Cooey 12g 840 model help

BrownR said:
Does anyone know whether I should let the evaporust get inside the barrel ? Or should I just close it off with some corks before submerging it ?? I want to strip everything off it before rebluing it. If I had something to lay the 30” barrel in I would try to hot blue it, instead of cold bluing like I’d end up doing
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I would plug the barrel. Naval Jelly is another solution if you’re worried about affecting the bore, easier to keep it out of the barrel.

Since you want to use this as a project and opportunity to learn, you may want to look into rust bluing. It will give a much more durable finish and can be done with without investing a lot in equipment.
 
Leg said:
I would plug the barrel. Naval Jelly is another solution if you’re worried about affecting the bore, easier to keep it out of the barrel.

Since you want to use this as a project and opportunity to learn, you may want to look into rust bluing. It will give a much more durable finish and can be done with without investing a lot in equipment.
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What’s naval jelly ? sounds like something you’d need for a dry nose lol

Yep I planned to get one of those cold bluing kits by birch wood. I’ve also been pondering the idea of the few small pieces done in a old pot for hot bluing..??? But not sure about that yet as I’ve seen a few different methods and still not quite sure lol. I have some corks to plug the barrel with, just have to hammer them in gently with a mallet, and then use a cork screw to remove them
 
I wouldn’t soak the bore unless it’s totally pitted to hell, then I wouldn’t have bought the gun in the first place. I’ve used Evaporust on some rusty tools before and they cam out clean of rust but had no finish left on them, so not entirely sure what it would do to an otherwise shiny barrel. I suspect it would come out matte and not shiny but your guess is as good as mine, I’d just Chuck it in my lathe and hit it with some wet/dry and oil while it spins. Or put it in a padded vise and use strips of paper like I was using a shoe shine rag, would go quick.
 
kjohn said:
Give him a reasonable amount, considering the condition, and use it to hone your skills. You might be surprised how it turns out. If nothing else, you will have tried...
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I agree. While every cent that you spend on it might not be recovered (monetarily), you'll learn some of what works and some of what doesn't work.

For example, this might be a project for a bead blast, rather than a high polish, and for a concealing paint (like Aluma Hyde), rather than a hot blue.

How to paint your firearm using Brownells Aluma-Hyde II
<https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DiaylTw175s>
 
Butcherbill said:
I wouldn’t soak the bore unless it’s totally pitted to hell, then I wouldn’t have bought the gun in the first place. I’ve used Evaporust on some rusty tools before and they cam out clean of rust but had no finish left on them, so not entirely sure what it would do to an otherwise shiny barrel. I suspect it would come out matte and not shiny but your guess is as good as mine, I’d just Chuck it in my lathe and hit it with some wet/dry and oil while it spins. Or put it in a padded vise and use strips of paper like I was using a shoe shine rag, would go quick.
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Well I’m thinking I’ll just smack the corks in each end, and then the barrel sit in solution, and hope it don’t leak inside lol. I mean they keep wine from leaking out and etc lol. So it should keep evaporust out right ? �� also wouldn’t take so long with strips of paper your right. I just don’t think I have paper like that for strips. All my stuff is for my orbital sander lol oh and there isn’t much for pitting. Mostly just rust on the top. The action cover is what’s really rusty will go in the solution to strip it. Hmm maybe I should do the barrel by hand ?
 
BrownR said:
Well I’m thinking I’ll just smack the corks in each end, and then the barrel sit in solution, and hope it don’t leak inside lol. I mean they keep wine from leaking out and etc lol. So it should keep evaporust out right ? �� also wouldn’t take so long with strips of paper your right. I just don’t think I have paper like that for strips. All my stuff is for my orbital sander lol oh and there isn’t much for pitting. Mostly just rust on the top. The action cover is what’s really rusty will go in the solution to strip it. Hmm maybe I should do the barrel by hand ?
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They sell regular and wet dry sandpaper by the sheet at most hardware or automotive parts stores, last one I did I picked up loose 8.5”x11” sheets of 150, 180 & 220 and made my own strips. Easy and cheap, didn’t even bother with wet dry paper. Used wd40 as my oil lube when I block sanded the receiver or spun the mag tube in my lathe, barrel was done in a vise. File and block sanding the receiver was the most time consuming part, barrel and mag tube were quick.
 
You’ll probably be fine with 220gr it you’re just getting rid of surface rust and bluing, I only needed the coarser grits to try to get rid of pitting which I couldn’t fully remove.

I wouldn’t bother going finer than 400 unless there is no pitting to deal with and your sending it out to be professionally blued, steel wool/oil it and then hit it with 220 and cold blue it.
 
I don’t think there is any pitting, maybe there is lol I’ll have to look again. I also believe the bluing kit in wanting to pick up has blueing finish remover included. That would be done easier then lots of sanding lol
 
BrownR said:
I don’t think there is any pitting, maybe there is lol I’ll have to look again. I also believe the bluing kit in wanting to pick up has blueing finish remover included. That would be done easier then lots of sanding lol
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If you say so, if there’s no exterior pitting on the barrel just steel wool it. Oil and steel wool will remove surface rust quick, you could be done with the barrel by now if that’s the case.
 
Butcherbill said:
If you say so, if there’s no exterior pitting on the barrel just steel wool it. Oil and steel wool will remove surface rust quick, you could be done with the barrel by now if that’s the case.
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OP is ignoring all advise being given on 11 pages.

IMO, he is just trolling...
 
Well I’ve got it all apart right now and have some parts soaking. All though could someone confirm if the pic here looks right then or is this piece bent from abuse ? Also these two screws have seen better days. So glad I got them out out lol, where can I get a replacement for them ? The smaller one is the trigger guard. The other is for the firing pin it goes in the side of the action/case



 
jethunter said:
No, it won't hurt the bore.
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What I read on the can of it here - Evaporust works on a chelation principle - only goes after rust, not clean metal. Not sure, but true, real bluing is rust - so is possible the stuff might clean off "bluing" as well - not sure about "cold bluing" - different stuff - is not "rust", usually. I never tried it in a bore, but did clean up a couple rigging shackles with it - seemed to get the rust, as advertised.
 
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