Tikka receiver

mardig88

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Hey there

Does anyone know if there’s anywhere in Canada we can find Tikka receiver only for a PRS build ?
Interested in the Stainless receiver with fluted stainless bolt. I saw them sold in the states but couldn’t find anything in Canada
 
I looked around a few months ago thinking I would make my own Tikka 7PRC after they didn’t announce one at shotshow. I couldn’t find anything. The pricing on them at that place in the states doesn’t make a lot of sense if I remember correctly. You could just buy a complete rifle and sell the stock/barrel and be into it for less $. That’s what I was going to do before deciding on a different route.
 
Hey there

Does anyone know if there’s anywhere in Canada we can find Tikka receiver only for a PRS build ?
Interested in the Stainless receiver with fluted stainless bolt. I saw them sold in the states but couldn’t find anything in Canada

Sadly no,

You’re going to have to buy the whole gun and sell parts off. The fluted bolt can be a pain to come by as it’s usually the special models that have it.

Unless someone happens to be selling just an action and bolt.

That said if you start with a stainless lite allot of smiths won’t try to remove the barrel cause it’s a pain. I’d recommend getting a varmint or something then it’s easier to get the barrel lee and someone like me will buy it off you.

Mags, stock and barrel are all worth money if you don’t mind waiting on a sale.

Otherwise hope someone’s selling one. Much easier for right handed folks than lefties.

B
 
I would not push for stainless when I look for t3 actions. Mostly come across unwanted cal like 6.5x55 or shot out 25-06/243. That is in Ireland however. Got a blued 25-06 two weeks ago which might get a carbon barrel but not sure which cal yet.
edi
 
I see multiple ads of people looking for barrels or other tikka parts on the regular. I personally am looking for a varmint profile barrel in .308 an I believe I saw an ad for someone looking for a 6.5cm so I mean thats your barrel sold right off the back for a couple hundred dollars. Then a hundred bucks + for the stock either lite or CTR/varmint price can change, another for the magazine and some cash for the bottom metal. You could probably get the action said and done for 400 to 500 depending on how much you pay originally and how much everything sells for which is allot cheaper then a custom build.

An I truly enjoy my Tikka Switch Barrel projects so next on my list is a Lefty in 223 then I have all three bolt faces and two actions.

B
 
Hey there

Does anyone know if there’s anywhere in Canada we can find Tikka receiver only for a PRS build ?
Interested in the Stainless receiver with fluted stainless bolt. I saw them sold in the states but couldn’t find anything in Canada

No ! I don’t believe there is ! Never have seen any EVER . RJ
 
I went through the same process for a couple Tikka builds I did. Was getting a 222 and 243 built and looking for actions. Looked at JA Outdoors in the US that sells the actions and they are more money than a complete gun in Canada.
The fluted bolt they want $469 US for when I can send the bolt to Paul at PR Precision and for $165 get that done
For the 222 I bought a new 223 and had the barrel taken off and a new IBI barrel put on. Wanted a 1:12 twist instead of the standard 1:14. Plus had the bolt fluted.
For the 243, bought a used 243, had the barrel changed to a KS Arms 1:8 instead of the 1:10. Bolt was fluted by Paul also.
The guys are right about lots of great actions out there but for what I wanted to do, make some specific hunting rifles, the Tikka action was fine.
Find a good used one and you are away to the races.
 
Thanks for the feedback
I’ll need to decide whether I stick to tikka action and debarrel or start with a custom action and build it from there
 
Mine guy…

I have a 243 varmint. Mdt chassis, PRS Bbuttstock, but I f*** hate the 1:10 barrel.

I was about to change for a IBI in 6.5 creed. You just picked my curiosity. Maybe I should just rebarrel in 243…

Wanting to begin PRS this year. Would you keep going in 243 or change for the 6,5??? I’d save quite $$ in brass/dies/gauges etc.

Thanks
 
And…
I’m your opinion, with the right barrel, will the action choice have a lot of impact down range?? Having a Tikka or savage action, vs an entry level custom action??

Thanks
 
Depends on the feature set you want. Savage are garbage and are prone to many issues. Tikka would be the best option for a factory action build. A nucleus or origin is better than those you listed for an "entry level" choice. I personally like the 700 footprint, control round feed and mechanical ejection. I have a collection of barrels and like that I can quickly change bolt heads. I'm building a 22br on a tikka action to try it out, but I still prefer my customs with triggertech diamonds
 
Mine guy…

I have a 243 varmint. Mdt chassis, PRS Bbuttstock, but I f*** hate the 1:10 barrel.

I was about to change for a IBI in 6.5 creed. You just picked my curiosity. Maybe I should just rebarrel in 243…

Wanting to begin PRS this year. Would you keep going in 243 or change for the 6,5??? I’d save quite $$ in brass/dies/gauges etc.

Thanks

I agree on the 1:10 twist. I like the 243 and wanted to up the bullet size a bit. At the time it was suggested to go with 6BR but with 243 I can find stock ammo if I get lazy. Have done 2 243 with the 1:8 twist and it shoots very well.
Do not do PRS so others will be better able to comment on that but I do not see why a bit heaver bullet in a 243 would not be competitive. It comes down to lots of shooting in any caliber you choose.
The Tikka action is pretty solid and a good entry platform. If you find PRS is not for you then the rifle is still good for hunting.
 
For most prs events a 243 shooting 105s or heavier will be better than a 6.5 creedmoor. Less recoil, easier to stay on target and spot hits, misses.
But it will be harder on barrels than a 6.5 creed.
Joe
 
Last edited:
And…
I’m your opinion, with the right barrel, will the action choice have a lot of impact down range?? Having a Tikka or savage action, vs an entry level custom action??

Thanks

An action has very little role in accuracy WHEN the actions are built and functioning properly... ie nothing broken, bent, gouged, sticky, rusty, mismanf, etc... for the needs of games like PRS.

an actions role include feeding/extraction, initiating and containing the Kaboom. Lock up for all modern actions is similar and can offer similar benefits (poor QC and machining not withstanding)

About the biggest reason to pick action a over b is the trigger. many factory actions don't have super light triggers.. if that is what you want. many factory actions don't have the selection of accessories and add ons... if that is what you want.

I have competed with factory Savage SA's at the highest levels of F class for years (also, had a very nice high end custom). Compared to the high end custom actions, no difference on target or score. And the Savage functioned in some nasty, dirty conditions that fouled up a few tight fit actions.

Today, I run Rem 783s and factory trigger. For PRS, I don't mind a heavier pull. With a quality match barrel and handloads, it shoots as well as any custom rig I could build. And runs smooth and fast. The design and dimensions are also different from the typical 700 and offers me addn benefits which I quite enjoy.

The history of 'custom' actions starts with really crappy QC from Rem when building the 700s. So much was wrong and needed fixing, the cost of fixing got you close to what a true custom back then costs. So the custom was the 'easy answer'... today, we not only have well manufactured custom actions, aesthetics have really improved....

At the same time, many factory manfs have adopted better forms of manf which brings the QC within the realm of custom stuff.... but some TLC certainly doesn't hurt depending on the brand and type you choose.

I know the modern shooters love to chat up 'grades' of actions... as if, a more expensive type can lead to better performance. As long as they are built to suit the same games/end uses, their performance will be near identical in the long run.

Actions designed to excell in a pure accuracy game, are unlikely to survive in the muck and dirt of field shooting.

Better to think of actions like watches... if the watch tells time consistently and accurately, it serves the intended function... $50 or $5000, doesn't change the end result to the user. However, the user might appreciate the appearance, features or prestige of the more expensive item... and that is entirely ok too.

Barrels, bullets and bedding determine the down range performance of any firearm.

the rest of the machine is typically a compromise to fit within the rules of a game.

Jerry
 
Mine guy…

I have a 243 varmint. Mdt chassis, PRS Bbuttstock, but I f*** hate the 1:10 barrel.

I was about to change for a IBI in 6.5 creed. You just picked my curiosity. Maybe I should just rebarrel in 243…

Wanting to begin PRS this year. Would you keep going in 243 or change for the 6,5??? I’d save quite $$ in brass/dies/gauges etc.

Thanks

Recoil is not your friend in PRS... neither are long OAL of your ammo. I am now running Creedmoor anything as it fits in our gear without fuss and runs without hiccups vs shorter options. Cost and availability of Creedmoor brass is usually one of the best options. 6mm bullets on the other hand can be a royal PITA as the vast majority of shooters want the same options.

I have gone 22 Creedmoor to bypass this supply problem and by downloading pressures and speeds, my bore life is right there with the smaller 6's.

If you want to include Hunter PRS into your set up, then the 6.5 CM is a great option and very popular... but for reg PRS, it is a disadvantage. BTW, one of my all time fave cartridges is the 6.5 CM

If you want to get serious about CF PRS, then whatever barrel you choose will not be on your rifle for long.... so you will have plenty of opportunity to try different set ups.

Jerry
 
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