casting for 9mm

I just sized all 440 projectiles and there was resistance to probably 99% of them. I'm brand new to this game of casting so I did not determine the diameter of the bullet when it was dropped from the mold. Also I don't have any uncoated bullets left to determine the drop size.
 
I just checked a bunch of the powder coated bullets and they're all .355 after sizing. Also the caliber is zeroed..
 

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I just checked a bunch of the powder coated bullets and they're all .355 after sizing. Also the caliber is zeroed..
Since you felt resistance when sizing then the bullets as dropped from the mould must be larger than the sizing die. That being the case and given that the bullets seem to be an honest .355 I would say the sizing die is undersized and incorrectly marked.

You might want to try using your caliper to measure the interior diameter of the mouth of the size die and see what you get. If it's less than .357 then that's where your problem lay.
 
Since you felt resistance when sizing then the bullets as dropped from the mould must be larger than the sizing die. That being the case and given that the bullets seem to be an honest .355 I would say the sizing die is undersized and incorrectly marked.

You might want to try using your caliper to measure the interior diameter of the mouth of the size die and see what you get. If it's less than .357 then that's where your problem lay.


Thanks for the advise... I'll try to check that in the morning after work. So is .355 acceptable in my 9mm or does it depend on the exact diameter of the bore of said pistol. I have yet to slug either of the 9mm's.
 
Another question... How come the Lee mold says it's for 125gr bullet but when I checked the weight on these powder coated bullets they weight around 130gr. Does PC add that much weight or is is possibly the composition of the alloy that I used? The lead ingots were given to me so I have no idea what the content might be.
 
Another question... How come the Lee mold says it's for 125gr bullet but when I checked the weight on these powder coated bullets they weight around 130gr. Does PC add that much weight or is is possibly the composition of the alloy that I used? The lead ingots were given to me so I have no idea what the content might be.

Composition of the alloy and temperature that you are running will have an effect on the final weight. Variations in manufacturing tolerances probably come into it a little. When molds were cut with cherries they would change when sharpened. There must still be tooling variables in the CNC cut molds.
Powder coating will add a tiny bit but not much.
 
Life lesson ;

Always do a few, be it casting bullets or loading bullets, check and double check before continuing on.

Learned this myself when I started out

Don't forget the plunk test
 
So I came home this morning and remembered I had those 15 not so great bullets out in the garage that I did not PC. They all measure 0.356-0.357 depending on how gentle I put pressure on the caliber. The sizing die at the entrance measures 0.370 and as deep as the caliper will go measures 0.355.
 

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So I came home this morning and remembered I had those 15 not so great bullets out in the garage that I did not PC. They all measure 0.356-0.357 depending on how gentle I put pressure on the caliber. The sizing die at the entrance measures 0.370 and as deep as the caliper will go measures 0.355.

Well at least now you know where your finish size problem is, your mold & alloy is right but your sizer is cut wrong....but all might not be lost with using those undersized slugs because they are PC'd .
If those bullets were wax lubed, shooting them undersized and using them at any velocity, gas cutting & barrel leading would almost certainly be the result. Waxed bullets must fit very tight...Pc bullets, not so much ,the PC does not gas cut as quick as wax would and in a short handgun barrel they will be long gone out of the barrel before leading happens I tested this a few years ago with rifle length barrels, shot some slugs into a big snow drift mid winter & retrieved them when the snow melted. I found no evidence of gas cutting in any of the slugs. just rifling engraving's.

.....but dont go loading all 440 of them up, try a few first...
 
Well at least now you know where your finish size problem is, your mold & alloy is right but your sizer is cut wrong....but all might not be lost with using those undersized slugs because they are PC'd .
If those bullets were wax lubed, shooting them undersized and using them at any velocity, gas cutting & barrel leading would almost certainly be the result. Waxed bullets must fit very tight...Pc bullets, not so much ,the PC does not gas cut as quick as wax would and in a short handgun barrel they will be long gone out of the barrel before leading happens I tested this a few years ago with rifle length barrels, shot some slugs into a big snow drift mid winter & retrieved them when the snow melted. I found no evidence of gas cutting in any of the slugs. just rifling engraving's.

.....but dont go loading all 440 of them up, try a few first...

This. Essentially what PC'ing does is create a bullet jacket similar to but not as hard as a copper jacket or plating. It protects the bullet from gas cutting and thereby decreases leading. My guess is that your .355 PC'd bullets will worked pretty well assuming your gun barrel is to spec at around .355.

Your questions about bullet weight were correctly answered by vagrantviking. Weights well always vary a bit depending on the alloy used and the PC does add a bit.

Now that you know the sizing die is the issue you have to deal with that. Your options are:
1. return it to Lee for a replacement (be prepared for a long wait)
2. see if where you bought it will take it back (don't hold your breath on this one as they will pobably refer you to Lee)
3. buy another one (seems more expensive but by the time you have paid for return shipping of the original it might be more cost effective)
4. if you are or happen to know a machinist the die could easily be reamed to .356 or .357. Personally I would go with .356. Some 9mms have short/tight chambers (think CZ) and .357 bullets may not reliably chamber in them. Before you go the .357 route (remember you can always increase the die diameter size but you can't reduce it) see if you can track down some actual .357 sized 9mm bullets to test your loads. If they work then fill your boots as regards your size diameter. However, if they don't you still have a die you can use to size to .356.

If you don't know a machinist many people have increased size die diameters by judiciously polishing the die interior with fine emery cloth tightly wrapped around a shaft and chucked in a drill. Just go slow, use lots of lube (always a good strategy;)) and check often to make sure you don't open the die up too much. Run test bullets through the die until you get up to the desired diameter. Remember you only have to remove 1 or 2 thou so don't go all Schwarzenegger on this process.
 
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If you don't know a machinist many people have increased size die diameters by judiciously polishing the die interior with fine emery cloth tightly wrapped around a shaft and chucked in a drill. Just go slow, use lots of lube (always a good strategy;)) and check often to make sure you don't open the die up too much. Run test bullets through the die until you get up to the desired diameter. Remember you only have to remove 1 or 2 thou so don't go all Schwarzenegger on this process.


 
This. Essentially what PC'ing does is create a bullet jacket similar to but not as hard as a copper jacket or plating. It protects the bullet from gas cutting and thereby decreases leading. My guess is that your .355 PC'd bullets will worked pretty well assuming your gun barrel is to spec at around .355.

Your questions about bullet weight were correctly answered by vagrantviking. Weights well always vary a bit depending on the alloy used and the PC does add a bit.

Now that you know the sizing die is the issue you have to deal with that. Your options are:
1. return it to Lee for a replacement (be prepared for a long wait)
2. see if where you bought it will take it back (don't hold your breath on this one as they will pobably refer you to Lee)
3. buy another one (seems more expensive but by the time you have paid for return shipping of the original it might be more cost effective)
4. if you are or happen to know a machinist the die could easily be reamed to .356 or .357. Personally I would go with .356. Some 9mms have short/tight chambers (think CZ) and .357 bullets may not reliably chamber in them. Before you go the .357 route (remember you can always increase the die diameter size but you can't reduce it) see if you can track down some actual .357 sized 9mm bullets to test load. If they work then fill your boots as regards your size diameter size. However, if they don't you still have a die you can use to size to .356.

If you don't know a machinist many people have increased size die diameters by judiciously polishing the die interior with fine emery cloth tightly wrapped around a shaft and chucked in a drill. Just go slow, use lots of lube (always a good strategy;)) and check often to make sure you don't open the die up too much. Run test bullets through the die until you get up to the desired diameter. Remember you only have to remove 1 or 2 thou so don't go all Schwarzenegger on this process.
I purchased this die from Higginsons. I just called them and the only option is to send it back to them ( my cost for shipping ) and they would send it to Lee for assessment/repair. That means I'd have to order another one of desired size and wait to be shipped ( again my cost ). My best option is to either hone it myself or take it to work and have my tool and die friends spec it out. I'm thinking for how much has to come off I might be better off to polish it myself.
 
I purchased this die from Higginsons. I just called them and the only option is to send it back to them ( my cost for shipping ) and they would send it to Lee for assessment/repair. That means I'd have to order another one of desired size and wait to be shipped ( again my cost ). My best option is to either hone it myself or take it to work and have my tool and die friends spec it out. I'm thinking for how much has to come off I might be better off to polish it myself.
The post by yomomma (#92) shows you all you need to know. It will give your fingers a workout but the chances of taking off too much material will be greatly minimized. As I said previously, use some unsized bullets to run into the die to test for how much you have removed & how much further you have to go. if you take your time you will be able to get it to exactly the diameter you want. Finishing off with some very fine grit wet silicon carbide paper or similar abrasive will give you a smoother finish that what comes from the factory.
 
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This. Essentially what PC'ing does is create a bullet jacket similar to but not as hard as a copper jacket or plating. It protects the bullet from gas cutting and thereby decreases leading. My guess is that your .355 PC'd bullets will worked pretty well assuming your gun barrel is to spec at around .355.

Your questions about bullet weight were correctly answered by vagrantviking. Weights well always vary a bit depending on the alloy used and the PC does add a bit.

Now that you know the sizing die is the issue you have to deal with that. Your options are:
1. return it to Lee for a replacement (be prepared for a long wait)
2. see if where you bought it will take it back (don't hold your breath on this one as they will pobably refer you to Lee)
3. buy another one (seems more expensive but by the time you have paid for return shipping of the original it might be more cost effective)
4. if you are or happen to know a machinist the die could easily be reamed to .356 or .357. Personally I would go with .356. Some 9mms have short/tight chambers (think CZ) and .357 bullets may not reliably chamber in them. Before you go the .357 route (remember you can always increase the die diameter size but you can't reduce it) see if you can track down some actual .357 sized 9mm bullets to test load. If they work then fill your boots as regards your size diameter size. However, if they don't you still have a die you can use to size to .356.

If you don't know a machinist many people have increased size die diameters by judiciously polishing the die interior with fine emery cloth tightly wrapped around a shaft and chucked in a drill. Just go slow, use lots of lube (always a good strategy;)) and check often to make sure you don't open the die up too much. Run test bullets through the die until you get up to the desired diameter. Remember you only have to remove 1 or 2 thou so don't go all Schwarzenegger on this process.

Sorry for the dumb question but can you explain what " gas Cutting" means?
 
Gas cutting is when the super heated gasses from burning powder sneaks between the bullet and your barrel. As it escapes the heat from the gas cuts into the lead leaving deposits in the barrel.

Hence, gas checks.
 
Gas cutting is when the super heated gasses from burning powder sneaks between the bullet and your barrel. As it escapes the heat from the gas cuts into the lead leaving deposits in the barrel.

Hence, gas checks.
Aw ok...thanks for that simple yet informative answer. Well my bullets fired ok mind you I'm not the greatest shooter and I'm sure the Shadow can outshoot me any day of the week. I loaded 3.2 gr of Titegroup with OAL of 1.092 as per recommended by fellow member. Shot them at 25 yds. Haven't checked the barrel yet to see what it's like inside ( leading ) but will later. I think with some sleep and not working the nightshift before shooting might improve accuracy....hahaha maybe.
 

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should not get leading with powder coating
Duh...dummy me. What the heck am I thinking. Thanks. The couple of holes on the left hand side of that Target look a little ragged. Would that be bullet tumbling? If so would increasing the charge perhaps fix that?
 
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should not get leading with powder coating

Shouldn't happen when sticking to cast bullet type pressure but if it's loaded up to the point that pressure exceeds what the coating can take it will.

I've never seen anything talking about the actual failure point of powder coated bullets but it's still not as tough ss copper.

The holes don't look clear enough to me to say if they're unstable. Maybe try them at greater distances. If they are, increased velocity might be the answer. Do more shooting before worrying about that though.
 
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