ian Robertson]

The mould for the bushings is 2" Dia. I have lots of experience with this stuff. You need to not only have an outside mould but a way to block off one end except where the barrel pokes through. Some of my material comes from the local craft store. I use a piece of thin foam sheet, punch a hole through it and this is taped to the bottom of the 2'mould.