I've never seen helicoils that would fill a hole like that and still have enough depth to hold. It would also require opening up the holes a bit more etc.
Drill + tap failure. Backwoods Outdoors Corbeil Ontario.
- Thread starter Jimbobob08
- Start date
I've never seen helicoils that would fill a hole like that and still have enough depth to hold. It would also require opening up the holes a bit more etc.
This is true. I've used them many many times on different things. but I will admit that an m6 is the smallest I've used. But there is no reason smaller ones would work just as the bigger ones.
Are they available in sizes that small?
Checked the Heli-coil website. They do offer 6-40. Not 6-48.
The holes would have to be drilled out to insert the heli-coil. If that is going to be done, might just as well thread the holes.
Has it even been confirmed that the holes are oversized? If they aren't, just finish tapping them to 6-48 and mount the base properly.
Checked the Heli-coil website. They do offer 6-40. Not 6-48.
The holes would have to be drilled out to insert the heli-coil. If that is going to be done, might just as well thread the holes.
Has it even been confirmed that the holes are oversized? If they aren't, just finish tapping them to 6-48 and mount the base properly.
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No luck finding 6-48 threaded inserts. And installation requires drilling and tapping. If you are going to drill and tap, forget the inserts, just install screws.
Looked at the photo again. The threads just barely start into the holes. First thing to do is to use proper taps and see if the threads can be cut deeper. If so, a solution is at hand.
Looked at the photo again. The threads just barely start into the holes. First thing to do is to use proper taps and see if the threads can be cut deeper. If so, a solution is at hand.
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Jonnyofalltrades
Regular
- Location
- North-central Saskatchewan
Well, actually, I love helicoils. Timeserts are pretty good, too. I use them both regularly.
But I have also drilled and tapped enough holes in barrels(puckering the entire time) to know that it is a bad idea.
I think tiriaq might be right, the holes look like the tap was just started, and no bottoming tap used.
Hard to tell from a picture.
I have a Love/Hate past with Helicoils, having dealt with various inserts down to around the #2 screw size. I still have some of the custom adapters that I had made over the years for feeding Helicoils in to VERY deeply countersunk holes, as well as some of the mandrels I made for easing the misery of repeated installs of same. And I kept a collection of 'dead' 1/4 inch and 3/16 inch carbide end mills (because you can hand grind one on a green wheel and clean out the remains of a bolt well enough, usually)on hand for some of the uglier removals, usually a stainless bolt, in a stainless part, seized in to a stainless Helicoill...
Keen-serts and Time-serts too. And a couple others, that I am thankful I was not paying out of pocket for...
When they work, they are wonderful. When they don't, see the aforementioned grey hair comments!
Mainly, my problem with the Screw Thread Inserts, aka, STI thread Tap sizes, is that if the thud-f##k that screwed up the original thread gets handed the rework job, he or she has about, in my estimation, 75% or better chance of having learned nothing from the failure, and repeating the same crap that made it a garbage job from the outset!
Sometimes the best solution, from a practical point of view, is to weld up the holes and start over. Or solder plugs in, and do same.
When you are trying to fix someone else's screw up, esp., the difference between being a Hero or a Zero, is sometimes just not leaving it as screwed up as it started, so long as it becomes useful! We did that a lot on some parts, that were unobtainable, so as to make it one or two more inspection cycles.
coyoteshooter
CGN Regular
- Location
- Ontario, Canada
based on the amount of lock tite for and aft of the screws this is not the proper base for your rifle....as pointed out before the radius is not correct ....oversize drill for the tap was used AND the screws failed to get very far into the almost non existing threads due to the air space between base and reciever ...who got the base ... look.it up ...just wrong ...big mess BUT it can be fixed by a competent shop NOT the one you went to ...send them the total cost to you don
The holes may be correct, but not tapped completely for the reason suggested by David Henry in post 22. The tap botomed out before reaching full diameter.if this was the case the screws would not go in very far but maybe they didn't, if the base was not the right arc. If the holes are too big use the next size screw
- Location
- WMU247 near Edmonton
that is terrible.
clean it all up, fill in the holes and solder it on, or some sort of epoxy.
clean it all up, fill in the holes and solder it on, or some sort of epoxy.
if I had purchased a firearm with this issue I would clean well and carefully tig weld the hole up, clean the outside diameter as necessary and re drill and tap the holes, not a hard job but takes time, done this type of work lots but would never attempt for third parts just in case.
first thing I would try is measure hole size, then if the hole is right try a bottoming tap and see if the threads will go deeper, if the threads are oversize and the screw tries to go in, I have squashed threads a little to tighten them up, not a ideal fix but it works and finally drill and tap to the next size up
first thing I would try is measure hole size, then if the hole is right try a bottoming tap and see if the threads will go deeper, if the threads are oversize and the screw tries to go in, I have squashed threads a little to tighten them up, not a ideal fix but it works and finally drill and tap to the next size up
I supplied it. Direct order from skinner. Still have the receipt, under description says Rossi 92 scope mount. I also have a dr Pearson mount, which the smith knew about, we had a conversation about it. If there was an issue with the skinner mount, which I doubt, he should have stopped immediately and called.
Just curious about the TIG welding...
I'm assuming that you have your own TIG welder.
Do you fill the hole completely with weld? Put in a plug and weld over that for a cosmetic repair? When you drill and tap new holes, do you relocate the base so that the new holes are into previously untouched barrel?
I find it interesting that you have done this sort of thing lots and describe it as not being a hard job.
- Location
- Blaster land, Okanagan BC
It’s easy to reprofile a base to match a barrel radius, I had to change these in order to silver solder them on a short shotgun barrel.
