Sig Cross rifle pics and a few words
- Thread starter glockguy-187
- Start date
My understanding is that there are two caliber offerings for Canada:
1) 308 with 16" barrel
2) 6.5CM with 18" barrel
Each is offered in black or desert camo colour.
I know SIG had planned a version in 277 SIG (new caliber with a hybrid brass / stainless case that was capable of 80,000 PSI level pressures which would mean good velocity / ballistics in a short barrel) but I dont know if that ever happened (maybe others can speak more to that?).
One side note, someone had a 308 at the range and it was the loudest gun I have ever heard (short barrel maybe?).
Just here to share my experience.
Ive had my Cross in 6.5 for a few months and have brought it out about twice.
The first time, it was my intent to zero the rifle. I slapped on a magpul bipod, nightforce 20 MOA rings, and a marcool scope (surprisingly good for a $500 scope). I ran into an issue with the scope adjustment topping out at .5 mils from the actual zero distance. This was due to the 20 MOA rail I suppose. Regardless; The ammo I shot that day was S&B 140 Gr SP which grouped at a disappointing 1.4 at 100m. It was an overall crappy day so I packed up and headed home.
The second trip was a master sight-in day for my Cadex, RPR, and Cross rifle. This time, I exchanged the scope mount for a 0MOA mount. I added a muzzle brake and tent to town. I brought the same 140 Gr SP ammo which shot a 1.3" group. Next, I shot some hand-loaded 129 Hornady interlock which sat at just less than 1".
Ive recently bought a reloading setup and have made some progressive loads with the 147 ELD-M So stay tuned for that!
Next time I head out, I plan on giving some results from my loads, and testing out Federal's TMJ 120 grain ammunition I just picked up.
What type of groupings are you getting out of your rifle? with what ammunition?
Ive had my Cross in 6.5 for a few months and have brought it out about twice.
The first time, it was my intent to zero the rifle. I slapped on a magpul bipod, nightforce 20 MOA rings, and a marcool scope (surprisingly good for a $500 scope). I ran into an issue with the scope adjustment topping out at .5 mils from the actual zero distance. This was due to the 20 MOA rail I suppose. Regardless; The ammo I shot that day was S&B 140 Gr SP which grouped at a disappointing 1.4 at 100m. It was an overall crappy day so I packed up and headed home.
The second trip was a master sight-in day for my Cadex, RPR, and Cross rifle. This time, I exchanged the scope mount for a 0MOA mount. I added a muzzle brake and tent to town. I brought the same 140 Gr SP ammo which shot a 1.3" group. Next, I shot some hand-loaded 129 Hornady interlock which sat at just less than 1".
Ive recently bought a reloading setup and have made some progressive loads with the 147 ELD-M So stay tuned for that!
Next time I head out, I plan on giving some results from my loads, and testing out Federal's TMJ 120 grain ammunition I just picked up.
What type of groupings are you getting out of your rifle? with what ammunition?
I was thinking of picking one of these up in 6.5 to get my 10 year old shooting something I could also adjust to fit me. It definitely won't be the camo version. I have a few items from First lite and the clothing is pretty good but way over priced for where it's made. Apparently the camo pattern is overpriced too...$400 difference to the black version.
I wouldn't bother either, the camo is a bit tacky, spend the extra money on ammo and components, black never goes out of style anyways. For the price difference you can have it ceracoated any color you want.
I have a .308 cross and the barrel looks like it has had a few inches welded on,something was added to it. Any ideas what happened. Will this effect anything. I'm a bit pissed if my brand new rig has a botched barrel from the factory. Wtf.
Even the barrel markings are upside down.
Any ideas what Sig did.
Who
brought them into the country
Even the barrel markings are upside down.
Any ideas what Sig did.
Who
brought them into the country
Since my Sig Cross in 6.5Creedmoor is in its 'final form' and since this thread seems fairly dead... thought I might as well contribute something, because hey, one gets bored talking uselessly about Bill C-21 blah blah blah... not like anything we have to say about it will make the slightest difference to those politicians with agendas.
So here's mine. UTG two-part bipod made for M-LOK is mounted far forward, can tilt forward of backward to 45 degrees or tuck right in parallel to the rail, making for a nice flat bottom to rest on a pack or whatever. I swapped the very long supplied sunshade for a 'killflash' as I find them about equal for eliminating sun glare, with the honeycomb being superior for keeping the scope shorter, as well as putting less stretch on the supplied bikini cover so it may last longer before the rubber snaps. Scope is a Vortex Venom FFP 5-25x. Heavy, but I figured the rifle is so light, may as well go heavy on a scope I like.
Here's that bipod up close. Pulling firmly on the upper collars releases each leg for swinging along the slotted plates, the locking lug dropping into any of the 5 slots when the collar is released.
And here's the bipod extended forward, legs fully extended as well.
I've only had one opportunity to take it out and send 15 rounds so far. Life's busy, especially now with the cancer thing going on... but I managed to get it on paper at shot #9, and considering I was shooting off a cheap Caldwell bipod balancing on a bouncy pack, wasn't too unhappy with how it stayed on paper for the remaining shots. If not sooner, I've got a promise from a friend to head out past Squamish to a spot he knows with at least 300 yards where we can get a few rifles dialed in properly. As a lot of owners of this model say the cheap 140gr S&B stuff shoots well, that's mostly what I'm stocked up on, more of the FMJ stuff then 100 rounds of lead soft nose at the same velocity and weight. Supposedly gives about 2455fps at the muzzle according to a couple of guys in the snipershide.com forum, with the Canadian length barrel.
So here's mine. UTG two-part bipod made for M-LOK is mounted far forward, can tilt forward of backward to 45 degrees or tuck right in parallel to the rail, making for a nice flat bottom to rest on a pack or whatever. I swapped the very long supplied sunshade for a 'killflash' as I find them about equal for eliminating sun glare, with the honeycomb being superior for keeping the scope shorter, as well as putting less stretch on the supplied bikini cover so it may last longer before the rubber snaps. Scope is a Vortex Venom FFP 5-25x. Heavy, but I figured the rifle is so light, may as well go heavy on a scope I like.
Here's that bipod up close. Pulling firmly on the upper collars releases each leg for swinging along the slotted plates, the locking lug dropping into any of the 5 slots when the collar is released.
And here's the bipod extended forward, legs fully extended as well.
I've only had one opportunity to take it out and send 15 rounds so far. Life's busy, especially now with the cancer thing going on... but I managed to get it on paper at shot #9, and considering I was shooting off a cheap Caldwell bipod balancing on a bouncy pack, wasn't too unhappy with how it stayed on paper for the remaining shots. If not sooner, I've got a promise from a friend to head out past Squamish to a spot he knows with at least 300 yards where we can get a few rifles dialed in properly. As a lot of owners of this model say the cheap 140gr S&B stuff shoots well, that's mostly what I'm stocked up on, more of the FMJ stuff then 100 rounds of lead soft nose at the same velocity and weight. Supposedly gives about 2455fps at the muzzle according to a couple of guys in the snipershide.com forum, with the Canadian length barrel.
Since my Sig Cross in 6.5Creedmoor is in its 'final form' and since this thread seems fairly dead... thought I might as well contribute something, because hey, one gets bored talking uselessly about Bill C-21 blah blah blah... not like anything we have to say about it will make the slightest difference to those politicians with agendas.
So here's mine. UTG two-part bipod made for M-LOK is mounted far forward, can tilt forward of backward to 45 degrees or tuck right in parallel to the rail, making for a nice flat bottom to rest on a pack or whatever. I swapped the very long supplied sunshade for a 'killflash' as I find them about equal for eliminating sun glare, with the honeycomb being superior for keeping the scope shorter, as well as putting less stretch on the supplied bikini cover so it may last longer before the rubber snaps. Scope is a Vortex Venom FFP 5-25x. Heavy, but I figured the rifle is so light, may as well go heavy on a scope I like.
Here's that bipod up close. Pulling firmly on the upper collars releases each leg for swinging along the slotted plates, the locking lug dropping into any of the 5 slots when the collar is released.
And here's the bipod extended forward, legs fully extended as well.
I've only had one opportunity to take it out and send 15 rounds so far. Life's busy, especially now with the cancer thing going on... but I managed to get it on paper at shot #9, and considering I was shooting off a cheap Caldwell bipod balancing on a bouncy pack, wasn't too unhappy with how it stayed on paper for the remaining shots. If not sooner, I've got a promise from a friend to head out past Squamish to a spot he knows with at least 300 yards where we can get a few rifles dialed in properly. As a lot of owners of this model say the cheap 140gr S&B stuff shoots well, that's mostly what I'm stocked up on, more of the FMJ stuff then 100 rounds of lead soft nose at the same velocity and weight. Supposedly gives about 2455fps at the muzzle according to a couple of guys in the snipershide.com forum, with the Canadian length barrel.
Where did you get the killflash/ARD? Is it one of the Tenebraex ones?
It was an eBay find from a Chinese seller. The listing is gone now. The ad said 'fits 56mm lens scope' so as I've done a few times before, I rolled the dice, paid about $20, and waited a couple of months for it to get here. As happens more often than not it didn't fit. Thread OD was 0.6mm too large. So I mounted it carefully in my tiny TAIG lathe and started cutting it down, chasing the threads with a feather edge file, carving those threads 2/3 of the way down, re-cutting them with the file... painfully slow stuff, but gradually got it to where it needed to be to fit the Vortex threads just nicely. Not a chore I'd recommend to anyone with only hand tools - my lathe can't do threads on its own. A proper lathe and a person with skills to make threaded aluminum parts could of course work very nicely. Here's the result:
As you can probably see, the wall thickness inside the threads is not much. But it's still strong enough that I can crank it on reasonably tightly and it doesn't just sheer off in my hand, so good enough. I'll only be taking it off once in a while to clean the objective, and I don't torque it on all that hard because there's no need.
It was an eBay find from a Chinese seller. The listing is gone now. The ad said 'fits 56mm lens scope' so as I've done a few times before, I rolled the dice, paid about $20, and waited a couple of months for it to get here. As happens more often than not it didn't fit. Thread OD was 0.6mm too large. So I mounted it carefully in my tiny TAIG lathe and started cutting it down, chasing the threads with a feather edge file, carving those threads 2/3 of the way down, re-cutting them with the file... painfully slow stuff, but gradually got it to where it needed to be to fit the Vortex threads just nicely. Not a chore I'd recommend to anyone with only hand tools - my lathe can't do threads on its own. A proper lathe and a person with skills to make threaded aluminum parts could of course work very nicely. Here's the result:
As you can probably see, the wall thickness inside the threads is not much. But it's still strong enough that I can crank it on reasonably tightly and it doesn't just sheer off in my hand, so good enough. I'll only be taking it off once in a while to clean the objective, and I don't torque it on all that hard because there's no need.
Thanks for that. Seems like quite a chore, haha. I'll either get a Tenebraex or 3d print one.
Took me about an hour. But hey, got the result I wanted so I'm not annoyed. Wish there was some sort of thread diameter standard between scope manufacturers, but it's more like the old days with bicycles, where hardware could have 'French' threads or metric or Imperial or sometimes 'Italian'... being a mechanic was more complicated back then.
