Anyone know what on the barrel?

So if I took off the "muzzle brake" I'd still be legal. From a quick look on CGN seems shorter then 660mm is prohibited.

If someone 'cut' a factory barrel to less than 18inchs you have an issue, and pinning metal to the end of it changes nothing. The barrel says Remington, so if Remington made it less than 18inchs you would be fine. If its 18inchs from the bolt face to end of the original metal, you will also be fine.
 
Is two lengths that are of concern if you are in Canada - length of the firearm from rear end to the front end, when firearm configured to fire; then, separate is in relation about minimum length of the barrel, that has been altered from the maker - and added devices, etc., in Canada, do not count for length measurement. Seems to have confused many who think USA laws apply here. See CCC 84 (2) - I am not sure about firearm over-all length - 84 (2) seems to be about how to measure barrel length - might be another place in CCC that talks about measuring firearm length.

Some time ago, I formed the impression that a rifle's barrel was measured in Canada from the closed bolt face to the muzzle - so that includes the chamber and perhaps a mm or two of "air space" related to headspace and bolt face clearance to the barrel rear. Those mm or two have turned out to be very important - at least for some revolver barrels - so "how" to measure, "what" to measure - on which firearm, is kind of important to know. And maybe I got the technique wrong. Is some barrels with a recess that the bolt nose goes into - Remington 700 and some Mausers with "safety breech", for examples - so if you were right at 18" (457 mm) measured from the bolt face to muzzle, the actual barrel would measure slightly longer than that. If you cut that barrel exactly 18" (457 mm) from rear end, would measure "too short" when measuring to the muzzle from the bolt face.

There is a 16 1/2" (420 mm) barrel Ruger 77 in 243 Win here - perfectly legal as a non-restricted, because Ruger made it that way. I am not allowed to maintain one as a "non-restricted" if I saw off a similar barrel, that was made at factory at 22", and I cut it down to 16 1/2" (420 mm) - not allowed - it would become "prohibited", I think - and no way to stay as non-restricted by adding anything to it - I did not make those rules - makes about no sense to me. The factory made one with 16 1/2" (420 mm) barrel is okay; identical sawed off and re-crowned by me with 16 1/2" (420 mm) barrel is not okay. Is mostly why the 243 Win barrel that I shortened and lightened for my wife to use was cut and crowned at 19 inches (483 mm).
 
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Another update. Seems that muzzle brake doesn't do much. Fired 1 150 federal blue box. Ouch. Probably doesn't help that it has a steel butt plate and not flat.
Going to try and find a thin slip on recoil pad.
 
Most people thread their barrels for brakes. Why pin it? Maybe to hide something.

To be seen - is possible someone thought pinning would allow it to count for barrel length, whereas threading and therefore removable might not. Does not matter - neither count in Canada, anyways, but a "long shot" possible explanation. Is hard to tell from pictures in Post #1 - is possible that area under that brake has been turned to smaller diameter - suggesting it was BOTH threaded and then pinned.
 
I had a chance to inspect that one yesterday - from closed bolt face to muzzle brake front end is 19.5" - then actual barrel muzzle is 1.35", inside, back from that front edge of the "brake". So that barrel appears to be 18.15" from closed bolt face to crown. However, it appears that might be a home made "brake" - bore hole through the brake was circa twice the diameter of a .308" bullet (I did not measure that) - can see through the slits on the sides - look right through - so, must be cut through at more or less 90 degrees to bore centreline. An acquaintance describes that as recipe for a "loudener", not a brake. About worse found - with flashlight - appears that one "pin's hole" is drilled through into the rifling - do not see the other hole inside that rifling - might be full of crap or might not have been drilled through. That "brake's" body that is "pinned" may also be soldered to the barrel - has what appears to be bead of solder around the "brake's" rear end. We were unable to confirm whether that was threaded or not. As per the OP owner - does not do much at all to reduce felt recoil - we found several reasons why that might be so.

Auction pictures showed the safety "knob" to be round - probably metal - not the angled rectangular plastic original - with the barrelled action removed from the stock, it appears to be an original Rem 788 trigger (identical, except for larger attachment screw, to other right handed one that I have here). Is nice checkering done on wrist and forearm. "Checkered" steel butt plate with "widow's peak" was done fairly well.
 
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