Stuck LIVE 7mm cartridge -- FIXED, pics

The Kurgan

The Kurgan

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For the first time in my shooting life that I did this...

A neck sized only casing ended up in my pile of full length resized brass! That casing belonged to my 7mm Mauser Brno model 21, not my Ruger M77 Tang Safety 7x57! I am normally super careful, but alas I got caught.

It was reloaded with the rest of the full length resized brass and the reload got stuck in the chamber of my Ruger. Thankfully, I was able to muscle open the bolt and remove it with no damage done. So, no firing pin to worry about.

I am assuming penetrating oil is a must?
Perhaps the barrel needs to come off?

Any local Smith willing to help in the Hamilton-GTA area?

Thanks.
 
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Just doing a bit of research, it looks like I'm fooked. I guess the barrel needs to be carefully removed, and if I'm lucky the case may be pryed out with a special tool.

This will prove to be an expensive lesson.
 
I'm interested to see what the more experienced guys have to say about this. I've seen this sort of thing pushed out with grease, but that requires special fittings and is so very messy.
 
If you could muscle the bolt closed you could fire it...

I have safely removed many live rounds over the years.

I make a flat ended rod close to bore size wrapped withe tape to protect the rifling but loose in the bore. clamp the barrelled action firmly in a padded vice. Have the rod length about two inches out when contacting the bullet.

Stuff a small rag in the action to prevent the case from coming back and hitting an ejector or anything...

Then smack the rod with a 2 pound hammer until the case pops out...

The rod must be wrapped with tape to prevent harming the rifling but still loose in the barrel.

You can apply penetrating oil from both ends and let sit over night... it may help.

Now I am sure there are many who will say this is a dangerous procedure. Well don't stand in front of the barrel or behind the action...

I have done this successfully many times in 50 years. The stuck case has never fired. I have a very heavy bench and bench vice. That is important.

If you don't feel comfortable doing this, don't do it. Take it to a gunsmith.

It is considerably easier to drill out the bullet (drilling inside a removable bushing) - slowly and then let the powder out the muzzle... this require precision... then drive the case out.
 
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I have successfully used the hydraulic method. Effecitive - but messy.
Make a plunger that just fits the bore at the muzzle. I turn them from brass.
Fill the bore with oil.
Start the plunger into the bore.
Strike the head of the plunger with a hammer.
At the very least, the bullet will be forced into the case, flooding the powder with oil.
If this happens, add more oil, strike the plunger again.
There will be a gush of oil when the cartridge is forced out by the hydraulic pressure. Messy.

I have had excellent results using this method.
Obviously, the barreled action is removed from the stock.
 
Feeling a bit deflated as it seems that casing is in there tight and I don't want to damage the rifling as it's mint a great shooter.

The grease method is that reliable? Are you in the GTA?
 
OP - your problem is really not all that serious. It can be remedied without any harm to the rifle.

If you want to try the hydraulic method, PM your address and I'll make you a brass plunger. I have a 7mm rifle, so can size it for a close fit.
 
Were you able to fully close the bolt? If so, why not just fire the cartridge as normal. After the firing it should come out as fire formed
 
Unfortunately, I tried but could not get it to close. About 1-2mm of casing protruding from the chamber face. I am tempted to tap it into the chamber with a wood dowel, but there's risk it will detonate the primer.
 
guntech said:
If you could muscle the bolt closed you could fire it...

I have safely removed many live rounds over the years.

I make a flat ended rod close to bore size wrapped withe tape to protect the rifling but loose in the bore. clamp the barrelled action firmly in a padded vice. Have the rod length about two inches out when contacting the bullet.

Stuff a small rag in the action to prevent the case from coming back and hitting an ejector or anything...

Then smack the rod with a 2 pound hammer until the case pops out...

The rod must be wrapped with tape to prevent harming the rifling but still loose in the barrel.

You can apply penetrating oil from both ends and let sit over night... it may help.

Now I am sure there are many who will say this is a dangerous procedure. Well don't stand in front of the barrel or behind the action...

I have done this successfully many times in 50 years. The stuck case has never fired. I have a very heavy bench and bench vice. That is important.

If you don't feel comfortable doing this, don't do it. Take it to a gunsmith.

It is considerably easier to drill out the bullet (drilling inside a removable bushing) - slowly and then let the powder out the muzzle... this require precision... then drive the case out.
Click to expand...

This....don't monkey about with the primer end. I've used (and ruined) a brass cleaning rod, but I accepted the loss as a learning experience.
 
guntech said:
If you could muscle the bolt closed you could fire it...

I have safely removed many live rounds over the years.

I make a flat ended rod close to bore size wrapped withe tape to protect the rifling but loose in the bore. clamp the barrelled action firmly in a padded vice. Have the rod length about two inches out when contacting the bullet.

Stuff a small rag in the action to prevent the case from coming back and hitting an ejector or anything...

Then smack the rod with a 2 pound hammer until the case pops out...

The rod must be wrapped with tape to prevent harming the rifling but still loose in the barrel.

You can apply penetrating oil from both ends and let sit over night... it may help.

Now I am sure there are many who will say this is a dangerous procedure. Well don't stand in front of the barrel or behind the action...

I have done this successfully many times in 50 years. The stuck case has never fired. I have a very heavy bench and bench vice. That is important.

If you don't feel comfortable doing this, don't do it. Take it to a gunsmith.

It is considerably easier to drill out the bullet (drilling inside a removable bushing) - slowly and then let the powder out the muzzle... this require precision... then drive the case out.
Click to expand...

You have a 20+ inch, 6mm drill bit?
 
Well - There is little risk that you will detonate the primer. Its the same as depriming a live primer. You've got a taper lock going on. Get some penetrating oil in there and tap it with a wood dowel or metal cleaning rod without a jag.
 
IF the rifle has a muzzle brake, you could remove the brake, then make a threaded cap to fit. The cap will need a grease nipple. Then fill the barrel with water, attach grease gun and start pumping. The case will be easily and smoothly pushed out of the chamber with no fuss. As liquids are not compressible, there is not even a spray of anything once the case comes loose.

Yea, I get that the above requires a lathe or someone who can make the part for you.

This is one of those things where you make the parts to solve the problem and then ever have that problem again.
 
I Dont Care About You said:
You have a 20+ inch, 6mm drill bit?
Click to expand...

silver solder a regular 4" long 6mm bit to a 20" piece of 1/4" drill rod. turn the end of the bit to make a 4mm spigot and drill into the drill rod with a 4mm drill then get make a jig to hold them straight and solder solder away. you want it slightly loose to allow room for silver solder, or you can make a sweat fit/ tap fit then drill a small hole through the side and spot solder it in the hole

if the bore was bigger you could use setscrews to sold the drill bit in the extension rod

here are some pics but they are bigger then the 6mm drill talked a about but same idea, this is a 22mm reamer extended 36" with a piece of 3/4" hot roll 1018
37012039983_7cc8439ec2_z.jpg

37683196751_9ac54d308c_z.jpg

37650486282_db2d186b46_z.jpg




I Dont Care About You said:
IF the rifle has a muzzle brake, you could remove the brake, then make a threaded cap to fit. The cap will need a grease nipple. Then fill the barrel with water, attach grease gun and start pumping. The case will be easily and smoothly pushed out of the chamber with no fuss. As liquids are not compressible, there is not even a spray of anything once the case comes loose.

Yea, I get that the above requires a lathe or someone who can make the part for you.

This is one of those things where you make the parts to solve the problem and then ever have that problem again.
Click to expand...

that is an awesome idea if the barrel is threaded. nice thinking
 
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cosmic said:
Well - There is little risk that you will detonate the primer. Its the same as depriming a live primer. You've got a taper lock going on. Get some penetrating oil in there and tap it with a wood dowel or metal cleaning rod without a jag.
Click to expand...

Wood dowel is a BAD idea. Wood can split and wedge itself in the bore. I've seen a guy do it and they try to push the parts out with a metal cleaning rod, which also became stuck. In the end he had destroyed the barrel of a gun that would have cost more to rebarrel than to just buy a new rifle.
 
I Dont Care About You said:
Wood dowel is a BAD idea. Wood can split and wedge itself in the bore. I've seen a guy do it and they try to push the parts out with a metal cleaning rod, which also became stuck. In the end he had destroyed the barrel of a gun that would have cost more to rebarrel than to just buy a new rifle.
Click to expand...

A wood dowel is worse than a bad idea...
 
I Dont Care About You said:
Wood dowel is a BAD idea. Wood can split and wedge itself in the bore. I've seen a guy do it and they try to push the parts out with a metal cleaning rod, which also became stuck. In the end he had destroyed the barrel of a gun that would have cost more to rebarrel than to just buy a new rifle.
Click to expand...

It worked for me. I took a RN flat base bullet that was slightly less than bore diameter, inserted it nose down into the muzzle and used a wooden dowel to tap it out. I should have been more specific in my original post.... FWIW It shouldnt take much impact to release the taper lock.
 
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