19 more italian garand rear sight assembly available
- Thread starter godgab
- Start date
anyone got a link to some info that clearly shows re-assembly of the sights..... I had no problem stripping the norc sights off my rifles but.... I have been struggling for days to get my usgi rear sight together.... every other thing with these rifles is a snap for me... but these gawddam sights are somethin else. like the norc ones, I had no problem disassembling the gi sight.... but again... getting her to go back together..... I'm stumped 
They are a little finnicky! I can't even think how to explain it except to say that I put the actual aperture in the block first, pop the unit on with no screws in it, and then fiddle the screws in one at a time (I think starting with elevation, and then doing windage after.) It is definitely a funny job that you do by feel!
google is my friend, here's the best link i've found yet
h ttp://www.civilianmarksmanship.com/assemblyhtml/reassemblerearsight3.html
i got er together in a snap..... BUT when i adjust windage to the left.... as soon as it goes a click past center.... the sight gets all loose and turning the windage knob starts to also turn the elevation knob. I'm practicing on the norc rear sights... I'll get it right and then try my GI ones.
h ttp://www.civilianmarksmanship.com/assemblyhtml/reassemblerearsight3.html
i got er together in a snap..... BUT when i adjust windage to the left.... as soon as it goes a click past center.... the sight gets all loose and turning the windage knob starts to also turn the elevation knob. I'm practicing on the norc rear sights... I'll get it right and then try my GI ones.
There's a flat side to the shaft, and a flat inside the windage knob. You need to line them up to push them fully together. After that, you can thread the captured nut onto the end of the shaft.
My biggest complaint about the sights is that the serrations on my receiver are poorly made. My first Norinco M14 with Norinco sights has very firm elevation notches. My 2007 with Garand sights has very weak clicks for elevation. Almost wasn't worth getting the Garand sight. I'll probably order an elevation wheel from the states. It has fresh serrations, and you epoxy it over the receiver where the old one's were.
My biggest complaint about the sights is that the serrations on my receiver are poorly made. My first Norinco M14 with Norinco sights has very firm elevation notches. My 2007 with Garand sights has very weak clicks for elevation. Almost wasn't worth getting the Garand sight. I'll probably order an elevation wheel from the states. It has fresh serrations, and you epoxy it over the receiver where the old one's were.
The above link shows a technique which is pretty standard. However, there is another method to prevent threading issues, potential thread stripping and just ensure that the bits are properly seated.
Instead of putting the elevation knob through first and threading the elevation knob into the base while ensure the lock nut is proper, try this instead:
-With the base and cover on, push the base to the right side of your receiver(towards the windage) with your hand.
-Slowly thread the windage knob into the base until firmly seated to the end of the range of adjustment. The windage knob should be holding firm and preventing the sight base and cover from moving around at this point
-Insert aperture
-Insert elevation knob+pinion(there will be some manipulation needed usually to align the aperture and elevation teeth. (Don't worry about aligning any lines with the elevation knob, just have the elevation knob screw-the zeroing screw tight on the knob).
-Once elevation knob/pinion gear teeth have meshed with aperture teeth, find the flat of the lock nut and elevation knob spine to mesh them. Use your left hand to hold the elevation knob in gently, use a screwdriver to gently back out on the lock nut until the flats find themselves and fall into place.
-Slowly thread the locknut gently until seated, and then back out say half a turn or a full turn until you can freely turn the elevation for a few clicks
-Back out your elevation to the lowest part of range.
-Tighten the locknut again gently.
-Loosen the nut on the elevation knob. Align the hash lines as your theoretical reference zero for elevation. Tighten nut on elevation knob firmly.
-You may have noticed that your windage is all the way at the right. Loosen the lock nut and back out the windage to center your windage. THIS CAN ALSO BE DONE BEFORE OR AFTER setting your elevation zero.
-Depending on the range you want to zero to, when you want to change your reference zero(remember above is only theoretical since it is at base of adjustment), loosen the screw on the elevation(left) and align your reference line marks accordingly.
-The locknut is the screw to tighten once zero has been established and shooter does not want to adjust and vice versa, where the locknut is the one to loosen(only back out a little obviously) to allow shooter to adjust windage and/or elevation.
The reason for the above rather than the technique on the other site is that the fine threads are easily stripped and hard to manipulate at times, especially with threading the windage into the base while trying to align the locknut (and prevent the elevation from popping out.
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