My 300wsm Ruger while not tons of pressure it is a quite snug to close the most of any rifle I've shot, thought for sure something was rong with my reloads but all factory rounds were the same. I use ATF for lube and live with it because it shooting to good to play with, not going to have case head separation that's for sure. A couple thousands more taper on the start of the lugs? Get a hands-on option not us armchair coachs.
Rem 700 very stiff to chamber a round
- Thread starter Fyn
- Start date
If there are scratches, dimples, etc on your extracted brass - there's your culprit. This is a common issue with Remingtons. A gunsmith can polish your chamber up for you and hopefully sort it out.
Also, the ogive on that bullet could be the issue (jamming into the lands). Maybe try a different one if you can see marks on extracted loaded rounds.
If the go/no go gauge is okay, and your chamber is clean, the items above are your most likely culprits I think. Both are know to happen with Remington 700s of "a certain vintage"
Also, the ogive on that bullet could be the issue (jamming into the lands). Maybe try a different one if you can see marks on extracted loaded rounds.
If the go/no go gauge is okay, and your chamber is clean, the items above are your most likely culprits I think. Both are know to happen with Remington 700s of "a certain vintage"
Made up a dummy round and marked it up, couldn't determine any tight spots or unusual wear in the chamber. I appreciate everyone's feedback. Looks to me like it's the extractor, seems to marking the case head up. I noticed if I dropped a piece of brass in the chamber and then gave the bolt a good thrust forward the handle will easily rotate into place, whereas if I load a round smoothly it seems to have trouble camming the extractor over. Did a bit of reading on other forums last night and seems like it's somewhat prevalent on the 223 models.
Anyone have any advice on remedying? New extractor?
Anyone have any advice on remedying? New extractor?
If the extractor is bent, it can interfere with the case head settling back into the bolt face counterbore. When you examine the bolt face, does the extractor hoop protrude? Only the actual hook should be apparent. When you push the hook sideways does it rebound back into position? But that doesn't explain why the bolt closes smoothly on a case but not on a cartridge.
It will be a clip in extractor. Straightforward to change. Don't try to remove the existing extractor unless you have a replacement on hand.
Does the ejector move easily under pressure? A jammed ejector can make it very difficult to close the bolt.
It will be a clip in extractor. Straightforward to change. Don't try to remove the existing extractor unless you have a replacement on hand.
Does the ejector move easily under pressure? A jammed ejector can make it very difficult to close the bolt.
The curve of the extractor must lie in the recessed lip surrounding the bolt face counterbore. If the extractor curve is incorrect, the side of the extractor can foul the case as it attempts to enter the counterbore.
Installing part of the Sako extractor system in a 700 is an absolute terrible thing to do...
Originally the conversion was done to accommodate the PPC case on a 700 action... Why only part of the Sako extractor system was used I don't know. Perhaps the idea that the Sako "bolt guide" was actually a safety device escaped those who pioneered the conversion, or the fact that catastrophic case failures are rather rare.
The problem I have today with those conversions is very few of the owners know what they are getting into... perhaps many of those doing the conversion don't realize it either. I simply wish if you are thinking about having the conversion done you have the facts before hand.
The design of the Model 700 action is superior to any other mass-produced 2 lug bolt action ever made , and that by installing only part of the extractor system from a Sako (2 locking lug action) completely compromises that design. But the alteration is completely unsafe when it happens. We are talking about a catastrophic case failure. They do not occur on a regular basis. (In the US there have been serious injuries and at least one death associated with this conversion).
A Sako extractor is safe in a two lug Sako so why shouldn't it be safe in a two lug Remington? ... Because when people install the Sako extractor in a Remington they do not install the Sako bolt guide, which is the safety design incorporated in the Sako. That bolt guide is there to protect the shooter and anyone close to the shooter if a case fails drastically. I do not understand why anyone would knowingly install only part of the Sako system. If the Sako extractor and the Sako bolt guide were installed then the Remington would be as safe as a Sako. Not as strong and safe as the Remington was before alteration but safe.
Here is a picture of how well the Sako "bolt guide" deflected/prevented debris from exiting down the bolt raceway...
Dennis, I’m well aware of everything you just posted. So here is my question. Why in the world can’t someone fix the problem the OP is having? Because it is a fairly consistent and prevalent problem. It is also interesting to note that no Remington clone uses the original Remington extractor design. Why is that? If only we could find someone in this country that could put a mini M16 extractor in a 223 bolt head.
Good ole Remington. The best action on the planet that doesn’t work right. A head scratcher for sure.
Good ole Remington. The best action on the planet that doesn’t work right. A head scratcher for sure.
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It isn't that common a problem, fairly rare considering the millions produced. It shouldn't be let out of the factory that way but it did.
Most people seem to think you can fix every firearm problem on the internet, when in fact many problems are best served by using a gunsmith... the actual problem needs to be diagnosed before it can be fixed... best done by a hands on inspection... and I believe it could be a 10 minute repair if it is the simple fix of the extractor or bolt nose fit.
Remington partial "clones" do not use the original extractor design perhaps by patent/trademark rights or difficulty/cost in machining. I would not want one of these so called clones compared to the original.
Appreciate everyone's responses. I took a closer look at the bolt face, there seemed to be an excessive amount of brass debris around the extractor. I popped the extractor out and there was some larger brass slivers/shavings accumulated in that recess behind the extractor. After cleaning the area, tweaking and reinstalling the extractor it's chambering with much less effort.
I realize removing and reinstalling the extractor isn't ideal, but it seems to atleast have isolated the concern. It is extracting well currently, I do realize the extractors are generally a one and done affair.
Looks like rivetless 223 extractors don't exactly grow on trees, besides PT&G. I'd be happy to hear if someone is aware of another supplier. I'd also be happy to hear any smith recommendations if things go awry.
I realize removing and reinstalling the extractor isn't ideal, but it seems to atleast have isolated the concern. It is extracting well currently, I do realize the extractors are generally a one and done affair.
Looks like rivetless 223 extractors don't exactly grow on trees, besides PT&G. I'd be happy to hear if someone is aware of another supplier. I'd also be happy to hear any smith recommendations if things go awry.
RJ
